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New fun idea as the refunds are coming in.
$$$$$$$$ It never ?s

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
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Discussion Starter #62
Question: How many supercharged Fleetwoods are there in existence? I am only aware of two. There is the one drag car in Japan, and there is also one on the Procharger website.
 

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1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
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Discussion Starter #63
I've been searching for off-road hookup pipes for my headers, and have finally come to a solution. I ordered a pair of universal female ball flanges, and I am going to have a buddy weld in some pipe. The female flanges will attach to the male flanges on the tri-y's, and I told my buddy he can just weld the other end of the pipe directly to my catback. Really no need to use a flange on that end.


The next decision I need to make is who is going to tune the car. Brian Vorpahl can road tune it, but he lives a couple of hours from me, and I'm not sure if he will want to drive all the way to me. With an aftermarket cam, I figure the car will not be drivable until it is tuned. My other option would be to have Solomon tune it through email, in combination with data logging that I would do myself. Eventually I want to learn how to tune myself, but now is not really the time for me to practice. I need the car on the road.
 

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If you have the cam's detailed specs, PCM Performance can handle it by email as well.
 

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1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
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Discussion Starter #65
PCM Performance is the most expensive option. However, they do offer a full money-back guarantee if you aren't satisfied. Most tuners do not give refunds, and honestly, I don't blame them. Considering the age of these cars, there is always the possibility that drivability issues are caused by faulty parts (opti, o2 sensors, clogged cats, etc.).
 

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Discussion Starter #66 (Edited)
These showed up.
I also got Percy's carbon gaskets.
IMG_20200321_115740820.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Those Eaton M122 blowers are a direct bolt-on for all of the newer Northstar cars. So, the STS, XLR, Bonneville, and Lucerne could all be supercharged. It would be nice to pick up a base model STS V8 and put a $300 blower on it. With exhaust and tuning, it would be a 500 horse rwd Cadillac that you could drive daily. I actually prefer the styling of the STS over the CTS.
 

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On tuning, if your engine is still the configuration it was on the first page, even with the blower, that's a pretty standard combination that you get upload a base tune for and then drive it wherever you needed while keeping it out of boost. I didn't see a note on fuel injectors but I would ditch the stock LT1 injectors sooner rather than later, or get refurbs.
 

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1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
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Discussion Starter #69
If the supercharger happens, it will be later on. For now, the car will only have the mods outlined in my opening post. The only mods to the engine will be the hot cam, the 1.6 rockers, and the valve springs. So, yeah, I figured it would be possible to get a base tune to make the car drivable.

Will definitely upgrade injectors at some point. This car is going to happen in stages. With 180k on the engine and my foot not getting any lighter, this first setup obviously won't last forever.
 

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Do a compression and leakdown test on the motor and see how it's doing. Mine was in pretty good shape at 170k, and the bores looked great. I pulled the crank and took it to a machine shop for measuring, and he said put new main and rod bearings in it and roll. I also ported the oil pump, rear main cap, oil cooler adapter and block oil filter ports with a dremel, put it all back together with a new timing chain, stem seals and valvesprings and we're good to go. Another tip while the engine's out - sleeve the front and rear of the crankshaft as the oil seals have surely worn a groove in the crank. The sleeves and tools are available cheap from Rock Auto.

If you do take the heads off, you can pull the rotating assembly and have new cam bearings put in for cheap at a local machine shop, then you have all new bearings which will help even more with oil pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Do a compression and leakdown test on the motor and see how it's doing. Mine was in pretty good shape at 170k, and the bores looked great. I pulled the crank and took it to a machine shop for measuring, and he said put new main and rod bearings in it and roll. I also ported the oil pump, rear main cap, oil cooler adapter and block oil filter ports with a dremel, put it all back together with a new timing chain, stem seals and valvesprings and we're good to go. Another tip while the engine's out - sleeve the front and rear of the crankshaft as the oil seals have surely worn a groove in the crank. The sleeves and tools are available cheap from Rock Auto.

If you do take the heads off, you can pull the rotating assembly and have new cam bearings put in for cheap at a local machine shop, then you have all new bearings which will help even more with oil pressure.
Just to be a bit more specific about my situation...

I have a total of three LT1's. Two of them run and have 180k miles, and one is a core. So, I am going to be building my next engine on the side while I get a few more miles out of the current one.

As far as swapping heads... We will see how many exhaust manifold bolts break off below the surface.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Some things have become clear to me as far as the order of events around here...

