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New fun idea as the refunds are coming in.
$$$$$$$$ It never 馃洃s

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
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Discussion Starter #62
Question: How many supercharged Fleetwoods are there in existence? I am only aware of two. There is the one drag car in Japan, and there is also one on the Procharger website.
 

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1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
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Discussion Starter #63
I've been searching for off-road hookup pipes for my headers, and have finally come to a solution. I ordered a pair of universal female ball flanges, and I am going to have a buddy weld in some pipe. The female flanges will attach to the male flanges on the tri-y's, and I told my buddy he can just weld the other end of the pipe directly to my catback. Really no need to use a flange on that end.


The next decision I need to make is who is going to tune the car. Brian Vorpahl can road tune it, but he lives a couple of hours from me, and I'm not sure if he will want to drive all the way to me. With an aftermarket cam, I figure the car will not be drivable until it is tuned. My other option would be to have Solomon tune it through email, in combination with data logging that I would do myself. Eventually I want to learn how to tune myself, but now is not really the time for me to practice. I need the car on the road.
 

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If you have the cam's detailed specs, PCM Performance can handle it by email as well.
 

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1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
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Discussion Starter #65
PCM Performance is the most expensive option. However, they do offer a full money-back guarantee if you aren't satisfied. Most tuners do not give refunds, and honestly, I don't blame them. Considering the age of these cars, there is always the possibility that drivability issues are caused by faulty parts (opti, o2 sensors, clogged cats, etc.).
 

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Discussion Starter #66 (Edited)
These showed up.
I also got Percy's carbon gaskets.
IMG_20200321_115740820.jpg
 

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1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
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Discussion Starter #67
Those Eaton M122 blowers are a direct bolt-on for all of the newer Northstar cars. So, the STS, XLR, Bonneville, and Lucerne could all be supercharged. It would be nice to pick up a base model STS V8 and put a $300 blower on it. With exhaust and tuning, it would be a 500 horse rwd Cadillac that you could drive daily. I actually prefer the styling of the STS over the CTS.
 

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On tuning, if your engine is still the configuration it was on the first page, even with the blower, that's a pretty standard combination that you get upload a base tune for and then drive it wherever you needed while keeping it out of boost. I didn't see a note on fuel injectors but I would ditch the stock LT1 injectors sooner rather than later, or get refurbs.
 

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1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
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Discussion Starter #69
If the supercharger happens, it will be later on. For now, the car will only have the mods outlined in my opening post. The only mods to the engine will be the hot cam, the 1.6 rockers, and the valve springs. So, yeah, I figured it would be possible to get a base tune to make the car drivable.

Will definitely upgrade injectors at some point. This car is going to happen in stages. With 180k on the engine and my foot not getting any lighter, this first setup obviously won't last forever.
 

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Do a compression and leakdown test on the motor and see how it's doing. Mine was in pretty good shape at 170k, and the bores looked great. I pulled the crank and took it to a machine shop for measuring, and he said put new main and rod bearings in it and roll. I also ported the oil pump, rear main cap, oil cooler adapter and block oil filter ports with a dremel, put it all back together with a new timing chain, stem seals and valvesprings and we're good to go. Another tip while the engine's out - sleeve the front and rear of the crankshaft as the oil seals have surely worn a groove in the crank. The sleeves and tools are available cheap from Rock Auto.

If you do take the heads off, you can pull the rotating assembly and have new cam bearings put in for cheap at a local machine shop, then you have all new bearings which will help even more with oil pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Do a compression and leakdown test on the motor and see how it's doing. Mine was in pretty good shape at 170k, and the bores looked great. I pulled the crank and took it to a machine shop for measuring, and he said put new main and rod bearings in it and roll. I also ported the oil pump, rear main cap, oil cooler adapter and block oil filter ports with a dremel, put it all back together with a new timing chain, stem seals and valvesprings and we're good to go. Another tip while the engine's out - sleeve the front and rear of the crankshaft as the oil seals have surely worn a groove in the crank. The sleeves and tools are available cheap from Rock Auto.

If you do take the heads off, you can pull the rotating assembly and have new cam bearings put in for cheap at a local machine shop, then you have all new bearings which will help even more with oil pressure.
Just to be a bit more specific about my situation...

I have a total of three LT1's. Two of them run and have 180k miles, and one is a core. So, I am going to be building my next engine on the side while I get a few more miles out of the current one.

As far as swapping heads... We will see how many exhaust manifold bolts break off below the surface.
 
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