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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Well, my game plan for the products I just listed has changed. As it turns out, the Mastercoat stuff is going to stretch longer than I expected (yay). I'm going to do the entire frame with the rust sealer.

On the inside, the entire floor pan will be coated in rubberized sound deadening stuff.
 

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You may want to consider some of this too. Eastwood Internal Frame Coating Aerosol Spray (14-oz.) I used it on the inside of my frame. I think I used 2 or 3 cans. It covers pretty good and should take care of my concerns with the internal rust. I don't have the salt problems other states have but I'm relieved of the worry.
Drive on

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
You may want to consider some of this too. Eastwood Internal Frame Coating Aerosol Spray (14-oz.) I used it on the inside of my frame. I think I used 2 or 3 cans. It covers pretty good and should take care of my concerns with the internal rust. I don't have the salt problems other states have but I'm relieved of the worry.
Drive on

Mark: Snowman-33
I am planning to use something like that for the inside of the frame. I may stick with the Mastercoat brand, though, based on how pleased I am so far with their stuff.

Below are a couple pics of the frame after being coated with Rust Sealer. Note that the core support is still wet in these pics. I've also included a picture of the floor pan from yesterday that I forgot to post. The first stage of floor pan cleaning is complete. I'm going to hit it with some brake cleaner and then I will be ready to undercoat.

Almost time to get back to the mechanical stuff!
 

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I got you on the Mastercoat. I bought some of their Hot Jet, Mastercoat Hot Jet High Heat Exhaust Coating - DIY and save money! for my headers and the Eastwood interior exhaust coating. I'm trying to keep the heat down under the hood and send it out the back. The Eastwood stuff is good. I sprayed the inside and then had to weld a little on the collector. It just browned it some.
I had to chuckle a little bit looking at your pics. Looking at the underneath passenger side of the trans tunnel. I thought you had a Band-Aid on it. At first glance.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
Floor pan is done.

I ran out of rust sealer before I finished the frame, but I got as far back as just before the rear axle. Just a heads up: you do NOT want to get this stuff on your hands. I don't know what I was thinking. Acetone is like water to this stuff!

On the bright side, I will get another 20 years out of my hands before I have to worry about rust.
 

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Cool project man. I always liked these Lt1 fleetwoods. They make really badass lowriders too. I seen a few 2dr conversions done on these. The Lt1 in my Caprice came out of a 95 Fleetwood. Me and my dad pulled it with seatbelt straps at the junkyard. Good memories. I had a hard time figuring out the harness cuz like you I could only find b-body schematics. I ended up cutting a b-body under hood fuse box and wiring it in. Subtle differences between those big bodies.
Anyways, good luck and I will be tuned in for the progress.
 
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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
I forgot to mention...

The AutoZone by my house doesn't sell rust reformer. They do sell another product made by Loctite, and I decided to give it a shot. It wasn't what I expected. It turned out to be more of a chemical treatment than a paint. It was still a decent product, but definitely not a replacement for rust reformer.

Speaking of rust reformer... it seems that I screwed up by coating my cross member with it before using the mastercoat. The mastercoat top coat is so strong that it basically just melted the rust reformer and created air bubbles. Oh well, live and learn.
 

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Morning Matt, Your situation on the paint makes me think of my trials & tribulations. I have a lot of "Live and Learn" and the pile is growing. I had a "plan" and then after research and learning things went a different way. I guess that's one reason my build is approaching the 5 year mark. Hang in there baby.

Best to all on this 4th of July, God Bless America

Mark: Snowman-33
 
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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
Morning Matt, Your situation on the paint makes me think of my trials & tribulations. I have a lot of "Live and Learn" and the pile is growing. I had a "plan" and then after research and learning things went a different way. I guess that's one reason my build is approaching the 5 year mark. Hang in there baby.

Best to all on this 4th of July, God Bless America

Mark: Snowman-33
It seems that is the nature of the beast.

Doing most of this stuff for the first time, I'm learning on the fly. As a result, I'm constantly thinking about my next project. Every mistake I make, every lesson I learn... it will ultimately improve the quality of my work in the future.

