[Guest]

I just replaced Tie rods, centerlink and Idler Arm & had the car aligned using the specs posted on the FAQ page. I only had the fornt done, didn't really see a need to have the rear aligned. It was WAY, WAY, WAY off before, so I won't post the pre-specs, but here is the result:

Front
Camber Left: -0.2 Right: -0.2
Caster Left: 4.4 Right 4.4
Toe Left: 0.01 Right: -0.01
SAI Left 9.9 Right: 9.0 (**What is this???)
Included Angle Left: 9.7 Right: 8.8
Cross Camber: 0.0
Cross Caster: -0.1
Cross SAI: 0.9
Total Toe: 0.00

Rear
Camber Left: -0.4 Right: -0.6
Toe Left: 0.29 Right: -0.16
Cross Camber: 0.2
Totak Toe: 0.14
Thrust Angle: 0.23

I still get a slight pull to the right, but I'm not getting the tracking problems I was before. Would the pull be from the rear??? Or is there an issue with the front alignment still? I have a 1 year warranty on the alignment, so I can go back and get it changed if something is out. Any tips, or concerns?

 

[Guest]

Bill : caster and camber in front look good, but that toe setting will still wear tires and is probably causing your wandering.

Take it back, and have them dial in 1/16" of toe in on each side. Be sure they do this with your weight in the driver's seat.

 

[Guest]

So should I be at about 4 degrees then? What is the relation of inch measurements to degrees? I want to be able to explain this to them without them thinking I don't know what's going on.

Also, should I get the rear adjusted while I'm there, or does it look decent? I haven't had any wear on the rear tires at all (aside from the tires wearing quickly when they spin a bit).

 

[Guest]

Toe is usually not measured in degrees, but rather in inches or mm (of course, 25.4mm per inch).

The rear is completely and totally non-adjustable on these cars. Well, it CAN be adjusted by radical means (i.e. heating and prying the axle tubes until they BEND slightly to get more negative camber) but I would definitely not recommend doing that on a street car!

As for the pull to the right, with your front alignment numbers as they are now it indicates there is some road crown in your area. The alignment shop can throw in some cross-caster (I'd recommend 0.5 degrees of it) to compensate.