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This thread might not end well, but I thought I would ask. Are any of you using a detachable steering wheel? And if so, how does it look in your car? Also which ones are you using? I'm only just curious.

My steering wheel isn't looking it's best and I was wondering if any of you changed out your wheels to the simple black 3 spoke'd chrome one, or any other commonly designed ones. If I go that route I'd like for it to be detachable just so I don't have to use the club on the steering wheel.
 

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I wouldn't doubt it. That's why I don't want to use one. However I'd rather use something other than NOTHING at all. Besides, most of the people who live around me are too lazy to do anything if there's more than one step involved.
 

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Well there is only 1 step involved! They take a pair of bolt cutters and cut the ring on the steering wheel and then bend it open and pull the club off. Takes about 5 seconds. We have sold many steering wheels over the years because of this. LOL!

Mike--Hamilton Chevy
 

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This is why I'm looking for a detachable steering wheel.
As Mike shared, the club is pretty useless. You can also take a Hacksaw and cut through the Wheel Ring pretty quick.

I have converted over to an Aftermarket wheel and you will need to do this as well if you wish to use an adapter that allows you to remove the wheel. If you don't want to get rid of the stock wheel, then this "may" not be an option due to the AirBag setup on the stocker.

If you are okay going with an Aftermarket wheel, then this offered by Grant should be exactly what you are looking for. I have not got one of these but instead have a Fuel cutoff along with my Alarm.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/grt-2001?seid=srese1&gclid=CJv664C618oCFckWHwod1iMPcA
 

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Factory choices

I had a Corvette wheel but did the Monty Carlo / Lumina radio wheel.(95-99)

You could get the non radio wheel. I think it would still have the leather wrap and the air bag can be used. I only looked for the black radio wheel but there were other colors for the non radio ones.

I think it is just me but most aftermarket wheels look out of place in the 91-96 cars.

I think the "no wheel" will stop the joyriders but a vice grip or a clamp may get a pro on his way. A cordless drill, two self-tapping screws, and a piece of wood or metal would probably work on a removable wheel hub as a "wheel".

My philosophy of the club is that most thieves are not pros. They carry a hammer and a screwdriver. They are out for a joyride. A club and a blinking light will send the message "This is not the car you want" they will grab the next one that does not have any protection. The pros will have bolt cutters and other tools and are very hard to stop if they want a particular car. If they do not take the "hint" a hidden fuel cutoff is the best way to slow them down.

Movie theaters are the worst to park at because thieves have a good idea how much time they have to break in or steal the car. They get 90 minutes of piece and quiet between shows with very few witnesses.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks SS. This is perfect. What wheel did you choose? Do you have a photo of it with the interior? I don't mind losing the airbag at all. I'm trying to visualize a wheel that isn't too intrusive to the already "quality" styling of the OCC. It doesn't have to look exactly stock per say- but it shouldn't stick out and scream as well.

I've got a hidden fuel pump kill switch already installed. I just wanted something a little more visible as a deterrent- while at the same time getting rid of my ugly wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I had a Corvette wheel but did the Monty Carlo / Lumina radio wheel.(95-99)

You could get the non radio wheel. I think it would still have the leather wrap and the air bag can be used. I only looked for the black radio wheel but there were other colors for the non radio ones.

I think it is just me but most aftermarket wheels look out of place in the 91-96 cars.

I think the "no wheel" will stop the joyriders but a vice grip or a clamp may get a pro on his way. A cordless drill, two self-tapping screws, and a piece of wood or metal would probably work on a removable wheel hub as a "wheel".

My philosophy of the club is that most thieves are not pros. They carry a hammer and a screwdriver. They are out for a joyride. A club and a blinking light will send the message "This is not the car you want" they will grab the next one that does not have any protection. The pros will have bolt cutters and other tools and are very hard to stop if they want a particular car. If they do not take the "hint" a hidden fuel cutoff is the best way to slow them down.

Movie theaters are the worst to park at because thieves have a good idea how much time they have to break in or steal the car. They get 90 minutes of piece and quiet between shows with very few witnesses.

This is pretty much my thought process as well. I think of the club as a deterrent- not a means to an end to prevent your car from being stolen. Most of the people who live around me are too wasted/high to try an break into a car that already has another obstacle in their way. They're looking for a more direct route- as in you left your car running with the keys in it while you went to grab something.

