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Discussion Starter #1
Only me, how the heck did this happen?!? I installed it into the test port on the transmission, obviously I turned it way too much. So needless to say I need to get a new sender, would #2258 or @2259 work? I'll drain the pan too, hopefully the misc debris winds up there.
 

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Obviously the 2259 is a shorter version. Not sure which sender I used,but mine is installed in that same port...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
that's what baffles me, when bolting it in the nut sat flush with the crank case, never heard or felt any sort of crunching sound. I ordered the 2258 last night, it's the same one I had before so when bolting I won't go as deep, might use a washer or 2
 

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Why would you install that very same one again? Washers? Are you kidding?
 

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Washer?

It is tapered pipe thread, the hex should never get near.

The rule of thumb with 1/8 pipe is roughly 1 1/2 to 2 turns past finger tight.
As in barely tight

I have not studied the next part in line after that pressure port, but parts in that passage are very concerning
 

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Looks like a direct path to the manual valve.

If you cant retrieve the pieces, maybe dropping the valve body is in order ?
Joel ?

Also, before you put something back in that hole, maybe measure the depth to find out how much room you have.
Also to determine you are not restricting the passage as well.

If your sender sits too deep for what ever reason , hole gooned opening the female thread up, maybe you should put a threaded bung in the pan for your sender.

Good luck
 

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Sorry, just seeing this now (a week later). On the pressure test port, just put a pan under this area and run the car for a few seconds at idle. There's a decent chance it'll just just blow everything out of that port and you'll be good to go. If not, you could try removing the manual valve (you'll have to disassemble the internal shift linkage a bit to do this), plug the pressure test port and run the car a bit (with the pan on and fluid in it) to flush out that circuit. Make sure you reconstruct that whole sender so you know there's nothing left hiding in the transmission. If you're still missing stuff, then yes, you'll need to remove the valvebody and go find the missing pieces.

If you end up removing the valvebody, it would be worth finding a local shop that has all the Sonnax valvebody leakage test plates and have them go through the valvebody and replace any worn or leaking valves. I recently had two valvebodies done at a shop near me; one valvebody was in remarkably good shape, another one needed a number of Sonnax valves to get it leak-free again. The good news is that Sonnax has pretty much engineered solutions for EVERY leak point in the 4L60E valvebody.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thats worth a shot, to see if anything does come out of the port...I ended up getting the "short" sensor, so we'll see how that goes
 
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