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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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Nab might still have my cracked Eagle cast crank from Golen 383.
 

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Nope, I got $.50 for it from the metal man :)

N
 

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Let me add, most of the engines I build for myself and my buddies have cast cranks
and none of them have broken or cracked. This is 10+ engines with cast Eagle stuff.
The key is to be smart with the tune and not run stupid timing so as to avoid detonation.
Even the ImpalaMASTER has a inexpensive cast crank and will run 10s pass after pass
on spray with only 28 deg total timing!

Nab
 

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What Nab said and back in 2004 - 2005 when I had my 383 built there was a know batch of bad cast cranks. At least that is what I read and heard.

To add to what Nab said about his builds, my local engine builder, George Cox, who has been building motors, SB & BB Chevys, Fords, MOPAR, etc...,
since the sixties, uses Eagle cast rotating assemblies in some of his race motor builds without issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's a risk that's ok for some.
Before I ever saw all the "cast aftermarket cranks" arguments on the internet, I was told by one of the top builders in the country, 5 miles out the road from me, that he will not build an engine for anybody anymore with one. It's either forged or factory cast. He mostly builds $20k-$50k motors, but does cheap ~500-600 hp motors for lots of local bracket racers, and freshens them up periocally. He said it was a no-brainer for him when he saw almost half the cast aftermarket SBC cranks cracked after 2 seasons of running passes at 6500-7000 rpm, but NOT ONE GM factory crank that he could recall!
I'm not buying the "bad batch" excuse. I don't trust their QC on casting nor machining.
The risk is ok for some, but in the case of the builder near me, he can't afford to have these issues surfacing when someone is talking to him about building a $30k motor.
 

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Pat, very true. Builders still use the cheap stuff with success. However, I no longer advise and/or go cheap with my engine builds anymore because of my
personal experience.

I have a reconditioned (polished & balanced) OEM crank in my new 357 Ellwein LT1. In my last Ellwein LT1, a 383, Karl used a Compstar American made crank.
Last I saw, Chris and Michelle have been running it hard at ECIRS without any issues.

As for my first 383 by Golen, along with the cracked Eagle cast crank, the oil pickup tack weld broke and pickup fell off, rod cap bolt was cross threaded and
stripped, and one of the Comp lifters was broken and stuck open. Karl's diagnosis was spun rod bearings due to oil starvation. Honestly, the oil pick up was
the worse and most embarrassing offense. After I saw a proper weld for the oil pump pick up by Cox, I knew I had picked the wrong builder. Combination of
a poor build with an aggressive tune equals a broken motor.

I understand that the majority of crank cores are now made in China. Karl said Howards just started using China made cores.
 

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It's a risk that's ok for some.
Before I ever saw all the "cast aftermarket cranks" arguments on the internet, I was told by one of the top builders in the country, 5 miles out the road from me, that he will not build an engine for anybody anymore with one. It's either forged or factory cast. He mostly builds $20k-$50k motors, but does cheap ~500-600 hp motors for lots of local bracket racers, and freshens them up periocally. He said it was a no-brainer for him when he saw almost half the cast aftermarket SBC cranks cracked after 2 seasons of running passes at 6500-7000 rpm, but NOT ONE GM factory crank that he could recall!
I'm not buying the "bad batch" excuse. I don't trust their QC on casting nor machining.
The risk is ok for some, but in the case of the builder near me, he can't afford to have these issues surfacing when someone is talking to him about building a $30k motor.
The metal today is cast or forged so much better than the 1960's or 1970's and thats why you can push 1000 HP in a ten bolt or a cast crank in an engine. Couldn't do that 25 years ago but that also changes if the new part came from China or out of the USA. They still have all the junk in the stuff the USA had years ago also. The metal out of those other countries is not a refind and thats failure in metal.

I bet those cast cranks that broke are either made overseas, cast overseas or the metal came from overseas because it was cheaper. There is a reason it's cheaper:)
 

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Hmm, so I should continue to keep this factory Crank I removed from an LT1 that cracked due to water freezing in the block?

I don't have a current use for it but hate to get rid of it...

Rodney
Put it next to the impala wheel and tire in the bedroom!

I have a good lt1 crank in the basement all oioed and bagged. Absofreekinlutely no use for it right now, but I cant bring meself to scrap it.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This could be overly presumptious of me, but I view "aftermarket cast cranks" and "overseas cast cranks" as one in the same.
Does anybody actually sell quality (ie. not cast from Chinesium and not machined by them either) cast cranks, other than in the lots the OEM's buy? I don't know :confused:
I don't know whether those cranks the local builder referred to were cast and machined overseas, just cast overseas, or what. Eagle and Scat were the ones he mentioned. This would have been in the 1990-2000 timeframe.
 

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I would lump aftermarket and overseas cast cranks in the same boat too, though I don't actually know if any of these companies are actually making anything in the USA or not. Skip White seems to think very highly of the Scat 9000 nodular steel cast crankshafts and goes into some detail as to why, for what that's worth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I would lump aftermarket and overseas cast cranks in the same boat too, though I don't actually know if any of these companies are actually making anything in the USA or not. Skip White seems to think very highly of the Scat 9000 nodular steel cast crankshafts and goes into some detail as to why, for what that's worth.
Not a shot at you, Needles, but after reading through the marketing vomit in that SW link you posted, I wouldn't trust any of their claims. They do have good prices, so I could see buying a product through them that was validated somewhere else.
 

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Put it next to the impala wheel and tire in the bedroom!

I have a good lt1 crank in the basement all oioed and bagged. Absofreekinlutely no use for it right now, but I cant bring meself to scrap it.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Hmm, how did you know I have spare Impala rims and a couple of original tires? LOL

(Actually I have 7 Impala rims and some takeoffs that I was using when I felt the need to burn some rubber... ;) The slicks are mounted on some steely 15's. Of course I have a set of decent rubber for normal driving although this vehicle is currently parked waiting for time and money for a total refurb...)

Rodney
 
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