[Caddylack]

The overhead style valve spring compressor from Harbor Freight is awful, at least for our cars. The whole idea of trying to grip an oily spring by the coils is ridiculous. Today I went to Napa and got one of the prybar style tools for $9, and it was great. Highly recommended to those on a tight budget.

All 16 springs and stem seals are in. Tomorrow I will start, and hopefully finish, the cam install.

 

[sherlock9c1]

See, that wasn't so hard, was it? What cam are you using?

 

[Caddylack]

See, that wasn't so hard, was it? What cam are you using?

It's a used hot cam that I bought from Brent.

 

[Caddylack]

Today is cam day. I've finally watched enough YouTube videos.

 

[Caddylack]

Okay... Snack break...

The old cam is about to come out. So far everything has gone smoothly, except for the fact that I broke something when I removed the pan. I'm guessing it's the oil temp sensor. There was some sort of black plastic thing laying in the pan.

I didn't see any metal or anything in the pan that would concern me. Just a bit of sludge like I would expect from an engine of this mileage.

 

[95wagon]

It was your oil level sensor

 

[Caddylack]

It was your oil level sensor

Do you know if this sensor is the same between 94 & 95 Fleetwood?

 

[95wagon]

if this is to be believed, yes

1993-2013 GM Engine Oil Level Sensor 12603782 | GMPartsDirect.com

1993-2013 GM part # 12603782 - Engine Oil Level Sensor

www.gmpartsdirect.com

1994 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham Sedan 5.7L Chevrolet V8 A/T Level. SENSOR. OIL - 12603782 | GM Parts Depot, Ottawa Ontario

Level. SENSOR. OIL. 1994 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham Sedan 5.7L Chevrolet V8 A/T. Genuine Cadillac Part - 12603782 (12579983). Ships from GM Parts Depot, Ottawa Ontario

www.tubmangmpartsdepot.ca

 

[sherlock9c1]

Half the time, they start leaking through the connector anyway. Keep moving.

 

[95wagon]

The whole oil level sensor "strategy" is a little goofy.
I'm not suggesting you replace it or delete it your choice,
if you wanted to go that route , stuff a drain plug in the hole
M20-1.50 oil plug like Dorman PN: 65221

 

[Caddylack]

I was wondering how important it was. I can grab the sensor off of my 94, but I also feel like I would rather rely on my dipstick than a sensor.

I love getting rid of connectors and anything else that isn't required for the car to operate, so I may just plug it.

 

[Caddylack]

Just realized I didn't post pics last night:

 

[Caddylack]

Switching gears back to more cleaning and painting.

This was the first intake manifold that I have ever examined while off the car, and I was pretty surprised at the amount of mung inside it. I had to do quite a bit of scraping before I could even think about scrubbing or solvents or anything. I'm still trying to decide on a good solvent for final cleaning of the intake, block, etc. before paint.

I'm trying to mentally block out the fact that there are 3 broken bolts that I need to figure out how to extract before I can go much further.

 

[96 Black]

The whole oil level sensor "strategy" is a little goofy.
I'm not suggesting you replace it or delete it your choice,
if you wanted to go that route , stuff a drain plug in the hole
M20-1.50 oil plug like Dorman PN: 65221

Hey wait just a goll darned minute. I thought I've heard horror stories and wailing and gnashing of teeth with guys trying to track down phantom 'no start' or 'sputter n die' when that sensor shoots craps.

And yes impressive mung (new word for me). Maybe off the mark, but I recall a pic of build-up like that in a carmag ages ago and said it's a sign the engine isn't getting warm enough for optimal combustion or somesuch.

Lazy man ques: What's the scuttlebutt on fave brand for seals? I'm redoing lifters on the son's 383 sbc.

 

[Caddylack]

And yes impressive mung (new word for me).

My shop teacher in high school used the word to describe any and all automotive residue. Later in life, I saw the term used to describe period-related vaginal discharge. Apparently, the word is much more prevalent than you would expect.

Lazy man ques: What's the scuttlebutt on fave brand for seals? I'm redoing lifters on the son's 383 sbc.

Which seals?

 

[Caddylack]

Thanks to Marky, I decided to disassemble the IAC, which is part of the throttle body. Boy, am I glad I didn't overlook this. Just look at all the mung.

I am told there exists a "spider" system of small holes that often get clogged. So, that's another thing I'm looking at right now.

 

[Caddylack]

I started wire brushing my belt tensioner pulley, and noticed the metal bracket had a chunk missing. The plastic seal around the edge was also brittle and falling apart. I took the one off my 94 and examined it. The metal bracket on this one is fine, but the plastic seal is damaged in the exact same spot as the other one. What gives?

As far as I know, both of these units "function" fine, in that I never had any issues with belt tension.

 

[96 Black]

My shop teacher in high school used the word to describe any and all automotive residue. Later in life, I saw the term used to describe period-related vaginal discharge. Apparently, the word is much more prevalent than you would expect.


Which seals?

The valve stem seals. It seems Fel-Pro and Comp Cams are the go-to names nowadays. And I had forgotten all about the O-rings in addition to the umbrellas. Old Zimers.

And do NOT look up that word on Urban Dictionary after a full meal. GDMF Rule 34 for absolutely everything I swear.

 

[Caddylack]

The valve stem seals. It seems Fel-Pro and Comp Cams are the go-to names nowadays. And I had forgotten all about the O-rings in addition to the umbrellas. Old Zimers.

And do NOT look up that word on Urban Dictionary after a full meal. GDMF Rule 34 for absolutely everything I swear.

The Fel-Pros were recommended to me by other members, and they are dirt cheap on Rock Auto. I'm super happy with them. It was my first time doing stem seals, and they damn near put themselves in. They give you a little plastic sleeve tool, but I didn't find it to be necessary.

What you want is a 3/8" drive, deep, 1/2" socket. If you have a 12-pointer, that would be best, but I did it with a regular 6-pointer. Make sure the seal and the stem are both lubed up real good. Slide the seal down the stem until it is snug against the head. Place the socket on top of it, so the wall of the socket fits perfectly into the groove on the top of the seal. Use a rubber mallet to tap on the socket and press the seal into position. I found that the mallet would make a certain sound when you finally got the seal perfectly flush.

 

[Z09B4U]

I am told there exists a "spider" system of small holes that often get clogged. So, that's another thing I'm looking at right now.

When you get there you will find it easy.

There are gasket kits like this one available. Some have the foam for the TB sensor.
GP Sorensen Fuel Injector Throttlebody Gasket 96-3008