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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I just started my swap about 2 weeks ago and thought I’d share my progress for anyone that is interested. Basically done at this point, just need to head to exhaust shop and test drive the tranny a little more. But for anyone wondering how I did it and what you need:

Drivetrain: 2000 6.0 LQ4 with 4L80e pulled out of a junkyard GMC Sierra 2500 myself
198033


198034


Engine mounts:
Used KDS mounts and motor fit nice. Does sit close to firewall but not a big issue. You can slide them a bit and I did have the motor all the way back, but start at the middle. Replaced the stock motor mounts while I was there using anchor 2292 on both sides. Just make sure you have the correct orientation for the top and bottom because you do not want to have to take off the motor mounts over a simple mistake. And I was able to remove the mounts by MYSELF without having to drop the control arm. Just make sure you have a good swivel and flexible wrench and you can do it. Just take your time. And make sure to primer under the mount too before you put them on, if you are painting your frame.
 

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Oil Pan

Used LS1 Camaro f body pan and it fit perfect with the KDS mounts. Clearance was good all around and nothing hit. Keep in mind when you bolt the engine in without the trans connected, the motor will lean back and your pan will be touching the k member until you bolt up the trans. For the low oil level sensor, the stock LT1 sensor threads right in or you can just buy a plug for $10 like I did. Gives it a cleaner look
 

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Fuel System

Now I used the stock sending unit and just replaced the pump with a higher flowing one than stock. I personally prefer in-tank pump setup but the choice is yours. Used a Kemso 10912 pump off eBay. Don’t let the price fool you. These pumps are cheap and reliable. I used PTFE braided lines that way I wouldn’t have any vapor smell, like you usually get with regular braided lines. If you use these lines, make sure not to cross thread your fittings onto the hose or it will leak! Trust me! Used a corvette fuel filter to regulate the fuel pressure and put it in the stock location. Used AN quick disconnect fittings at the rail, fuel filter, and gas tank feed and return. Makes everything so much simpler but make sure you get the threaded quick disconnect fittings and not the ones that clip on!
 

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Accessories

I kept the truck spacing so I could use the stock alternator and power steering pump that came with the engine. Used LSSimple brackets, and luckily he has a bracket for a stock HD6 A/C compressor. Wanted to keep stock compressor because of the way I wired up the A/C to the 0411 pcm. Everything fit perfect and has good clearance around the stock ABS and overflow tank. May need to bend brake line just a bit behind alternator though. For the power steering pump, I used a stock Impala return line that’s cut to fit and a stock 2001 Silverado pressure hose. Needs a little bending but everything bolts right in to steering box and fits nicely. With the A/C I was surprisingly able to use stock lines.
 

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Looks good!
Nice El Camino! What year, 64 or 65?
 

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Thanks! It’s a 65. Good eye.. will finish updating my post soon! Been busy finishing up this beast. As a matter of fact I’m At the exhaust shop right now waiting lol
 
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Transmission and Driveshaft

Transmissions are never fun to put in on the ground. That being said, this was my first 4L80e and let me tell you, it is very heavy! Before I installed the trans I put a Transgo shift kit, Sonnax line to lube valve, and plastic check balls. Highly recommend you install these parts at a minimum. Easier to do while transmission is out and on a bench. Luckily for me, the transmission was definitely rebuilt so I didn’t bother with a rebuild.. yet! Used Dans crossmember from ClearImage. Came with a poly mount and everything fit and bolted up nice with the KDS mounts. Had to make the bolt thru holes a little bigger on the frame, other than that, trans went in without any modifications to tunnel or anywhere else. I did have to cut the ear on the passenger side due to the headers I used, but I’ll get to that. If you are using AN fittings, make sure you get the correct ones for a 4L80e. There is a difference and you do not want to find out the hard way! Used a Lokar dipstick to make it easier to move as needed. Make sure to put some kind of sealant at trans! Bought the slip yoke new from GM and had a new driveshaft made for me. Used 1350 series U-joints and each end of the shaft but with a conversion U-joint at the rear end so it would bolt up to the stock pinion yoke. I Plan on changing out to a 1350 series pinion yoke when I do gear swap, and this way my driveshaft is ready to accept the bigger u joint later on. When measuring your shaft length, make sure the vehicle is on the ground!
 

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Tried that but for some weird reason it Doesn’t fit. And the pump itself comes with some. Plus I already had that line in there from before so I just reused it since I was more concerned about soldering the wires and making a new harness to power the pump. Appreciate the tip though!
 

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Great post. Thanks for making it. I am going to pop an LS in the wagon when it comes back from the body shop and your thread will be a help. The GMPP LS376/525. Out of curiosity, how much longer or shorter is the LS driveshaft than the LT? Also, how difficult was the re-pinning of the harness?
 
