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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Are the front control arm bolts suppose to be splined into the frame of the car??

If so my splines are stripped by the chevy dealer and I need to now how to fix them.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
You can try new bolts but usually the hole in the frame is opened up as well.
I have used two methods to get around it.
The better way is to weld small bosses on the crossmember right beside the bolt heads to stop the bolts from turning.
The other way , easier but not as "correct"
tack weld little tabs or ears on the heads of the bolts to stop rotation.
If you are just trying to align the car you can hold the heads with a flex socket and long extention. The alignment guy won't be pleased. Gerry
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I got the alignment pretty close by eye, then had my wife hold a rachet with a long extension.

I spoke with the chevy service manager, and he wasn't familiar with the splined bolts, so he didn't really know what I was talking about. He said I could bring it back, and he would look at it. But that won't fix the ruined splines in the frame.

not to mention the truck lid is all scrathed up, and he said he would buff that out. good thing I am not a postal worker
:mad:
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've been thinking on how I could fix this. Maybe they could cut a keyway in the frame, and weld a key onto the bolts......
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
LarrySS, as long as nuts are torqued to spec, just add second nut on each bolt & you won't have any problems. Main purpose for splines is to make it easier for alignment guy to just loosen nut without having to hold bolt from turning. On some cars, taking off Upper Control Arms entails removing one or both bolts for clearance issues. Your Dealer used an Air Gun to remove these bolt/s thereby stripping the splines in frame. When I remove mine I use a small C clamp to press them out. Thats the big advantage of wrenching on the car yourself if your not in a hurry. THE JOB GETS DONE THE RIGHT WAY! +=+Larry '96 9C1 P.S. Most everything is Rush Rush Rush nowadays.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
TO ADD DETAILS ON PRESS OUT BOLT REMOVAL....A socket is used over bolt, clamp end is placed on treaded end(of bolt) & screw end of clamp is placed on socket. When C Clamp is tightened, bolt is drawn into socket.Easy! +=+Larry '96 9C1 ;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
>>LarrySS, as long as nuts are torqued to spec, just add second nut on each bolt & you won't have any problems.<<<
<<<

I still don't see how adding a 2nd nut is going to do anything at all. It won't help the alignment guy who is trying to tighten and loosen the nut.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Larry, your absolutely correct. Your align guy will have to endure a little extra work(probaly have to enlist a helper) to hold bolt while he loosens nut to access shims. The "back up nut" suggestion is for your peace of mind. i.e.-shaft bolts will not get loose while your having fun driving! +=+Larry '96 9C1
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Larry, just wondering? Do you remember, Old Beach Boys tune: Fun Fun Fun, Till Your Daddy Took The TBird Away. Smile, you can live with this. Reallity Check;
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm thinking I may have the offending dealer weld flat steel connecting the 2 bolts. This way they won't spin during an alignment, and you can still remove them.

The bolts have a pan head, so you can't really weld a boss to the frame.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
By pan head, do you mean that the head of the bolt is rounded like a carriage bolt? If so, and if I recall correctly, the bolts are not supposed be rounded like that. Maybe instead of stripped splines you just got the wrong unsplined bolts.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I explained it wrong. It's a hex head bolt, but the base of the head of the bolt has a pan bottom that sits against the frame. So it's really a combination of hex/pan if you understand what I'm trying to explain.

I wish I could explain it better.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Larry SS:The bolts have a pan head, so you can't really weld a boss to the frame.[/QB]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Do you mean there is a little flange under the head? I am going to take a closer look at mine . Many times there is a captured washer that gets in the way. If the bolts are actually flanged you would just need to relieve it at one flat if you want to weld a stop on the crossmember. Personally I would have the dealer supply four new bolts.
You could tack weld a small tab on each and put them in yourself with green loctite.
Regards. Gerry
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes there is a flange on the base of the bolt head. that is a good idea to grind away one flange, and then weld a stop.

although if he welds a flat bar accross the 2 bolt heads, that is less permanent.....

However the service manange has NO clue as too what I am talking about. His answer was they use impact guns all the time !
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
LarrySS,
I am living with the same thing. Not a problem, just use an extension and a socket on the opposite side and it is a one-man-job. My car is lowered slightly, so that makes it a little bit of a tight reach to get the socket on initally, but doable. Once you get the nut fairly tight, you can tighten it to spec without having to hold the bolt. Your alignment guy will probably cuss the first time he encounters this. I strongly urge that you watch him do it right!
The bolt is a 1/2-13 x 2.5" flange head. Grade 8. There are splines right below the head on the shaft. Use only the correct GM part, 10262655. BTW, one of the replacemets I bought had the splines too far away front the bolt head to contact the sides of the hole in the bracket! That's quality.
Also, not all of the bolts that I replaced "bit" into the holes even though I pressed the old ones out.
Tim
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Crazzy LarrySS,,,You're pushing this issue like your aligning Front End every time you change oil. Relax and find competent & patient Aligner. Be honest & up front. Tell him some incompetent a$$hole stripped splines in frame and for him to give you tender loving care. GOOD LUCK. I'm outta here! +=+Larry '96 9C1
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm just pissed this even happenend. There are also scratches in my truck lid that he said he would take care off. Every scratch on my car was done by a chevy dealer!

It gets to a point where the BS got to stop. This well be the last time this chevy dealer sees me. I was going to buy a suburban for wifey, but now it'll be a GMC yukon.

I'll let you know how the dealer handles it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
took the car back to the dealer, he got a new bolt from the parts dept, and the "splines" are 1/8" long. He refused to believe that would prevent the bolt from turning. He said that holds the bolt in position. This was the service manager. So I give up dealing with these morons. I'll get new bolts and locktite them in myself.

now I'm still working on getting the scrathes fixed from the dealer.
 
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