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Just an update:
....
I will post pics ASAP, as well as an update on my frankenstein sender.
Mein Gott In Himmel! Just when I'm convinced I have to be the absolute cheepest ass "repair-never-buy", along you come rebuilding 20-year old GM stuff that was marginal performance to start with when new. lol Srisly treat the old gal to all-new guts in the tank. She'll be ever so grateful maybe you don't have to fart with it for another 2 decades.
I can appreciate the gratification in re-rolling your own, but this junk is really just regular PM and seems low value to effort reusing old parts. - Especially with a boring dirty tank drop. Pump-sock-sender-harness = all in one fell swoop.


But good news it fires on ether and you know the trouble is the ass end and not the motor. But both FPR and 12v jumper tests could have told you that too. I'm not that smart but had to learn all this too. Crimp the harness connectors to the lugs real good (or solder). Ask me how I know, and how I got good at dropping a tank. ::rolleyes::


QUOTE Sherlock: I wonder what the fourth wire is for! And RockAuto says it's only for the '94-96 Fleetwood.

The 4th wire might have something to do with powering all the separate little lit bars v. just the single sweep dial on B-bodies. ?????
 

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Caddylack::
Just to be completely clear, I won't really be using any old parts. The sending unit in my wagon is a Delco unit that is basically brand new. I paid like $250 for it or whatever.

Ah so, "almost new" and $250. Thank god my ch. ass rep is safe. You know I was just razzing a fellow FWBer. Seriously, smart you're re-purposing and sounds like taking advantage of carmaker's default to commonality whenever they can pull it off.

Fred, I read up on Detroit Locker and it looks pretty slick. For Fleetwooders improving on the pegleg is tough considering the traction control. I imagine it's possible to swap out the carrier for that or another LSD, but it would also require of course resetting or changing the ring & pinion. At least (I don't think) there's no issues with reluctor(s) as those are installed on the axles, not pinion. As the least costly "posi", and without tearing the rear apart, the Powertraxx No-Slip seemed perfect. $400 and an afternoon and done. There were some impressive clunks at first when it released from being bound up, but now with it worn in only a little thunk every few months mostly real slow in a parking lot. For FW'ers, outside of always risking the TC's dreaded 'Throttle Relaxer' if gassing it too strong (and usually at the most inopportune moment with a dumptruck gaining on your ass), probably the biggest benefit is not ending up completely stranded when there's little traction (snow/ice/mud/gravel). Normally the TC instantly retards timing and slams off the accelerator at the slightest provocation whenever one wheel loses traction. In real bad conditions it ends up like all 4 brakes are locked. Sure you can turn off the TC but then it's fulltime permanent one-wheel spin, but only worse than any other one-wheel-drive car I've owned.

Now if putting a foot in it just a split-second of stall and then full lockup and zoom. I'll have the wife flip off the TC for even faster launch when crucial. Now with my black car the Auburn is dying at 75,XXX. It'll likely get a gear upgrade with an Eaton or that locker.
 

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hahaha Fred quote:
...except for hearing the screeching of the slipping tire when going around a corner,...

Seinfeld:: "Not that that's a bad thing."

Take a look at the Truetrac as well.
Interesting. Spreads load through 6 helical gears = strong. On the face of it all these sound better than LSDs using frictions. Numerous gear lockers out there, and I went did the No-Slip as it's "normally open" until tromping on it, or with even slightest less traction one side = very reassuring. I've learned to maintain steady pedal around sharp turns to avert lock-in - unless of course I decide I need to real bad "for strictly safety purposes dontchano"..... ;)
 

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Should Make Ya Feel Better -

Here's the progress I made on getting the re-re-re-built opti back on. As in not very effing much.... Shoveling for wify's Tribute's eventual escape took precedence. Of course motivated by all the usual ulterior motives:


 
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You have to 'push' the fitting in as you fit the tool on. Only hard for guys with just 2 hands.
 

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Just an update...

Obviously, the weather in the Midwest has been absolutely insane lately. Working on cars has been pretty low on my priority list. As soon as it warms up, I will get back to it..........

.

yah I feeyl yoor payne.. 4* then 55 and now this - all in < week:





More or less standard stock for the area, only morer. I'm keeping myself amused with inside projects until the silliness subsides a touch. If this ain't your driver then maybe just get to rounding up parts and hitting it in the Spring as you say.
 

