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Well I'll be, the fleetwood sending unit in the Rock Auto catalog has four wires coming out of it! I wonder what the fourth wire is for! And RockAuto says it's only for the '94-96 Fleetwood. Learn something new every day.

Yes, the second ground (black wire w/ white stripe) is a dedicated ground for the fuel gauge, however there is some debate as to how important it is. I encountered it when I did all the upgrades to my fuel system, which in turn led me to learning how to put together weather-pack and metri-pack connectors from scratch plus the acquisition of some new tools for doing so. I kept the dedicated ground, others have combined the two grounds and claimed no ill effect, I maintain that there had to be a reason why they did it that way but to my knowledge no one has definitively solved it either way. On the newest iteration of the racetronix upgrades, they use the normally unused 4th wire (all b-bodies) to run a second dedicated +12v for higher performance applications.


The Fleetwood would have difficulty adapting to this, but I suspect if you knew what you were doing you could run the main ground direct to the sending unit inside, and then from the outside to the factory grounding point. I suspect some welding and/or soldering would be involved. Some vehicles are already grounded that way, especially cars with metal tanks (ours obviously aren't), then you could still have the dedicated ground to the gauge and also have the dual hot wires. Since you're mainly going for a stock or mild build, you won't have to mess with that. Since my build changed I've been debating on going back in and seeing if I can run dual pumps in the tank which would call for a second hot wire at which point I would have to cross that bridge.
 

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Glad to see you're not pussy footin around about this. We need to keep them alive. At one time I thought of alarms and remote start but I keep hearing of all the troubles they cause. I'm thinking I may go a different route on security. Keep it coming.

Mark: Snowman-33
My security system is a quick disconnect for my steering wheel. I believe that if my car is obviously not driveable, the would be thief will quickly move on to an easier target.

The humorous part of it is the stares one gets walking around with a steering wheel, although you could just put it in the rear footwell.
 

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1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
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Discussion Starter #23
Yesterday I attempted to finish the fuel pump swap, and ended up losing my patience screwing around with the quick disconnects. I can't get the tool to slide into the fitting, no matter what size I use.
 

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You have to 'push' the fitting in as you fit the tool on. Only hard for guys with just 2 hands.
 

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Yesterday I attempted to finish the fuel pump swap, and ended up losing my patience screwing around with the quick disconnects. I can't get the tool to slide into the fitting, no matter what size I use.
I used the metal type disconnect. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-quick-disconnect-tool-set-38732.html One of the tabs that hold the hose to the tubing was bent a little. I fought it and then just used the tool and a rubber mallet to tap it in enough. YMMV. A third or fourth hand would have helped though.
The answer is out there.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
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Discussion Starter #26
Just an update...

Obviously, the weather in the Midwest has been absolutely insane lately. Working on cars has been pretty low on my priority list. As soon as it warms up, I will get back to it.

Also, just to throw it out there: If any of you guys are looking for side work and you are within driving distance of northern Illinois, shoot me a PM. We can probably work something out. This car needs a whole bunch of labor hours thrown at it. Trans, rear end, suspension, etc.
 

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Yesterday I attempted to finish the fuel pump swap, and ended up losing my patience screwing around with the quick disconnects. I can't get the tool to slide into the fitting, no matter what size I use.
Put some WD40 on the quick disconnects, then try pushing the tool in. If you have the X style, the larger end is for the pressure line, and the smaller is for the return.

There is a spring in the end, and it can get dirty and rusty. It will "give" when it is inserted. I push the tool in, then hold the tank line and push the delivery line off with the tool.
 

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Just an update...

Obviously, the weather in the Midwest has been absolutely insane lately. Working on cars has been pretty low on my priority list. As soon as it warms up, I will get back to it..........

.

yah I feeyl yoor payne.. 4* then 55 and now this - all in < week:





More or less standard stock for the area, only morer. I'm keeping myself amused with inside projects until the silliness subsides a touch. If this ain't your driver then maybe just get to rounding up parts and hitting it in the Spring as you say.
 

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1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
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Discussion Starter #29
There has been a slight change of plans. In a good way.

