Here is the water temperature sender pic:
1. I used a straight piece of pipe from the cylinder head to the adapter; 1"
2. You'll need to get an adapter into the cylinder head (Where the OEM Gauge sender is).
3. Install the AutoMeter Adapter (RED) into the hardware store pipe (Rusty) adapter.
4. Thread the water temperature sender into the AutoMeter adapter.
The Oil PSI Sender (As good as I could get by squeezing my hand down in there):
The Adapter to the engine block I bought from GhettWagon, and the rest of the fittings were supplied with the AutoMeter gauge. I chose to put a piece of clear tubing over the 1/8" nylon tubing for the gauge, to give it a little resistance to any heat that is generated in that area the best I could.
I ran the lines up through the firewall (I drilled a hole for both gauges and used the AutoMeter supplied grommet to seal the firewall), and then made two service loops in case I the line got pinched or anything went wrong), and then into the gauge.
I used a 2" hole saw, and then this tool to make the cut-outs for the gauges:
Here is a pic of the F-Body sender I installed in the water pump, so I could have both the PCM and OEM dashboard gauge reading off the same place allowing me to install the AutoMeter sender in the cylinder head.
You'll need the sender as well as the 3 conductor pigtail to do this (I'll have to dig up my receipts later if you want P/Ns for this)
This is the best shot I could get with the RAISS installed.
The conductor with the heat shrink tubing goes to the factory wiring for the OEM dashboard gauge from the RH cylinder head.
Here is a picture when I first installed the gauges:
I decided to move them outward more so I could better see them while driving (In a 2nd bezel I had)
I hope this helps.