Good point about the movie theater. I'd never even thought about it. The club was something that was bought 5 years ago, and shouldn't have been the main point of this discussion.
 

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Thanks SS. This is perfect. What wheel did you choose? Do you have a photo of it with the interior? I don't mind losing the airbag at all. I'm trying to visualize a wheel that isn't too intrusive to the already "quality" styling of the OCC. It doesn't have to look exactly stock per say- but it shouldn't stick out and scream as well.

I've got a hidden fuel pump kill switch already installed. I just wanted something a little more visible as a deterrent- while at the same time getting rid of my ugly wheel.
Post 25 of this thread will show you what I used and how I went about it.

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=302018&highlight=Grant+steering+wheel+install

I'm also not a big fan of the stock wheel/airbag setup on the B-body. I like this look so much better on an otherwise stock interior. Also having the Airbags go off when I hit a Deer made a bad deal even worse with the damage they caused. See post 21 of same thread.

Be sure to take a close look at all the posts in that thread as there is lots of info and pics of other wheels. I believe Fred also has a wago and went with some nice wood wheels on his cars. But really, once you decide to get rid of the stock wheel and use a hub, you have limitless options in the aftermarket. The only thing holding you back is your wallet and imagination. Would love to see what you come up with so post some pics here and/or in the thread I linked.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Right on SS. This is what I was looking for. Thanks again so much! Your install looked amazing, as well as your wheel choice. Not sure if I can do anything much different than what you've already seen. I'm just a college student right now- so nothing too crazy. Hopefully they have an Old's button for the horn!
 

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I have a quick disconnect for my steering wheel. I am using a MOMO and another all wood wheel. I can interchange them.

I started with a short NRG base with a Nardi/MOMO bolt pattern, then a cheapie quick disconnect (about $25) that I modified to make it work correctly, with a 10mm spacer. There were a few quirks, but a little ingenuity goes a long way.

The issues that I had to deal with was the distance between the steering wheel and the turn signal lever, and the depth of the horn button recess in the quick disconnect.
 

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Not thread jacking, just piling on. :)

I've been looking at an aftermarket wheel with a quick disconnect also.

I think the Grant 742 looks PERFECT in our cars. But I like the NRG hub and quick release. Based on what I've seen so far, it APPEARS that the following NRG hub will work with our cars, and any NRG generation quick release will fit the hub.

That takes Grant out of the picture because it's a 5 bolt mount.

ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1454382480.424452.jpg
ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1454382510.046324.jpg
ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1454382542.015007.jpg

This is the closest I could find to the look of the Grant.

ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1454382641.695515.jpg

NRG said that their hub and quick release stacked is 2.5". The Nardi wheels has a really shallow dish, but I don't have a spec on that yet.

As much as I can determine with the wheel on, our wheel has about a 3" dish.

Anyone know if that's about right?
 

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Nardi makes a couple of different dish depths. I will measure my stack and post it. I use a slight dish, and the wheel to stalk distance is the same as the original.

The NRG adapter is easier to use than the Grant part, because it does not go as far into the column, and you do not have to trim the clockspring tabs.

Here is the quick release style I used. I combined it with a 10mm spacer, and the short NRG adapter.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NRG-Steering-Wheel-Short-Hub-Adapter-DODGE-GMC-CHEVY-JEEP-SRT-4-SRK-170H-/221272703457?hash=item3384e181e1:g:IusAAOxyhs5SL5mG&vxp=mtr (this should be the right one)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-5-THIN-SHORT-STEERING-WHEEL-QUICK-RELEASE-HUB-GUNMETAL-UNIVERSAL-/161965905789?hash=item25b5eb977d:g:iAcAAOSwpzdWr9UG&vxp=mtr (Needs a small mod to make it work nicely. The pads to space the two parts collapse, and if you use some silicone to fill the gap when you get it, and before the pads collapse, it will keep the wheel firmly seated.)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steering-Wheel-Adapter-Spacer-kit-for-Momo-to-Nardi-Hub-BLACK-/161748523957?hash=item25a8f69bb5:m:mxNiA21JA8VoW3DdMXbpUDQ&vxp=mtr