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Thr RR was the one IIRC. Anyway 2 of the same side are required to fit the reconfiguration of the kit. I think you can buy sensors again aftermarket now from the parts houses. Built up from a standard plug-in section and then a separate app-specific plug to the sensor. Pricey, but luckily I haven't had to get any new ones yet.


".....but if possible try to remove the ABS sensors intact."


FTR and BTW there ain't noway nohow that's gonna happen if installed more than 6 months. They're perfectly designed for the magnet to attract iron dust and weld itself solid in the hole from expanding rust. Count on buying both new with the swap.
 

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Yep. +1. Sorry. I had my hopes up at first for something legit oem-looking. But I braced myself and clicked - and sure enough = you'd be getting exactly what you paid for. With those ends, and without a ton of bondo to feather in the leading edge, it will never look like more than an applique. Plus errone would wonder if purple lights come on under the car at night. (that last part was just mean ;) )

Here's an idea: pay a sharp body guy/girl to splice in a Cady LED trunk center mount 3rd brake light (Escalade? ETC? - I don't recall what car). Now THAT will be memorable.

As Mark says, when going through hell, - keep going. And it sounds like pretty soon your new handle will be Caddyback!
 

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And now for something (not) completely different, had you considered a 2nd gen Nexus 7? It's appreciably bigger than any phone to fill the 2-din much better, and others have installed quite a few apps in installs I've read about - including Torque. If you're not using it to outright replace the radio, then ----- Nevermind. ;)
 

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Click the 'Watch on YouTube' for a bunch more.

There might be some crossover with what's going on here:

I'll have to start being nice to Matt in case he ends up selling detailed instructions for this spiffy little mod. ;)
 

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.....What this means is that I will be building the Fleetwood axle. .....

.... My buddy is going to ship me the 9c1 backing plates, so that I can still do the rear disc conversion.
Navy Lifer's original rear disc conversion did not use B-body backing plates, and called for the oem backing plates to be machined to retain TC/ABS. That may not be a concern if you had been contemplating swapping in a complete B- rear without TC. But make sure the B- BPes are compatible with the "reluctors in axles" if wanting to retain ABS. But then there's the requirement to source another R. Side ABS cable for the left side - at least to do the mod according to NL's design.

I'm sure I made that sound more confusing than it is. Or, did I? Lol
 

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The whole oil level sensor "strategy" is a little goofy.
I'm not suggesting you replace it or delete it your choice,
if you wanted to go that route , stuff a drain plug in the hole
M20-1.50 oil plug like Dorman PN: 65221
Hey wait just a goll darned minute. I thought I've heard horror stories and wailing and gnashing of teeth with guys trying to track down phantom 'no start' or 'sputter n die' when that sensor shoots craps.

And yes impressive mung (new word for me). Maybe off the mark, but I recall a pic of build-up like that in a carmag ages ago and said it's a sign the engine isn't getting warm enough for optimal combustion or somesuch.

Lazy man ques: What's the scuttlebutt on fave brand for seals? I'm redoing lifters on the son's 383 sbc.
 

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My shop teacher in high school used the word to describe any and all automotive residue. Later in life, I saw the term used to describe period-related vaginal discharge. Apparently, the word is much more prevalent than you would expect.


Which seals?
The valve stem seals. It seems Fel-Pro and Comp Cams are the go-to names nowadays. And I had forgotten all about the O-rings in addition to the umbrellas. Old Zimers.

And do NOT look up that word on Urban Dictionary after a full meal. GDMF Rule 34 for absolutely everything I swear.
 

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....................And I had forgotten all about the O-rings in addition to the umbrellas. Old Zimers.
The Fel-Pros were recommended to me by other members, and they are dirt cheap on Rock Auto. I'm super happy with them. It was my first time doing stem seals, and they damn near put themselves in. ........
It turns out a classic case of 'You can't remember what didn't happen." I didn't recall the little o-ring seals because the Canfield heads have no second groove. And you're right. The reason I don't remember much about installing the seals at all is because they quote, "damn near put themselves in. ........" :cool:
 
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2 things:

I never caught until now you reported in your original post you're a fellow member of the Cady rear disc club. Next, why dint ya take that intake to the friend with the welder? Your case is the primo perfect case for the welder method. Especially after that custom hardened steel star shaped insert.
 

