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Discussion Starter #1
Hello , im a newbie to this forum. Ive always been a truck guy , still am , i also have a 65 suburban. I like to see if anyone has any pics of rear setups as far as air goes , i pretty much have the front handled. Your input is grately appreciated. Here is a pic of my caprice.

 
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Discussion Starter #2
You have to get the extended control arms because the rear wheel will start going into the door jam.

You have to notch a crossmember for the driveline, i had to notch out my driveline tunnel a little bit.

Have to notch the frame. Cut off the bumpstop mounts and the nipples where the coilsprings go. Make custom bag mounts. Thats about it
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Just a note, but those mods are only needed if you want to "lay frame". If you just want to put the rear on air it's a pretty straight forward deal; just replace the coil springs with a bag and mount in the stock location.
 
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Thanks for the input , you answered all my questions . Pretty much thought i had to do all that ,but wasnt sure. Ill post some pics up when i get it done.
thnx
 
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Originally posted by Wagon Boy:
You have to get the extended control arms because the rear wheel will start going into the door jam.

You have to notch a crossmember for the driveline, i had to notch out my driveline tunnel a little bit.

Have to notch the frame. Cut off the bumpstop mounts and the nipples where the coilsprings go. Make custom bag mounts. Thats about it
i'll second that
 
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Discussion Starter #6
haha, i looked at the photo of the blue caprice above me, and (at first) thought he had some sort of hood scoop or big ram air thing... then i realized it was a lawnmower...

ok, so i spent all day spraypainting furniture inside today, lost a few brain cells.

and I will "third that"
except for the part of needing extended control arms...
Unless you are putting over a 29" tire on it, it shouldnt pull into the door jam. plus, the use of extended control arms, for some, result in needing longer drive shaft.
try with out, and then if you have to, go that route, but i wont suggest to just do it from the get go...


i hate to say do a search, but a few of us have seriously documented the setup. Mine should still be up somewhere on here. try a search in suspension or wagon section for member 5010... i for get what the post is called but its about 4 pages long.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Originally posted by Crispix396:
haha, i looked at the photo of the blue caprice above me, and (at first) thought he had some sort of hood scoop or big ram air thing... then i realized it was a lawnmower...

ok, so i spent all day spraypainting furniture inside today, lost a few brain cells.

and I will "third that"
except for the part of needing extended control arms...
Unless you are putting over a 29" tire on it, it shouldnt pull into the door jam. plus, the use of extended control arms, for some, result in needing longer drive shaft.
try with out, and then if you have to, go that route, but i wont suggest to just do it from the get go...


i hate to say do a search, but a few of us have seriously documented the setup. Mine should still be up somewhere on here. try a search in suspension or wagon section for member 5010... i for get what the post is called but its about 4 pages long.
My tire is 27" and i extended my arms 7/8" and it still goes into the jam. Right when the axel goes into the notch the control arms pull the axel forward.
 
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i think you should extend them anyways just for the fact that even if the wheels dont pull INTO the wheel well they are still offcentered and i think it looks retarded. so i extended mine 1 1/4 inches and when its laid out they are perfectly centered on 20's. just my two cents
 
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Originally posted by lsvtce4thgen:
i think you should extend them anyways just for the fact that even if the wheels dont pull INTO the wheel well they are still offcentered and i think it looks retarded. so i extended mine 1 1/4 inches and when its laid out they are perfectly centered on 20's. just my two cents
How did you extend yours, did you do it yourself or did you buy them. Also, did you extend the uppers or lowers, or both?
 
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How did you extend yours, did you do it yourself or did you buy them. Also, did you extend the uppers or lowers, or both?
I like to know that too.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
im not saying NOT to extend them.. i am just saying that it is not always necessary, and if price is an issue, then try without.. If money has no value, then extend away...
 
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Discussion Starter #12
i just built my own tubular ones, similar to building a 4-link exept i used the stock mounting locations. az roadmonster i see that your local if you want to see mine your more than welcome to swing by sometime and check them out
 
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Discussion Starter #13
sorry i didnt fully answer the question. you have to extend them both equally if you want to keep the same pinion angle between the driveshaft and rearend, because of the fact that the oem bars are set up on an unequal 4-link.(meaning that all the bars are not equal) if you make the uppers longer then it will just tip the front of the pumpkin up and if you only extend the lowers it will tip the front of the pumkin down. there for inorder to actually move the complete rearend back you have to extend them equally.
 
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Discussion Starter #14


cant buy that kit :D

thats my rear end set-up and now the floor is in with enough room for 2 seats.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
lsvtce4thgen, what did you do as far as the driveshaft goes? did you get a new, longer one? I think I will take you up on your offer to check it out. email or pm me to let me know your availability.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
im having a drivshaft built with a slip yolk in it. azroadmonster what part of the valley are you in?
 
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Discussion Starter #17
I live in glendale, but I work and attend school in mesa (mcc)
 
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Discussion Starter #18
cool well i live around the loop 101 and 7th street if you want to sometime this weekend you can swing by
 
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