When I first made this thread, the Fleetwood was intended to be nothing more than a weekend toy. I was planning to essentially throw a car together using all of the random parts I have laying around. This is why I was okay with putting a spool in the rear, etc.

I recently managed to bend the frame in my Trailblazer (long story, don't ask). As a result, the Fleetwood is getting promoted from "weekend toy" to "my baby". This upcoming week, I will be acquiring some goodies from a forum member. These goodies include:


  • Tri-Y headers (ceramic coated)
  • LT4 hot cam
  • Auburn Pro Series posi
  • Monroe SS front shocks
  • Reman AC Delco steering box (quick ratio)
  • Fleetwood grille & headlight housing (the last cosmetic pieces that I need)
The punchline is that the Fleetwood is going to be my daily driver, and I am going to be making it a little bit nicer than I originally planned. Now can I get a little sunshine?
 

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LT4 hot cam = NO! NO! NO!

You'll get that from a lot of us though. It's meant for a car that weighs a lot less than a b-body, let alone a d-body. All top end hp, no low end torque. The only way you could possibly get that to work would be with a really high stall converter and a tune, but even then there are better choices. I toyed with putting one in my LT1 swapped S10 Blazer, but ultimately decided that was even too heavy for it, (just shy of 4000#). Plenty of guys on here can offer suggestions on cam selection. Unless it's free, I'd pass and even then I wouldn't be surprised if your were ultimately unhappy with how the car performs, especially in a daily.
 

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1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
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Discussion Starter #31
The only way you could possibly get that to work would be with a really high stall converter and a tune
Aren't you being a bit dramatic?

I understand that the hot cam lacks a bit off the line, but guys have been running this cam in b-bodies for, what, 20+ years? I will have 3.73's and a 2600 stall with low profile tires, so I think I will be fine. There is no way I would spend $400 on a nice cam to put in a 180k mile LT1. I can buy an LQ4 at the junkyard for $199.

The hot cam is basically free, and I feel like it's better than nothing. At the very least, it will make my car sound really cool at idle.
 

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If it's free, knock your self out. We're all free to do whatever we like. There's a cadre of old timers on this forum though who've been trying to steer unsuspecting folks away from that cam for what, 20+ years? It sounds like you've got every supporting mod in place or going in place, minus a tune. Or maybe you have a tune and it's mentioned further back in the thread, (I haven't read the entire thing). If nothing else I will say (and this would be from my own experience on my Fleetwood), you'd be surprised how good the car is with a stock cam once you've got headers, exhaust, rear-end gearing, a high stall converter and a tune, so if there's anyway to try it all before putting in the cam I'd recommend it, but I ain't your daddy and you are absolutely entitled to make your own decisions. Lord knows I don't always take advice when it's offered. I've given my opinion, I wish you the best with your project and I look forward to seeing what you've got once it's finished. I do love me a nice sleeper Fleetwood. :grin2:
 

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1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
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Discussion Starter #33
schlicky13 said:
It sounds like you've got every supporting mod in place or going in place, minus a tune.
I can't imagine building a car like this without tuning it. Yes, the car will be road-tuned on 93 octane as soon as I get it put together.

schlicky13 said:
I do love me a nice sleeper Fleetwood. :grin2:
My Fleetwood is going to be murdered out with a choppy idle... I don't think the word "sleeper" will apply. :grin2:
 

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1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
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Discussion Starter #34
Hey guys. I picked up all of those parts that I mentioned before. Just waiting for the weather to cooperate a little bit.

In the meantime, I am pondering converting to rear discs. It looks like all of the parts are available cheap on Rock Auto except for the backing plates.
 

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I think you can reuse your backplates, possibly with a modification to them. You need them anyways for the ABS sensors, Fleetwoods have the 4-channel system with a sensor at each wheel, while the rest of the b-bodies have a 3-channel system with a single sensor in the rear carrier. I believe supplies of new backplates is nearly if not completely dried up. Navy Lifer still had a couple last I checked with him, but I still haven't gotten to that since I'm still working on the motor and plan to swap the entire rear axle (long story, there are different carriers depending on what gear ratio you have and I can't put better gears in without doing that, or running a ring gear spacer which I don't want to do). I don't believe you switch to the Impala backplates for that swap, unless you can add the hole for the ABS sensor to them. I know all the info is on here, just haven't looked at any of it in a couple years.
 

