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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the story: i've had a set of headers i pulled off of my camaro sitting in my shed for @ 2 years. i don't know what brand. i suspect they're some late 80's summit or jegs brand header. they were chrome at one time. now vht black. the main reason i attempt this is the #2 cyl. kicks back hopefull away from my a/c e'nuff
i did have to cut the front half of my drivers side frame brace off
i didn't really have to adjust my brake lines at all
yes the pics are terrible
pass. side

driver side in


questions: #1 are the oil cooler lines at the filter clockable?
in an attempt at installing mystery headers i've found the #1 exhaust tube comes within @ 1/2 an inch of my oil cooler lines as they leave the fitting the oil filter screws into. can i rotate the fitting a little? underneath pic didn't make it.


how the hell am i supposed to route my wires?
#3 and #4 cyl. are tight
 

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They look like FLP's......but I'm not the authority on the early long tubes.......

KW
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
got rained on last night so didn't get much done.
routed wires on driver side. cyl.#1 and #5 are very close to my wire boots. gonna try the factory heat shields on these.

fwiw. the headers have 12001 stamped on the flanges.
i ground the block side welds smooth. they actually wern't that bad. i've seen worse.
took the motor mount loose, tilted motor with a jack n block of wood. they dropped right in.
used the cheapest mr.gasket gaskets. figured i'd blow them anyway. will get good ones when i get everything sorted out.

if anyone in the area wants some 96 ss exhaust manifolds and/or cats w/@ 120k miles on them, i got em.
 

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got rained on last night so didn't get much done.
routed wires on driver side. cyl.#1 and #5 are very close to my wire boots. gonna try the factory heat shields on these.

fwiw. the headers have 12001 stamped on the flanges.
i ground the block side welds smooth. they actually wern't that bad. i've seen worse.
took the motor mount loose, tilted motor with a jack n block of wood. they dropped right in.
used the cheapest mr.gasket gaskets. figured i'd blow them anyway. will get good ones when i get everything sorted out.

if anyone in the area wants some 96 ss exhaust manifolds and/or cats w/@ 120k miles on them, i got em.
They get real hot not coated, i had to take mine off and put some header wrap on around the header just around the area where the spark plugs are just so they wouldnt keep burning up while riding..
 

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the story: i've had a set of headers i pulled off of my camaro..........
They're Dynomax 85012 JET Black Painted Headers..........
Well duh!

They definately are not FLP's (what I said earlier :eek: .....) because they came off a Camaro.

And they may not even fit on a B-body.......in case that's your goal.

KW
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
despite the rain, i got them both in.
heat shields on both sides had to come out.
removed both valve covers.
removed both frame braces.
most plug wires, oil cooler, trans. cooler, and a/c lines will have to be wrapped.
have to reinstall starter, and alt.
also need to order collector reducers w/ o2 bungs.
hmm... wonder if o2 wires are long e'nuff?
this began as a center link and idler arm replacement. how'd i end up here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
pass. side very close to a/c lines and control arm. much more room for plugs on this side.
driver side just the opp. tubes bend in earlier to clear rear mounted stearing box i guess.
one more reason to buy good headers.
gonna spend more on heat wrap than anything.

 

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Why don't you get them coated?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
it would be nice but, honestly they ain't worth it. my inferior pics hide the pitting. they look ruff. these bad boys were chrome at one time. there was only a little bit left in the centers of the flanges when i stripped and re-painted them w/ vht high temp.
cost so far:
headers- free
cheapie gaskets- $10
bolts-$10
2 cans [email protected]$14
antifreeze-$10
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
f-body a/c lines question



broke my a/c line! just had to give it one more shove. cracked it where the line meets the block

i guess now would be as good a time as any to convert to f-body a/c lines.
is anything necessary other than the block that goes to the back of the compressor and the lines? any prob. w/ the cross member?
i know the hard lines drops down then come towards the rear of the car. the b-body just come straight back.
 
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