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Autocross Springs

4958 Views 87 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  toonwarrior
My current setup:

Hotchkiss springs, bilstein shocks, spohn adjustable swaybar endlinks, BMR front and rear swaybars, BMR fixed extended length control arms upper and lower, spring perch relocated on axle adding like half an inch of ride height to the rear.

The car feels fairly planted street driving and what not, but when I took it to the course I was being thrown left and right with the roll. So it seems like the suggested advice is to go with a non-progressive spring which would be the global west 750#s.

But I've seen many mentions that if people could re-do it they would go with 800#+. I guess my question is where would I buy springs like that.

Then there's the question of ride height, what is the ideal ride height for these cars front and rear. Right now my current ride height is 27" inch rear and around 26" front. If I get the new springs for the front should I be aiming for 27"?

As for the rears, is keeping the progressive Hotchkiss rear springs ok?

Orrr do I just wait and save up for an adjustable setup.
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Yea, and the fact that only very few that install coilovers autocross their car so there isn't as much info to go off with in terms of setting the car up.

I'm just going for an OEM+ build which means:

As stock interior as possible, so this means those big couches stay
As stock exterior as possible, essentially can't change out the wheels

So that limits me to like 270/40/17s but that won't be happening till these 255 nittos are used up.

Within my limitations just trying to find the combo that can rotate my car nicely.

From what it seems like most do is:
750 + springs in the front + a shock with valving that matches the spring
Keep the rear similar to the stock SS rear spring rate as possible and go small with the rear bar.

Which is not too far off from what your setup currently is madamorr. It maybe the way I think I'll be at least experimenting with.

Best mod is a driver in control. Here is my seat mounted on Impala power seat rails. EZ to switch back to stock seat for the Highway.
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corbeau FX1 They make the seat as an FX1, Fx1 PRO and the FX1.Wide. When I bought mine Corbeau sold a mounting bracket to mate their seats to the Impala rails.
The number one thing you need for Autocroxss is seat time. The SCCA and other groups offer drivers schools for Auto X sign up and go. You will run all weekend and get dozens of runs in for your money. You do not need to spend a lot of money to have a fun car. My car sits with the bottom of the front fender 26.5 inches from the garage floor. The rear is slightly higher. Front springs are from a Dodge truck, Rears are stock with Air Lift air bags on individual valves. Shocks are currently Bilstein's, sway bars are from ADDCO. Find a class you like and build the car to the rules.
Every Caprice I've owned used the following specs on the schidtiest NY / NJ / CT / PA roads.
Minimum +4.0 degrees of Caster, preferably +5.0
-0.5 to -1.0 degree of Camber
1/8" Toe IN

Believe these are Dave Scribner's specs. Don't think Ed Runnion would mind these …
Caster Left & Right at least +4.00°
Cross Caster …… N/A° +/- 0.50°
How much positive caster is 'too much'?

Camber ……………… -0.25 +/- 0.25°
Cross Camber …… N/A° +/- 0.25°
The more aggressive your cornering, the more negative camber.

Individual Toe …… 0.00° +/- 0.00°
Total Toe ………… 0.00° +/- 0.06°
For street driving, Toe IN. If AutoCrossing, maybe a hair or two of Toe OUT?
The front end on the Caprice/Impala are not precision work. A little toe in (1/8in or so) will leave the front wheels running straight on the highway.
Using Zero toe for the track will cause the front wheels to toe out a bit. This helps turn in when on track.
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