At the moment, I have the gas tank out and the shocks unbolted from the axle. While the car is in this position, I really need to do my upper control arms. Just for the sake of elbow room.

Also, I have officially given up on trying to pick up this 9c1 axle from my friend. I don't have an adequate vehicle at the moment, and I have not been able to figure anything out. It's a bit of a drive. What this means is that I will be building the Fleetwood axle. With that in mind, I should really just build the axle now while I've already got it mostly unbolted. I want to do it on jack stands. My buddy is going to ship me the 9c1 backing plates, so that I can still do the rear disc conversion.
 

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.....What this means is that I will be building the Fleetwood axle. .....

.... My buddy is going to ship me the 9c1 backing plates, so that I can still do the rear disc conversion.
Navy Lifer's original rear disc conversion did not use B-body backing plates, and called for the oem backing plates to be machined to retain TC/ABS. That may not be a concern if you had been contemplating swapping in a complete B- rear without TC. But make sure the B- BPes are compatible with the "reluctors in axles" if wanting to retain ABS. But then there's the requirement to source another R. Side ABS cable for the left side - at least to do the mod according to NL's design.

I'm sure I made that sound more confusing than it is. Or, did I? Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #74
I am not retaining ABS or TC. As long as the calipers line up with the rotors, I'm good.
 

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Question: How many supercharged Fleetwoods are there in existence? I am only aware of two. There is the one drag car in Japan, and there is also one on the Procharger website.
In theory mine will be, that is if this other nonsense ever ends. I've been working on supporting mods since I got the car (exhaust, Torqhead 24x install, built transmission, fuel system, etc). I have a procharger on hand and the kit to install it, I have a head and cam package for boost from Lloyd Elliot on hand, and I have the money saved up to order a boost built block from Karl Ellwein, but I've been holding off putting in the order until I know we're past this covid crap, just in case I wind up having to live off that money for a little while. I'd planned to have the engine by now and considering the weather has just started warming up I figured I'd be elbow deep into the install by now. But perhaps later this year I'll have it on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Yesterday I undercoated the trunk area in preparation for putting the tank back in. It went pretty well.

I started by grinding everything down with a wire brush, and then primed. I used the Rust-Oleum rubberized undercoating on top of that. It was my first time using this stuff. It could have come out prettier, but I'm happy with it. There's a reason I practiced on the trunk area. For those of you who have not used this stuff before, one thing I would mention is that it is VERY water-based. In the areas where I put it on a little bit too thick, it dripped water.

The rubberized stuff was still drying when I went to bed last night. I will snap a pic when I go back out there. I am going to put the gas tank back in today, and then I will be ready to turn the key. Fingers crossed she starts and runs good.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Tank is in. Shocks are bolted up. Car is on the ground. As soon as I get some gas, I'm pretty sure she's a runner.

Can't wait to get rid of that wheel gap in the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
This ************ RUNS!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Just a few notes...

There has been a lot of discussion over the years about the best way to go about R&Ring the fuel pump. Some folks have even elected to cut an access hole in the trunk floor. Now that I've fooled around with more than one gas tank, I feel like I have a pretty good understanding of the best way to do it. There is no need to cut an access hole. The job is no big deal once you understand how everything goes together. My method goes something like this:
  • Jack up the rear of the car as high as you are safely and comfortably able. Remove one of the rear wheels.
  • Disconnect the straps at the rear (closest to the rear bumper). Lower tank. Disconnect lines.
  • Disconnect straps at the front, completely removing them from the car.
  • R&R pump, sender, etc.
  • Reconnect straps at the rear first. Slide tank into position. Connect lines.
  • Get underneath the tank, on your back, with your head towards the front of the car, and your feet sticking out the rear.
  • Wrestle tank and straps into position. Start front strap bolts by hand, then tighten with socket.
  • Connect filler neck hose, vent hose, and wiring harness.
  • Put wheel back on. Lower car. Fill tank.
People always debate whether you should disconnect the straps at the front or the rear, but the truth is you will make the job 10x easier if you do it in this order and remove the straps.

Also, some may have noticed that I abandoned the Frankenstein sender I was playing with earlier in the thread. The bottom line is that this has just become a much more thorough build than originally planned.

One more thing for you Fleetwood guys: If your trunk pulldown doesn't work, you need Delco part number 16629927. It's cheap on Rock Auto, and fixes the problem instantly. R&R involves 1 screw.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
My day ended when I realized this crank hub wasn't coming off without a puller.
 

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