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pop an LS in the wagon
Yeah, cuz they just drop in🤔🙄
Driveshaft depends on engine placement and transmission choice.
Case in point, my LT1 auto, my LT1 manual, my LS manual, I never changed postion of the trans output , driveshaft length.
 

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Yeah, cuz they just drop in🤔🙄
The work required is not a concern of mine.
Driveshaft depends on engine placement and transmission choice.
Case in point, my LT1 auto, my LT1 manual, my LS manual, I never changed postion of the trans output , driveshaft length.
Thanks for your perspective. I was hopeful that I could re-use my Dennys driveshaft. I guess I won't really know for sure until I actually get everything in and measure.
 

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The work required is not a concern of mine.
Atlanta Dan certainly piqued my curiosity!
Are you for hire, or can you give the name of the shop you have so much trust in?
I am having a hard time putting the same LT1 back where I found it :ROFLMAO:

198081
 

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Never said I thought it was easy, did I? I said the work is not something that keeps me awake.

Let's see... Been building cars for 35 years now. Including:
1. Stuffing a Caddy 472 with a narrowed 4.11 posi 12-bolt into a 1978 VW Rabbit sitting on a chopped and narrowed frame out of an old Buick Skylark
2. Putting the driveline from a 2003 BMW M3 (S54) into a 1995 BMW E34 station wagon, supercharging it, and then getting the 1995 BMW DME to handle running everything without converting to OBD2.
3. Transferring a Subaru boxer engine into a VW Beetle and converting the Beetle to water-cooling
4. Adding a turbo to a 1995 BMW M5 and making it daily-driver reliable.
...and about two dozen other project cars. I was also a professionally paid mechanic at both a higher-end German-specialty shop, and a domestic repair shop.

As I said before - an engine transplant is a non issue for me. I've got loads of time, tools, an inquisitive mind, and a healthy portion of know-how. Turning wrenches is not a concern I have. "Not a concern" =/= easy. It means I am not concerned about the effort it will require.

Didn't expect this thread to turn into a dick-length contest.
 

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Let's see... Been building cars for 35 years now. Including:
1. Stuffing a Caddy 472 with a 4.11 posi into a 1978 VW Rabbit sitting on a chopped and narrowed frame out of an old Buick Skylark
2. Putting the driveline from a 2006 BMW M3 into a 1995 BMW E34 station wagon, supercharging it, and then getting the 1995 BMW DME to handle running everything without converting to OBD2
3. Transferring a Subaru boxer engine into a VW Beetle and converting the Beetle to water-cooling
...and about two dozen other project cars.

As I said before - an engine transplant is a non issue for me. I've got loads of time, tools, an inquisitive mind, and a healthy portion of know-how.

Didn't expect this thread to turn into a dick-length contest, but ok.
You got me all wrong.
I have no wiener to swing in this arena, but I sure was curious about your wording, "The work required is not a concern of mine".​
I don't know you, or your background at all.
I am in awe of people who can do mechanical work to this level. Some of your projects are unusual by my personal taste, but I respect the skill, knowledge, and experience needed to do that stuff. I am a tool and die maker by trade and while familiar with machining and "fits", I get lost on many simple automotive challenges. As I said, I can hardly get my LT1 in the place where it came from.
I sure would like to have you as a friend and neighbor! I could use your advice and supervision.
I really wanted to do an LS swap for my forced induction build, but I was pregnant with a fully built LT1 by the time LS swaps became common enough for me to tackle. I still regret not biting the bullet on an LS...
No harm meant, but I really wanted to know if you were that mechanically inclined, or if you were using a speed shop you trusted. If you were using a speed shop, I would have called to inquire about finishing my projects (y)
Mike Lonergan
 

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I was hopeful that I could re-use my Dennys driveshaft.
It was the word "pop" that I reacted to.
It seems the more people trivialize something the hackier the work ends up.
They are usually cobbled together messes.
Not saying yours is going to be , it was just that word.
Yes, depending on trans, there will be a good chance you can save the driveshaft.
Just dont let the front mounts and holes force placement.
If you want personal opinions on front mounts, feel free to PM

"35 years " so just startin out then 😉😅
 

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@nsaness & @95wagon I apologize for boiling over and misinterpreting your intent. It's difficult to suss-out nuance over the interweb and I went in the wrong direction. I have lots of respect for anyone that's done the LS swap in these cars because it is not an easy thing. Thus my reply to the OP thanking him for the post. I'll be riding on the coat-tails of those that have already done this. I did not mean to trivialize anyone or any work that has gone before. @95wagon in particular, your work has been an inspiration of mine for some time now.
 
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No apology necessary. I understand. My lame attempt at humor (with the meme) was probably misleading versus my genuine curiosity. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Still have to post on the wiring. Sorry for the late response, but I was having an electrical gremlin myself and it was not fun chasing down. That being said, car is done! Runs nice and idles so smooth. Needs a tune to get the most out of it, but probably going to cam it first
 
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