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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I finally got some help with my brakes, drove her for 2 days and this!
who can tell me what this hose is?
It started dripping coolant today.
 

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You see a plastic restrictor connected to the heater hose. They are known to deteriorate with age.
 

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Yes thats an inline restrictor to help protect the heater core from higher pressure water going to it from the waterpump.
You can cut both sides of the clamps and get another restrictor and use two worm drive hose clamps
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So is that all I have to replace?
Or the whole heater hose?
Just saw the next post.
Is that the clamp with the screw?
Don't laugh at how stupid that sounds!
 

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No need for a new hose. Just cut the hose and get another restrictor valve. Unless... it's too short after you cut it.
 

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So is that all I have to replace?
Or the whole heater hose?
If you follow the hoses you will see a plastic T near the reservoir. It is probably bad too. You can replace whole assembly for some $60. It is sold as a whole piece unfortunately - all the hoses, the restrictor and the T.
 

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If you follow the hoses you will see a plastic T near the reservoir. It is probably bad too. You can replace whole assembly for some $60. It is sold as a whole piece unfortunately - all the hoses, the restrictor and the T.
He has a '93, no Tee. If you use vice grips or something similar to crush the nipple on the end of the restrictor inside the hose and the metal crimp fitting, I have heard it is then possible to just pull off the crimp fitting. Replace with new restrictor and hose clamp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks for the replies fellas.
keep you posted.
 

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Dont cut the hose to get the new restrictor in! I just pinched the metal clamp on one side with pliers till it came off. Then I used a new hose clamp to hold the restrictor in place. No need to cut anything
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Finally got the heater hose fixed today.
Got her started and I had a SES light on.
Went to Checker and it started running like crap and died.
The guy at checker told he couldn't get the scanner to work with my car.
So limped it home.
Could it be the coolant got in the spark plugs and fouled a few out?
 

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Vehicles 95 and older generally can't be scanned with the parts store scanners. However being your car is a '93 you can use the paperclip method to read the codes. Been a long time since I've owned a paperclipable GM so I don't remember the exact two pins to jumper but do a search of the site and you will be able to find out which two pins. - Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the replies.
I wanted to slap the guy at Checker when he looked at the restrictor like it was speaking another language.
It was hilarious!
Any thoughts on the spark plug theory? :confused:
 

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Since the plugs are 'in' the engine, coolant can't get to them....unless you have a blown head gasket or cracked head. Could coolant have seeped into the plug wires at the dist. cap...that's possible, pull them and look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Don't see any coolant on or near the dist cap.
But my wires by the manifold are covered with it.
And it does seem like a couple of cylinders aren't firing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I changed my plugs and wires and it ran beautiful until it got up to operating temp.
Then it started to stumble and died.
And I stillHave a check engine light.
Checker and autozone said they don't check codes for a 93 anymore.
Does anybody have any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
After some searching on here, I decided to try the IAC valve.
Does anybody have any pics of where it is, or can talk me through it?
 

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I would find out what that CEL is trying to tell you. Check for loose electrical of vacuum lines. You might have disconnected something accidently with your restrictor install. Replacing parts on a hunch can get expensive. I take it you did not have this problem prior to the restrictor install. Good Luck
 
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