i have a 96 9C1 w/OBD II and my distrubitor just went out last week. engine had 45psi of fuel, great compression, and great spark - yet wouldn't start. no codes were stored. i took off the H2O pump and found that the rotor had cracked, but was still spinning enough to give spark, just not right timing. i replaced it, along with the timing chain (a good idea if yours is origional, like mine was) and finally fired her up today. a new distributor will cost any where from $250-400.
It might throw a code, it might not. I had a problem with the original rotor in my opti getting pitted and just making a poor contact with the cap to make a spark. Rebuilt the opti using the original optical sensors (which have still never had a problem) and its run great since. The car never threw an opti code when it was missing and when it died as a result of the bad rotor, and I wouldn't expect it to.
Jon's car on the other hand has a high RPM miss, and one day it did finally throw a code, which was for a bad hi res sensor (I think it was hi-res, could have been low res, but you get the idea). So the PCM can tell when the optical sensors are going out and throw a code, but it can't tell when the rotor or cap is getting bad or filled with water. Unfortunately for us, the symptoms of a bad opti can also be symptoms of a bad wire or any ignition problem under the sun. As a result, sometimes diagnosing the ignition in our cars can be an all out crapshoot, there is a method you can attack it with, but it doesn't always work.
I have a 95 Caprice Classic with a 4.3 L engine. the car start great and runs great when cold started. However, 1/2 hour later and when it reached the operating temperature the engine start to race up and down, hesitate choke, buck and just died. From this point on, sometimes it will start and sometimes it won't. I have to let the engine cool for 1/2 hour before it will start with no problem but the cycle will repeat again.
I have replace the ignition module, ignition coil, temperature sensor, oxygen sensors and fuel filter but it did not solved the problem.
I am going to replace the opti spark since this is the last suspect. Can anyone direct me where can I get the opti spark for $200? Also where can I get my hand on the puller type for the crankshaft balancer? is this available from Auto Zone? Thanks in advance.
Thanks. I will call DAL.
I jump the terminals A & B on the Data Link Connector but the Check Gage does not flash at all. Then I went to Auto Zone to get a hand held scanner reading and they said the engine is a OBD1 and they jump it and no flash code is recorded. So, I am puzzled why or what type of scanner is required to get a DTC reading. but since I have replace almost everything, it won't hurt to change the Opti Spark at this point.
whould a bad opti throw the code for a hi read on temp sensor? cause my 96 9c1 with 160,000 miles has been taking a long time to start and smelling like gas after it catches and giving me that code
I just rebuilt a spare Opti for my ride about a month ago. I was very surprised at the high quality neoprene seals that are in place to seal the Opti from the outside environment, hovever, the Opti I rebuilt was suffering from oil spray within the Opti distributor. It seems that engine oil was leaking in from the cam drive area and polluting the optical sensor area. Coolant or outside water did not seem to be the culprit. For what it is worth...
I ordered the Opti spark from Dal for $198 with no tax and it is the the best price in the market. My local parts store sale it for $295 plus tax, and dealer wants $460 plus tax.
Thanks again to everybody for directing me to Dal's place.