Any standard dish wheel with a Nardi or MOMO bolt pattern will give the proper distance to the stalk. The deep dish or flat one will be uncomfortable. The standard dish is about 3/4 of an inch. I personally like the 360mm (14.3") diameter wheels with the thick rim. I also have a 390mm (15") wheel with a thin rim, and after you have it for a while it is also comfortable. The larger wheel makes for more accurate steering, and is the same diameter as the stock wheel. If you watch ebay, you can find some great deals for nice steering wheels. I like a little patina, because the car is not new. Most of the wheels I have owned were prices about $150-200 shipped, but the all wood one was $60 shipped from Australia. Stay away from the 320mm (13") wheels, because they are really small, and make the steering effort a lot higher, and look odd in the car.
 

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Hi Fred thanks.

I'm looking to go 360mm on my wheel as well and figured somewhere near 3/4" dish would be good.

I would really appreciate knowing your stack height and dish, and how that compares to stock. Thanks for helping us out here. This stuff is pretty confusing when you've never done it, especially when the dealers won't give you fitment info.
 

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If you use the parts list above, the stack height will be correct with a 3/4 inch dish wheel. I had to cut some of the screws to make them fit with the spacer.

I also used a Grant adapter base, and a 1 inch Nardi/MOMO adapter for my 92 OCC, and that works with a 3/4 inch dish wheel if you do not want a quick release. NRG makes a standard height adapter that should work without any additional adapters for a non-quick release.

Nardi and MOMO standard dish is 3/4 of an inch. You can get flat wheels, but they would require a 1 1/2 inch adapter for the Grant three bolt base.

I measured the grant base, and it is approximately 1 inch tall from the tapered end to the top. With a 1 inch adapter that makes the stack approximately 2 inches. If you measure from the flat part of the bottom of the Grant base, the total is approximately 1 3/4 inches. Stay in that range, and the stalk will be a comfortable distance from the wheel.
 

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Nardi makes a couple of different dish depths. I will measure my stack and post it. I use a slight dish, and the wheel to stalk distance is the same as the original.

The NRG adapter is easier to use than the Grant part, because it does not go as far into the column, and you do not have to trim the clockspring tabs.

Here is the quick release style I used. I combined it with a 10mm spacer, and the short NRG adapter.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NRG-Steering-Wheel-Short-Hub-Adapter-DODGE-GMC-CHEVY-JEEP-SRT-4-SRK-170H-/221272703457?hash=item3384e181e1:g:IusAAOxyhs5SL5mG&vxp=mtr (this should be the right one)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-5-THIN-SHORT-STEERING-WHEEL-QUICK-RELEASE-HUB-GUNMETAL-UNIVERSAL-/161965905789?hash=item25b5eb977d:g:iAcAAOSwpzdWr9UG&vxp=mtr (Needs a small mod to make it work nicely. The pads to space the two parts collapse, and if you use some silicone to fill the gap when you get it, and before the pads collapse, it will keep the wheel firmly seated.)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steering-Wheel-Adapter-Spacer-kit-for-Momo-to-Nardi-Hub-BLACK-/161748523957?hash=item25a8f69bb5:m:mxNiA21JA8VoW3DdMXbpUDQ&vxp=mtr

Any standard dish wheel with a Nardi or MOMO bolt pattern will give the proper distance to the stalk. The deep dish or flat one will be uncomfortable. The standard dish is about 3/4 of an inch. I personally like the 360mm (14.3") diameter wheels with the thick rim. I also have a 390mm (15") wheel with a thin rim, and after you have it for a while it is also comfortable. The larger wheel makes for more accurate steering, and is the same diameter as the stock wheel. If you watch ebay, you can find some great deals for nice steering wheels. I like a little patina, because the car is not new. Most of the wheels I have owned were prices about $150-200 shipped, but the all wood one was $60 shipped from Australia. Stay away from the 320mm (13") wheels, because they are really small, and make the steering effort a lot higher, and look odd in the car.
Hey Fred,

I'm looking at a 365mm as well as the 390mm Nardi. Do you have a pic of the 390mm in your car? The more I look at it, the more I want to stay stock on diameter.

Thanks
 

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I found your pic Fred, looks good.
 
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