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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone. It's been over 5 years since I sold my 96 SS, but today I bought it back from a friend and now I have all sorts of problems to fix to make her good again. My first and biggest problem is that none of the windows will roll up or down and the 2 fronts are open about 2 inches wich makes the car way to easy to break into, so I need to fix this ASAP. All 4 door switches appear to have no power. Could this be as simple as a bad fuse or would something else cause all 4 to fail like this? Thanks for any help you guys can provide.

Steve
 

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Have you done any troubleshooting at all? It is difficult to diagnose an issue like this with so little information.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Have you done any troubleshooting at all? It is difficult to diagnose an issue like this with so little information.
I've only checked the fuse which is still good. The only info I can find on the forum mentions wires going to the drivers door switch might be shorting out against other wires or grounding out on metal somewhere. That's where I'm gonna start today, but if you have any suggestions I'll check them out also.

Steve
 

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The wires are not grounding, or the fuse would be blown. Get you VOM out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, here is what I know so far. The fuse is good, but the 30 amp circuit breaker keeps blowing when attempting to use the windows. The CB blows regardless of which window switch I use which leads me to believe the drivers master switch might be bad. Thoughts?

Steve
 

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You have a short somewhere. Get your VOM out, and check the circuits. It could be the switch, or a bundle of wires has worn through the insulation. Did you try the individual switches for the three non driver's doors? If it were my car, I would have to check the wiring myself to determine what the issue is. The chance that it is the master switch is remote.
 

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I had a short in the driver door which was the feed wire to the door lamp. it was so small I had to use a magnifying glass.. so I found the location of the short by pulling the wire/switches out but left them connected .. then the fuse did not blow.. that is how I knew it was in that driver door.. the metal has sharp edges and that is why the wire got cut into the insulation. I did not do any butt splicing or soldering I just taped up all the wires and added some loom over them.



the other issue with that door was the driver window switch .. the driver door window control switch needed replacing because the contacts worn down ..worked good on all the other windows but not the drivers window.


when I purchased this vehicle back nov 1995 new I changed the feed to the power seat circuit . reason is I did not want to turn the ignition on, to control the windows ..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've made some progress on the window problem. All of the wiring is good, but there is a problem with the passenger side window. The window will go up about 95% of the way and then stop. I can manually pull the window up that last 2 inches, but it won't go up in it's own and if you hold the switch in the up position it just blows the circuit breaker. I did the window roller mod years ago, so I don't think that's the problem. Either the motor is failing part way up or something is causing the window to stop before it reaches the top which overloads the circuit. I still need to get into the door to determine what's causing this, but at least I have 3 working windows now and know not to use the passenger window.

Steve
 

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good info you posted.. do you spray paint safe silicone on the window rubber window tracks ?
have to also use white lithium grease on the window slides metal / plastic ..


the window motor has a current limiter so when the window rides up to the top the motor current switch will open and stop motor.. the other reason this is fabricated is for safety .. like a kid//dog has its head out window and the window goes up..


you most likely do not have the tools to do this .. using a clamp on DC current meter .. see how much the other windows use amps///,, then check out that bad window.. if it draws too much could be binding ..or the motor has shorted winding's..
 

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Your lower track may be out of adjustment.
 

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I've made some progress on the window problem. All of the wiring is good, but there is a problem with the passenger side window. The window will go up about 95% of the way and then stop. I can manually pull the window up that last 2 inches, but it won't go up in it's own and if you hold the switch in the up position it just blows the circuit breaker. I did the window roller mod years ago, so I don't think that's the problem. Either the motor is failing part way up or something is causing the window to stop before it reaches the top which overloads the circuit. I still need to get into the door to determine what's causing this, but at least I have 3 working windows now and know not to use the passenger window.

Steve
Steve,
Take the pass door panel off.Put window up as high as it goes until binding/stopping.In the glass front channel(closest to door hinges),there is the rubber insulator that the glass rides in.On my 94,I had same exact problem with right front pass window.Was stopping couple inches from top close. It was the rubber the window rides up and down in that was somehow twisted.Lower glass back down and straighten it out.Good luck hope this helps.
Jim
 
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