Current events: I'm sitting at the kitchen table wrapping my engine harness with the fancy Tesa harness wrap. After wrapping, I will put some of the wire looms back on, and use the metallic heat shield tape in the places that need it. After that, the next order of business is getting my control arms in order. Replacing bushings, replacing ball joints, wire brushing, and then coating in the mastercoat gloss black. THEN, it will be time to put the new front end together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 · (Edited)
How time flies...

I'm back at it, finally. The engine harness is pretty much done. Wire brushed all 4 front control arms, punched out the factory rivets, and started painting the uppers. The gloss black chassis stuff that I got from Mastercoat apparently got messed up from being in my garage in the extreme cold. At least I'm assuming that's the cause, but basically it hardened. Oh well, I guess it's plan B.

I first coated them in Rust Reformer, and then two coats of one of the specialty rustoleum paints... It's a matte metallic called "Oil-rubbed bronze". So far really liking it.

I was lucky enough to score a BMR front sway bar at the yard recently. I wire brushed it, coated with Rust Reformer, and then hit it with three coats of gloss cherry red.

When this stuff dries I will post some pics. The next thing I have to do is rent the tool from AutoZone so I can do my ball joints and bushings.

For right now I'm going to leave the upper bushings alone. They are still in good shape, and are a bitch to replace. These bushings will be the only wear part in the entire front end that isn't new. Once I bolt up these control arms, then it's time to assemble the new front end.

Another score I had at the yard was an old style v-shaped Caddy crest from the trunklid of a 78 Deville. This is a big chunk of solid metal that mounts with two pegs. I'm going to drill 2 holes in my trunklid and install this beneath the key hole.

I wanted to make sure I had some nice sway bar hardware, so I took one of my BMR bolts to the hardware store and had them match it. I got some nice grade 12 bolts that were cheap enough that I got a couple dozen of them. If anyone would like a set, shoot me a PM and I will send you 4 bolts free of charge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
Uppers are in. Painting lowers now.

I will post a pic of the BMR bar later this evening. I think it came out great.

Front end will be together in the next few days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
BMR front sway bar is dry.

Pondering what to do with these old rusty SS coils that I have for the front. Right now I'm thinking I wire brush and clean them and then maybe just one healthy coat of rubberized undercoating. I figure I need something flexible for the springs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
Wire brushed and sanded the front coils. Sprayed them with one coat of rust reformer, and then two coats of rubberized undercoating. I felt like two was necessary just due to the weird angles involved in painting coil springs.

I may start assembling this stuff today. I need to tidy the garage a bit just so I have a clean work area, but other than that I'm ready.
 

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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
Nice - Love the silver!
I'm really happy with it. Technically it's just a "rust sealer" and not a top coat. I ended up liking the durable silver finish and decided to save the money and just leave it that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
I just wanted to post a better pic for my own documentation.

I've got to grab an engine stand from harbor freight so I can start the engine portion of this process. First I will take off all of the accessories and whatnot, then I will do a preliminary wire brushing and cleaning just so my work space is reasonably clean. Then, I remove the intake and take care of the internal engine stuff. This will consist of the hot cam, 1.6 rockers, valve springs, and valve stem seals. I'm reusing the original lifters, locks, and retainers. I'm also going to replace the rear main seal, just as preventative maintenance.

Once the engine is buttoned up mechanically, then I do my final cleaning in preparation for paint. The block and heads will be Chevy orange. The intake will be ceramic coated silver, and the valve covers will be flat black.

The trans and driveshaft are just sitting here ready to go. The very last steps will be the rear end and rear brakes. Then it gets tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
The lifters and pushrods are soaking in acetone. Lots of random stuff is getting wire brushed and painted.

I'm also building a device for cleaning fuel injectors, which I will explain in detail once it's finished.
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
The lifters and pushrods are now soaking in gasoline, due to my kicking over the container of acetone. I will clean them off and then place them into a container of fresh motor oil overnight before install. My assembly lube is supposed to be here on Sunday, and I think that's the last thing I'm waiting on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #120 ·
I'm about to attempt to swap the valve springs and stem seals. Wish me luck! If all goes well, I will do the cam tomorrow.

If anybody has a use for the inner springs, they are yours.
 

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