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Discussion Starter #1
What's the torque for the upper's and lower 5/8 balljoint?
 
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Discussion Starter #2
FSM shows 125 ft/lbs and it is WRONG.

There was a thread a month or so ago that recommended using the torque value that is stated on the ball joint instructions. There was a post in there that quoted some values.

I would post what I remember, but that would only show you how bad my memory is.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
I have new GM arms and they don't mention it on them.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
And for the lowers (since they weren't addressed on that thread) I want to say they're start at 75 ft*lbs and max out at 90 to get the pin in...but I don't have my manual or the paper that came with my new balljoints here, so don't hold me to that number.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Originally posted by Wayne Bengston:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr /> And for the lowers (since they weren't addressed on that thread)
They weren't? Hmmm...

The correct torque is 61 upper, 83 lower.
</font>[/QUOTE]I stand corrected...I completely missed the second half of your sentence Wayne...sorry about that.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
96 FSM, says 107 then turn tight till hole lines up. worked fine for me
 
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Discussion Starter #9
OK, here's what I have regarding ball joint torque values--this is NOT from FSM, but from the Dana/Spicer info that comes with the ACDelco parts I use.

Upper:

1. Torque to 65 ft/lb

2. Locate cotter pin hole in stud then continue to tighten until slot in nut lines up with hole

3. DO NOT BACK OFF NUT WHEN LOCATING COTTER PIN HOLE


Lower:

1. Torque value varies by size, though minimally

9/16" 75-85 ft/lb

5/8" 80-85 ft/lb

2. Follow same procedure as for upper ball joint
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Similar to Bill, the info I got was from (I believe) an old Moog box. Works well for me :
</font>
  • Upper : 55 ft-lbs, then tighten to next cotter pin hole</font>
  • Lower : 75 ft-lbs, then tighten to next cotter pin hole</font>
  • ALL the rest (tierods, idler, centerlink) : 35 ft-lbs, then tighten to next cotter pin hole</font>
  • Idler arm to frame bolts : 61 ft-lbs</font>
In all practicality, the difference between 75, 83 and 85 ft-lbs is gonna be a small fraction of a turn. In fact, it's possible that after going to the next cotter pin hole, they'd all be the same anyways
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Originally posted by AutocroSSer:
In fact, it's possible that after going to the next cotter pin hole, they'd all be the same anyways
if not higher

For what it's worth, when I put my front end together, I went with the torque specs that came with each individual part. I figured I shouldn't just follow the FSM to the T because I wasn't using factory parts (if you use ARP head bolts you torque as ARP says to, not as the FSM says to)...for any parts that didn't come with specs, then I went to the FSM...or in the case of my solid tie rod sleeves, I just had the allignment guy lock those nuts down good after he set the toe.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Guys I plan on using GM for the rest of the front end (centerlink,tierods,idler and pitman)after reading a post that members recommend using GM parts.Ed
 
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