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1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
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Discussion Starter #36
I think you can reuse your backplates, possibly with a modification to them. You need them anyways for the ABS sensors, Fleetwoods have the 4-channel system with a sensor at each wheel, while the rest of the b-bodies have a 3-channel system with a single sensor in the rear carrier. I believe supplies of new backplates is nearly if not completely dried up. Navy Lifer still had a couple last I checked with him, but I still haven't gotten to that since I'm still working on the motor and plan to swap the entire rear axle (long story, there are different carriers depending on what gear ratio you have and I can't put better gears in without doing that, or running a ring gear spacer which I don't want to do). I don't believe you switch to the Impala backplates for that swap, unless you can add the hole for the ABS sensor to them. I know all the info is on here, just haven't looked at any of it in a couple years.
I will be deleting the ABS system and launching it into outer space.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
The caliper bracket bolts to the backing plate, and I don't think the drum brake backing plates are capable of that.

Can somebody verify?
 

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The caliper bracket bolts to the backing plate, and I don't think the drum brake backing plates are capable of that.

Can somebody verify?

Been there, done that.

The 4-channel ABS, if you're retaining ABS function, requires the 2 separate hydraulic lines. See item 14. below.

Cadillac Fleetwood rear DISC brake conversion
(fits 1993-96 D-body cars with 4-channel ABS system)

Parts required to replace existing parts in rear drum brake system with OE discs from 94-96 Impala SS/Caprice 9C1:

1. Calipers & pads (1 of each item)
Caliper, OE LH & RH
Pad kit, OE FMSI D628 (1)

2. Caliper bracket, OE (2) (can be substituted by Dorman/NAPA)
For RPO JL9, from 9C1 (or) WX3 (black)

3. Caliper guide pin, boot & caliper pin bolt, OE (4 of each item)

4. Backing plate (caliper mount & park brake), OE (2) (modified for Fleetwood 4-channel ABS, LH with special spacer attached)

5. Park brake kit, OE (1 per car鈥攑art of item 4 with new plates)

NOTE: Items 1 thru 3 and items 4 & 5 are pre-assembled units

6. Fastener & washer for caliper bracket attachment, OE (4 of each item)

7. Park brake cable guide, OE鈥攆or right side only (1)

8. Bolt for cable guide / brake hose bracket retention, OE (2)

9. Brake hose鈥攁ttaches to caliper, OE (2--1 of each item, L/R)

10. Park brake cable, OE (2--1 of each item, L/R)

11. Sensor & cable, OE (1) (installs on left side in place of existing sensor)

12. Differential cover gasket, OE鈥攔evised design (1)

13. Strap to secure parking brake cable to axle tube (2)

14. Brake lines鈥擣leetwood special for rear disc conversion, in stainless material (made by Classic Tube)

Items not supplied with kit

15. Rotor (2) uses rotors for 94-96 Impala SS or Caprice 9C1
19195722 Rear rotor GM Durastop 18A656 OR EQUIVALENT

16. Differential lube/additive

17. Brake fluid

I pulled this from another post, it appears that I was incorrect on reusing the Fleetwood backplates. Not sure where I got that from, my apologies on that.
 

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NavyLifer also sells a lot of the stuff needed to do the swap, but last I knew he was almost completely out of new backing plates and probably is by now. I got in touch with him a couple years ago but still haven't moved forward on the swap. I think he has a source for brand new custom made brake lines to make the swap easier. I think you said you were getting rid of the ABS, but if possible try to remove the ABS sensors intact. One of them hasn't been made in years and is unobtanium at this point and would be worth $$$ to someone, I forget which side though, I'll try to find that out.


Edit - It's the right rear that's unavailable at this time. Rear left is still around and both fronts are still around. They must have another application that's kept them in demand, but the right rear is hard to find and they're hard to remove intact. Alternately, since you won't need the backplates, you could leave the sensors installed and sell them as a whole so you won't have to risk removing them. They tend to swell a little with age, especially if you live in the rust belt making them virtually impossible to extract unharmed.
 
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