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I've finished up the complete front end overhaul which consisted of:

-Rebuilt control arms W/Del-A-Lum bushings & Moog ball joints
-Inner & outer tie rod ends
-Center Link
-Drag Link
-All HDW W/NyLock nuts
-Tie rod end links
-Hotchkis front sway bar & bushings

I've got the 9C1 wheels & tires installed now.

My questions is, should I install the 20's I'll be riding on before the alignment?

I've only done a few alignments, and that was some years ago.

Thx!
 

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Tire/rim are not relevant to alignment,but ride height is...
 

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I'm about to purchase a new set of tires for my 96 BBB all stock with 117k. Front end is all original. I have bad tire wear on the inside tread of both front tires. Just wondering if I should just have the shop align the front end to the spec values or is there a more preferred alignment set up to avoid the dreaded inner tire wear?
 

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I suspect worn out linkage,and/or ball joints need checked out first at the very least.
 

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I'm about to purchase a new set of tires for my 96 BBB all stock with 117k. Front end is all original. I have bad tire wear on the inside tread of both front tires. Just wondering if I should just have the shop align the front end to the spec values or is there a more preferred alignment set up to avoid the dreaded inner tire wear?

You must have lowered the car. You need to remove 0.030 from all shim stacks for every half inch you lowered the car. A shop can do this for you, but you can do it yourself, and save the money. You can get shims by the each from NAPA. They are cheap. Check your shims, and get only the ones you need. You may be able to swap some of them to get the right stack in each corner. Keep the stacks separate and measure them as you take them out. 2 inch lower is 0.120 (about 1/8 inch), 1 inch is 0.060 (about 1/16 inch).


You can also get a camber/caster gauge on ebay for about the cost of an alignment, then all you need is a level parking lot. I do my own alignments, and it is really easy. Adjusting the camber or caster in the amount needed will not affect your toe to any noticeable degree.
 

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You must have lowered the car...
He stated it was all original. After 117k miles and 20+ years on the road, I suspect his issues are due to worn out joints not holding the proper amount of toe, not because of camber.

Crawl under the car and check for relative motion in the joints of the idler arm, center link, and tie rod ends while a helper tries to "steer" the wheel (at the wheel). The joints in the stock idler arm and center link are not known to be the most robust.
 

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I'm about to purchase a new set of tires for my 96 BBB all stock with 117k. Front end is all original. I have bad tire wear on the inside tread of both front tires. Just wondering if I should just have the shop align the front end to the spec values or is there a more preferred alignment set up to avoid the dreaded inner tire wear?
my guess is the inner front tire tread wear is due to camber or worn ball joints.

jack up the vehicle under the lower control arm . place a steel bar under the tire. as you lift tire feel for the smoothness of the tire movement .. if its popping and not smooth then the ball joints. the front end components have rubber boots. if these are damaged then the grease will leak out and the joints will fail. many times using a air powered grease tool will blow up these boots. or too much grease pumping .

on camber lets say the springs have a good sag to them or you lowered it . then this would cause the inside tire wear so the camber/caster will need adjusting.

on my inspecting before winter I found that one camber nut was loose. shim did not fall out , not that loose , but this does happen so check that the camber nuts are tight and shims are in place.

my 96 does not have this tire wear issue. it is stock height . what I find is the tires on the right side both front and rear wear at a slightly faster rate. probably due to road sand on the shoulders of the back roads I operate in the winter/spring due to snow operations.
 
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