1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
The one that was recommended to me by a friend was Easy-Off. I honestly don't know how safe it is on aluminum, but anecdotally I know he has used it on aluminum engines and hasn't noticed any issues.I have a memory that there are different formulations and one will eat aluminum.
I appreciate the info, but this might not apply in my case.This bears repeating , while it is important to remove the large lower pipe plugs when ever the intake is being cleaned, any coating being done it is ABSOLUTELY mandatory.
One guy here blamed his engine failure on poor assembly of his long block on his builder.
To this day, I think the owner bolted his shiny ceramic intake on full of glass beads and ceramic powder.
Personaly I pulled the plugs on one the guy I was building for after he got it back ported and powder coated by one of the recognized top head shops .
Full of media blast medium .
When they say MUST, they mean in order to validate warranty claims. Not in order for the stuff to "work".I just assumed as this is in Mastercoat(R) literature
Surface MUST be sandblasted and oils bled from the substrate before applying this coating.
I just wanted to correct myself for anybody who may happen to read this...Oh, damn you! :grin2:
From what I have gathered, the "locker" style differentials such as the Truetrac are far superior than the clutch style as far as durability. In theory, they should pretty much last forever. The issue is that the clutch style differentials are king when it comes to road racing. If you like to take corners at speed, you probably don't want an "on/off" type of differential.
I have one exhaust manifold stud snapped off in each head. I think only one of them matters, as the one on the passenger side is the very front most stud, the one that is not used by headers.
The one on the driver's side has turned into an issue. One of the tricks I saw on the glorious internet was to drill a hole in the center of the stud and then hammer a torx bit into the hole. This sounded like fun, but I botched the operation by using a random cheap torx bit from my box of "junk" bits. I'm not sure why that seemed like a good idea. I was afraid to damage a nicer bit, but the reality is that you shouldn't even attempt something like this unless you are using a super-hardened bit that you know for sure isn't going to do what mine did.
Mine obviously snapped right off as soon as I tried to turn it, leaving me with a really cool star shape in the middle of this stud. The issue now is that I can't seem to drill this piece of torx bit with any drill bit that I own. I'm not sure what kind of drill bit would be required.
Several of you guys have cautioned me against disturbing the factory head gaskets, but I'm starting to get anxious about my ability to extract this stud.
....................And I had forgotten all about the O-rings in addition to the umbrellas. Old Zimers.
It turns out a classic case of 'You can't remember what didn't happen." I didn't recall the little o-ring seals because the Canfield heads have no second groove. And you're right. The reason I don't remember much about installing the seals at all is because they quote, "damn near put themselves in. ........"The Fel-Pros were recommended to me by other members, and they are dirt cheap on Rock Auto. I'm super happy with them. It was my first time doing stem seals, and they damn near put themselves in. ........