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Intake? You mean engine?

I've been advised to avoid removing the head at all costs, and I have no way of transporting an engine.

As far as the rear discs... I did edit the original post at one point, so the rear discs were likely not included the first time you read it. I probably mentioned them somewhere along the way when the parts arrived.
D'oh! Yes, head. But not gauging the issue of removing a head.

And the rear discs had to be about the greatest single mod to my last FWB. Outside of all the body and paint, that is. I had already done the rear Metering Bolt Mod with the regular shoes, but the discs permitted the front Prop. Bolt Mod, and that plus the disc's 'non-energizing' flat pedal was an exhilarating upgrade. Coming to stops it squated down on its ass and zero dive just like my SS. I was tempted to remove it all and stick under my current driver, but felt it only fair to leave for the new owner. I hate when I'm nice like that.
 
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Crime inna farkin' nettlie! Quite the data infusion since I last checked this thread. It doesn't just appear very disconcerting all the switcho- changeo- and glib dismissal you've gotten; it actually IS very disconcerting all that you've been getting. Glad to hear you're on the mend in a way, which could be largely a psychological function of the positive progress of those approved referrals and seeming interest those care providers are showing. I know you know not to ease up the inertia and pressure you've induced so far on them, and keep a full head of steam on their tails after pictures and tests are in.

IDK Medicaid, but with Medicare I get annual full panel blood tests, and if anywhere near the same I'm curious that ZERO of your symptoms would not translate to off-kilter readings of at some of the chemistries. Keep up looped on statuses and suchlike. I've now changed my 'Follow' to 'Follow With e-mail notice' eh.

And adding a dampt to hell about the neighbor's death. Unnerving for sure.
 

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The new helmet can do double duty. To further help them get their heads outta their aaaaes you ought to wear it to your next appointment for that scan with, "Well I guess I'll need a face covering since everyone finally decided to find out that I'm officially immune-compromised."

Sports equipment Helmet Sports gear Smile Violet


Best thoughts on a favorable reading.
 
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My friend said the same thing.

What I actually had was a drill, a wire wheel, and a Bret Weinstein podcast. It went pretty well.

View attachment 206100

They are what they are: A set of functional headers that will get my build finished.
Yours turned out rather well. DIY's are always the most rewarding. Not to mention cheapest! For a set of old SLP CARB-compliant headers for my son's project car I bolted a spare elec. motor to the bench, and made up wire & polish wheels - plus the same for a handheld drill, and got everything pretty decent for spraycan ceramic paint and then cured in the oven. And yes, wife tried like hell to get really p.o.ed, but there was zero smell afterward. And that made her even madder. But I just smiled. It's always good when a young boy can see his pop win one of those. Well, at least a draw.

After 13 years still not too bad, and the pic is not to brag but more to show I share your shame in having that ugly-a A.I.R tube. Sorry for the semi-hyjack, and yours is coming along:

Car Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design Automotive fuel system
 
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Oh forgot one reason I added my pic is wondering if you've powdercoated your intake as I did.

Aaaaaaand, I snipped this from your earlier post:
"The Fleetwood is going to be my designated tow rig when it is complete, and that means making some suspension changes.

I think the Monroe SS shocks will be too stiff, at least in the rear. The 9c1 coils can probably stay. Maybe I should change the shocks and add some helper bags that I can adjust.
"

I put my current driver together with intent on not quite as much priority on 'road feel' and corner carver as old FTSS. So instead of sacked-out SS coils and Bilsteins all around I chose to leave the wimpy FE1 oem coils (but did cut 1/3 coil off = 1" drop), and the Monroe Severe Service (nicknamed by many 'poor man's Bilsteins'). I was chided by an old suspension standby on here and came to agree with him that those Monroes have harder compression valving, which translated for me into an average rougher ride. Those shocks are only 4 years old now, but looking for any excuse to change them out to Bilsteins even with keeping those oem coils. I've had the Airlift 1000 bladders on both cars and those are a must-have.
In all fairness if you keep the 15" with taller /65 sidewalls it will make (at least keep) things cushier as well v. my /55es on 18" setup.
Final thought: as a towcar though I'd highly recommend aftermarket LCAs and SS stab bars for stability with no negatives to ride comfort. If you haven't already.
 
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