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Discussion Starter #1
Since IGBA forums dont work ( or dont exist anymore), the link the their tech page that had the allignment forums obviously doens't exist anymore either.

Does anyone have the specs from the IGBA site saved somewhere they can post here please?

Thank you.
 
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Discussion Starter #2
</font><blockquote>code:</font><hr /><pre style="font-size:x-small; font-family: monospace;">Description Specification (deg) Tolerance (deg)
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Front Left Camber -0.25 0.25
Front Right Camber -0.25 0.25
Front Cross Camber N/A 0.25
Front Caster 4.00 0.50
Front Cross Caster N/A 0.50
Front Total Toe 0.00 0.06
Rear Camber 0.00 0.50
Rear Total Toe 0.00 0.12
Thrust Angle 0.00 0.25 </pre>[/QUOTE]
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Keep in mind that you should dial in .5 <edit> cross-caster <edit> if you have road crown to deal with and don't want the car pulling to the right. Also, you'll want 1/16" of toe instead of zero, since these cars toe out when rolling.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Keep in mind that you should dial in .5 cross-camber if you have road crown to deal with and don't want the car pulling to the right.

</font><blockquote>code:</font><hr /><pre style="font-size:x-small; font-family: monospace;">Description Specification (deg) Tolerance (deg)
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Front Left Camber -0.25 0.25
Front Right Camber -0.25 0.25
Front Cross Camber 0.5 0.25
Front Caster 4.00 0.50
Front Cross Caster N/A 0.50
Front Total Toe 0.00 0.06
Rear Camber 0.00 0.50
Rear Total Toe 0.00 0.12
Thrust Angle 0.00 0.25 </pre>
[/quote]Is this what the specs "should" look like to include the .5 xcamber?
 
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Discussion Starter #5
When you take into account the fact that every car is different (tires, suspension bushings, ride height, driving style/pickiness, frame-straightness) I believe that the best thing to do is align to the IGBA specs, then road test the car. Address any issue you have after testing. A good tech will work with you on this. Wayne is right about the camber correcting for crown. Caster also does this. I recommend lots of caster, both sides...
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry, had a brain fart there... It's cross-caster I meant. That may not be the exact figure used to eliminate pull to the right for all cars, but it will be much closer than 0 is.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Okay, now I'm really confused. On a 9C1 with Impala wheels and 255/50 tires, Hotchkis springs and new shocks (Monroe SS), will I screw things up and ruin my tires by using the specs listed in this thread?
 
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Discussion Starter #8
You should be just fine with the posted specs. The important thing is to find a shop that will work to get the settings correct. Then always go to the same shop because different Alignment racks will give different results. A good alignment with road testing and tweaking can take several hours. Most shops don't want to spend the time to do it correctly. The posted spec's are within the Factory suggestions which allow one-half a degree of tolerance plus or minus.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
No, you will not mess anything up. The cross-camber is to remove the pull when on a roadway that leans to the right. The posted alignment specs are good, the cross-camber is just a "tweak" which a good shop would put in anyway, to eliminate the pull caused by road crown.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Are these custom Alignment specs? Or factory specs?

Will these prevent the negative camber.. That results in inside tire wear on Impalas?
 
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Discussion Starter #11
They are a refined version of the factory specs. The factory specs are extremely loose in their tolerances.

FSM specs;
</font><blockquote>code:</font><hr /><pre style="font-size:x-small; font-family: monospace;"> Description Specification (deg) Tolerance (deg) ------------------------------------------------
Front Left Camber 0 1.5
Front Right Camber 0 1.5
Front Left Caster 3.25 1.0
Front Right Caster 3.75 1.0
Front Cross Caster 0.5 0.70
Front Total Toe 0.16 0.2</pre>[/QUOTE]Oh, one other thing, you'll want 1/16" of toe in, because these cars tend to toe-out a bit when rolling so 1/16" gives you 0 toe when actually moving.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the info Allen and Wayne. And thanks to V8Killer for opening the thread.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
I printed out this thread and gave it to the allignment guys. They said they couldn't use them because the sedans and the wagons have different specs. I said that they are exacly the same car and that the additional weight was in the rear of the car, which is auto-leveled.

So... is it okay to use sedan allignment specs on a wagon? I need to know ASAP.

Thanks

Steve
 
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Discussion Starter #14
I don't know about the wagon Q but as to the tire wear issue...

The tires wear perfectly. Even the guy who does the set-up keeps bringing up the tire wear issue and I keep reminding him that he's been using the same numbers and these are the same tires for the last year and a half and everything is great.

It really IS tough finding someone who is willing to deviate from the specs that pop up on the alignment machine.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Are these specs reccommended for a sedan lowered with ST (or similar) springs?
 
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Discussion Starter #16
I use those specs on both my B-bodies. One is lowered with GW front springs and wagon rear springs, F-bar front and HA bar out back -- the other is stock 9C1. Those settings, as a base, work fine for both. I then took them out and tweaked the settings for each car based on several road tests.
I would think they would work fine for a wagon as well, but I have no direct experience with a wagon. There is minimal difference in the chassis between the wagon and sedan.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
I'm runnin' Eibachs with ZQ8 bumpstops un-trimmed. She's pretty low in the front.

255/50-17 in summer, re-aligned for 225/70-15 in winter.
So that's 2 alignments per year unless I feel things getting funky. The roads around here are brutal and I drive a little too hard.

I asked them to add the 1/16 toe per side and let them do a very slight correction for 'road crown' but not much. I do like to go 'hands off' on flat concrete roadways, LOL.
 
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