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Well, my second ERE went tits-up in under 5k. I am sending it back to Karl for a post-mortem, but at the very least - a rod bearing gave it up despite the engine being damn near babied its entire short life. An oil filter cut verified this. No loss of oil pressure, always warmed up, never rev'd over 6200, never overheated, religious oil changes with the good stuff, etc etc. Hell - I never even power-braked the car.

Karl is probably going to buy it back from me (most likely, at a loss to me...) and I've lost enough $ on this operation to sour me on doing it again. I'm going to be putting my Trick Flow heads and all the valvetrain goodies into whatever decent short-block I can get my hands on and just motoring down the road.

I've purchased a Mabbco short block ($795) off of eBay before and installed it in my last wagon. That mill was flogged like a rented mule and never missed a beat, so I am pretty confident that they'd be up to the task again. Before I did that, however, I thought I'd ask the IMPSS community if any of y'all had a good shortblock you'd want to part with.
 

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Ouch...sad to hear, especially on a ERE motor. If motor is going back to Karl for post mortem He would tell you the how and why he feels it happened..

I get how your patience, and checkbook, are fading on this wagon. A shortblock from one of the larger reman houses would likely be the less expensive replacement short block. I have gone that route on a few cars (not SS) in my life and also drove both those cars like I stole them without issues for years. These short blocks, IMHO, did not have "top shelf" componets
 

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He didn't imply that. He cut the filter open to confirm that bearing material had been capture in it, as a filter is supposed to do.
I cut open my filters so when he said the cut reveal it I thought is was the filter media had a cut ... they do make poorly fabricated filters they do break at the media seams .

spun bearing I would guess the guy did not properly set the bearings in place .
or the crank shaft was damaged ..

could be the oil flow was restricted and that also could cause it.. last week a forum mentioned his fram oil filter caused the oil light to come on. used a high quality synthetic filter problem fixed .
not the first time fram has killed engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
spun bearing I would guess the guy did not properly set the bearings in place .
or the crank shaft was damaged ..
could be the oil flow was restricted and that also could cause it.. last week a forum mentioned his fram oil filter caused the oil light to come on. used a high quality synthetic filter problem fixed .
not the first time fram has killed engines.
Napa Gold or Mann are the only filters the car has ever seen (in my care, anyway..). Mobile 1 5w30 every 5k. Oil pressure has never gone below 28-30 psi when hot, at idle, and in drive at a stoplight. Oil pressure continues to be totally stable - needle not bouncing and pressure is constant. Whatever bearing is going out, it is obviously juuuust starting to go, which is why the car is no longer being driven until I get this sorted out.

This is the second ere engine you've grenaded,. Why you?
Way to misrepresent the facts to troll me, Nick. First ERE was 100% fine - just noisy due to the piston alloy and a slightly bigger machining tolerance when cold. Engine was in excellent condition when I swapped it out. Karl offered to swap it since he openly stated that he should have warned me about the noise, and he is now running it in his own car. This engine? Who knows. Obviously something in the bottom end is letting go.

What the **** do you care, anyway, dickhead? Is your sad, pathetic life so devoid of happiness that you have to chase me from one online forum to the next just to harass me? What's your fascination with me anyway? Nevermind. Don't answer. Just leave me the f-alone, Nick.
 

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What the **** do you care, anyway, dickhead? Is your sad, pathetic life so devoid of happiness
Yes it's true,. Your constant problems are cathartic for me, your constant name calling is music to my ears, it is obvious it comes from an unstable uncontrolled source.
Shame you are publicly promoting this at Karl's expense.
Carry on, you always have all the answers to your many unique problems.
I wish you luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Karl has been nothing BUT a totally stand-up, amazing vendor. He continues to be. He never said the fault was his because there's no way to know at this point. We're both of the mindset that **** happens and he wants the short-block back for the parts, as any good businessman would. I've not disparaged him or his workmanship in any way. Matter of fact, I've constantly sung his praises whenever and wherever I can because he is a craftsman of the highest order, as well as a totally stand-up guy.

