[Guest]

Well I got my F-bar and all the bolts, brackets, etc.. from Dal about a week ago and now my wife would like the F-bar out of the livingroom before Christmas so it looks like I'll just have to install it!

Before I begin I do have a question or two (since my FSM is on backorder)...

-Is an alignment necessary after the F-bar install??

-Are there any tips or tricks I should know? (I am already aware of the stripping bolt issue and got new bolts and the larger brackets)

-How long should it take (I have a garage, jackstands, and am reasonably competent with a wrench.

ThankSS for entertaining these questions.

Chris Mallory - '96 DCM - SSRI, !MAF screen, 3.73's, HPPIII, 160 T-stat, Tri-Y headers, R/T 2.5" cats, Dynomax Ultraflows & catback, S-10 TC, T/B BP & airfoil, LT-4 ESC, 1.6 RR's, Metco AFPR w/ gauge, BFG 275/40 DR's, HO bar, body bushings - more to come!
Best 1/4 mile time: 13.957 @ 100.16 mph - fully loaded @ 4440 lbs.

E-mail [email protected]
Webpage http://web.triton.net/csm1/index.htm

 

[Guest]

No alignment is necessary.

Assuming you got the RIGHT brackets (hint : Energy Suspension GREASABLE poly and NOT the GM brackets) it's a snap. Talking 15-30 minute job. With the wrong brackets, its a nightmare (trust me : been there, done that, NOT doing it again!) and will take HOURS to get those suckers to compress in the brackets!

It will help greatly if you have someone to help "hold" the bar while you are installing the bolts.

Ed

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the reply Ed.

Well it looks like it might take hours...

I got the GM brackets, although they are the larger ones made specifically for the F-bar setup. I will use a little silicone spray and a rubber mallet to persuade them

. I also got the F-body endlinks, so otherwise I think I'm set. Time to start heating up the garage, its -1F outside

Chris

 

[Guest]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by ChriSS:
...Well it looks like it might take hours...

I got the GM brackets...
Chris<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I've heard that a C-clamp will help compress the bracket onto the bushing. Hint: put the bolts through the bracket before you put the C-clamp on the bracket.

HTH

------------------
Rowland Hill, '95 9C1

 

[Guest]

Chris, I hope you have a bigger than stock rear bar on already, otherwise doing just the front bar is gonna make the car drive really strangely.

 

[Guest]

Rowland,
Thanks for the tip, unfortunately I didn't read it until the job was done.

Mike,
I've got the HO rear bar already

Well... the whole job was a PITA, but it's finished without any serious damage to myself or my beastie-baby. The endlink bolts were rusted solid and even after soaking with WD-40 I twisted one of them completely off and badly bent the other before it came off! Then there's getting those @#$*& bushings in the brackets (yea, I know Ed, you told me so.) Ended up getting them far enough in, with a big rubber mallet, to start the bolts (took a while) and then compressing them by tightening - I used the torque wrench most of the way to make sure I didn't exceed the torque spec and strip them. But now I have a fully barred car, can't wait til spring to try it out!

Thanks for the help guys.. couldn't have done it without you (as usual).

Chris Mallory - '96 DCM - SSRI, !MAF screen, 3.73's, HPPIII, 160 T-stat, Tri-Y headers, R/T 2.5" cats, Dynomax Ultraflows & catback, S-10 TC, T/B BP & airfoil, LT-4 ESC, 1.6 RR's, Metco AFPR w/ gauge, BFG 275/40 DR's, HO/F swaybars, body bushings - more to come!
Best 1/4 mile time: 13.957 @ 100.16 mph - fully loaded @ 4440 lbs.

E-mail [email protected]
Webpage http://web.triton.net/csm1/index.htm
(had to edit my sig and put in the F-bar

)


[This message has been edited by ChriSS (edited December 23, 2000).]