It'd be great if you'd stop misrepresenting the facts, Nick.
 

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Karl has been nothing BUT a totally stand-up, amazing vendor. He continues to be. He never said the fault was his because there's no way to know at this point. We're both of the mindset that **** happens and he wants the short-block back for the parts, as any good businessman would. I've not disparaged him or his workmanship in any way. Matter of fact, I've constantly sung his praises whenever and wherever I can because he is a craftsman of the highest order, as well as a totally stand-up guy.

It'd be great if you'd stop misrepresenting the facts, Nick.
so he wants the old block for parts ......LOL....
YA another guy gonna get screwed .IMO...............

have been a vehicle owner since 1967 I never had an engine fail . one of my GM sedans 380K miles no engine repairs .. did the water pump that was all I did to the engine..

so with your comments he certainly did fail ....less than 10k on it and spun bearing . not good...sloppy work ...
 

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so he wants the old block for parts ......LOL....
YA another guy gonna get screwed .IMO...............

have been a vehicle owner since 1967 I never had an engine fail . one of my GM sedans 380K miles no engine repairs .. did the water pump that was all I did to the engine..

so with your comments he certainly did fail ....less than 10k on it and spun bearing . not good...sloppy work ...
your opinion about the Op's builder as doing "sloppy work" is just that...your opinion. I would suggest you withhold off on assuming why the Op's engine is having problems until the Op and builder find the "why" it happened....as they both will certainly do.

At this point this falls under the **** happens category...

Any engine be it new or reman can have failure due to part failure or builder error....or installer/user error. Either of which has not been confirmed as yet regarding the Op's motor. No builder or parts are 100% infallible
 

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Wow, I figured he was just asking anyone if they had an old LT1 block.

Yes, I do. It's in a storage shed in Gettysburg. 282k w/ a shredded rod bearing and will require a complete rebuild. IM me and make an offer if interested.
 

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my family members rebuilt engines had a legit repair facility .. they never had this type failure on their work. very successful , customers were very sad when they got too old to continue this type work ...

with the vehicle owners comments no racing , driving it easy , proper oil changes etc... engine was not properly assembled IMO and I do have a right to give my 2 cents on this.

I would be in this guys shop watching him break it down , to see what the hell happened ..

this is an expensive screw up for the owner ... hopefully he can get a replacement on the cheap..
 

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I would have to say that I agree "BALLSS" and wait until a postmortem until we can say definitely anything about the build. Karl is a very good and meticulous builder. He is a very stand-up sort of guy and always takes care of his customers. I had many choices when I chose a builder and I went with Karl because of his reputation.

BTW, my stock engine went at 92k miles with three spun main bearings. Of course, I run the crap out of my Impala at the Autocross and Road Racing courses. Again this is why I went with a ERE 383 :)
 

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jcat....This is a open forum and anyone can state their opinion.

My $.02 is your comments about the Op's builder being "sloppy"....IMHO are off base given the Op, you, me and the rest reading this thread don't know "why" it happened. Just there appears to be a spun bearing (READ THIS IS JUST THE ASSUMPTION NOW) on a low mi, supposedly lightly used and maintained motor. Could happen, and does, to any motor regardless of who built it

The Op's builder would never call your family members that built motors "sloppy" regarding their engine building, he has way more class than that, and his abilities are highly regarded in motor building by many customers.

Yes a builder error could have caused this problem and Karl would be the very first to state that if the post mortem tear down can reveal that.

We don't know if the builder sent the Op a complete motor or short block the Op finished and installed. The later would open several potential possibilities that could have caused the problem

Sooo until further review I would hold off calling any builder...."sloppy"....

But back to the Op's ? for this thread. If you have a good working used LT1 short block for sale the Op could use one
 

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I've got a bare Lt1 block that has been bored .030 over, cam bearings installed and brass freeze plugs. I was going to build an engine for my '94, but lost interest and the wagon needs a motor worse than the sedan. I am about halfway between Atlanta and Birmingham right on I-20. If you want it, it's yours.
 
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