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Discussion Starter #1
Over the winter it appears that rodents must have gotten into the engine compartment and got leaves or other crap into the HVAC box. My son was driving the car and all of sudden the passenger compartment filled with smoke, which I'm guessing was from crap that was in/around the heater core. While that eventually subsided, I have this not so nice smell now coming from the vents, and the blower motor only works on HIGH. I need to check my fuse panel and see if any are blown, I am hoping I don't need a new blower motor. I read the blower motor R/R thread, and saw the removal steps, and was wondering if there were any old threads where someone had to clear vents, intakes, etc of debris?

Am I going to need a plumber's snake or coat hangar to get into hard to reach places to loosen up stuff to suck up with a shop vac?
 

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the blower motor only works on HIGH.

You will have to check out your blower resistors. When they fail you lose all but HIGH.


They may have burned off the mount or the thermal fuse may have burnt out. The best choice is a NEW replacement.


Be sure you have the correct fuse to the blower and that it still works properly or the resistors may burn out again.


The images are from one that rusted out.
 

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You need to drop the blower motor. It will be filled with crap. Don't run it at all until you do this. Once the motor is out, you shove a shop vac hose up there and get all the goodies. BTDT...
 

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It's pretty easy. Remove the door sill, kick panel and the cover under the blower. There will be 3 screw holding the blower motor in place. You'll need a 1/4" drive handle and a 7mm socket. A ratchet and extension will work also. As mentioned earlier, vacuum out the hair, teeth and eyeballs of the critter that committed suicide. You'll see a plug that goes to the blower resistor. Remove the resistor and replace it with one from a local auto parts store. OReilly's part number is Part #: 20254 and it's around $25.00. The hardest part is that one of the screws that hold the blower in is back by the firewall. You can't really see it so "May the Force be with you. Trust the Force".
 

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Ace, you had mentioned about the odor coming from the vents. I used to get a small bottle of deodorizer from the HVAC shop in town. It's very small bottle and it has green lettering. I can't remember the name but they used it in systems when a skunk got in the AC. I used it in my patrol car for other odors. It worked real well. I'll try to see if I can find something on it. Till then you can look too. It was a little pricey for the amount but it was good stuff.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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Ace, you had mentioned about the odor coming from the vents. I used to get a small bottle of deodorizer from the HVAC shop in town. It's very small bottle and it has green lettering. I can't remember the name but they used it in systems when a skunk got in the AC. I used it in my patrol car for other odors. It worked real well. I'll try to see if I can find something on it. Till then you can look too. It was a little pricey for the amount but it was good stuff.

Mark: Snowman-33
For smell you could mayhaps use spray Resolve for a ready and cheap solution. Not a whole lot to add except I always be real careful positioning the foam collar that seals the motor-cooling tube. It's usually 1/2 rotted anyway, but will allow quite a bit of airleak and diminished air velocity out the vents if not sealed as best as possible. At one point during my last cleaning (averages out to about bi-annual ) I ALMOST cut a new one from some of those electrical receptacle insulator pads. I said almost. But I'll definitely do that next time.
 

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The 91-93 car screws have 7mm heads, and the 94-96 cars have 5.5mm heads.

The new blowers have short squirrel cages, and flow less air. The OEM cages are black, and taller. You can not swap the squirrel cages between the two motors, because the newer ones are taller, and the OEM fan will not fit over them. To the best of my knowledge, the motor is not rebuildable.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, old threads mentioned someone taking the blower motor out and bringing to a shop that specializes in rebuilding stuff and it after it was torn down the conclusion was 'these things aren't designed to be re-buildable'.

I'll post some pix of my efforts if the weekend weather cooperates.
 

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Another thing to add that I started doing this winter was I put 4 electronic rodent repellants in the outlets and I would also line sticky mouse traps along the walls of my garage...I trapped many mice this way and the best part is that I can turn on my blower motor on high and not have to hear a bunch of crap blowing around or it sounding like a jet engine
 

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Earlier in the year I heard a hum from the black car's blower that's typical for a leaf. The car has been sitting in the open for the past month and now the sound progressed to an impressive buzz and only running 1/2 revs. Well, it ain't gonna clean itself out so since I've done this job 6+ times, I figured I'd make a timed trial of cleaning it.

BIG mistake.

The 91-93 car screws have 7mm heads, and the 94-96 cars have 5.5mm heads.
[snip].
Yep, I remembered the 5.5. and 7, but just got them crossed. It wasn't a 7mm. Had to go back in the garage to get the 5.5mm. I didn't have that in my set so figured WTH must be 5. &h!T it's not a 5. Back in the garage to get the 6. And I bring out the whole damm set this time. Not a 6. I check another set (really cheapass set from a boat I used to have) and great there's a 5.5. My short extension is too short for the "rear" (actually the forwardmost) screw, so back in the garage for the longer one.

Lucky me, no dead babies, just a nut. I almost wish it were a nest. Those make for a lots grosser and neater pic:





Back in the garage to get 2 tiny screwdrivers to position the foam gasket for the blower cooling tube. Total was 17 minutes, and add 10 minutes for a shower. Crappy time but it ain't getting a cooler out, so no sense putting off the job. I learned something new = no need to remove door sill mold. Just force carpet forward and slide forward side of kickpanel inboard and remove.


Cliffs: Never wise trying to prove how smart you are working on these cars. They'll take you straight to 'stupid' every time.
 

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Whenever I find a nut or bolt that will not fit metric or standard I try the other.
5.556 mm = 7/32
I find many of the screw/bolts that are used to drive into plastic are standard. I expect the car maker found it cheaper to source standard than metric screws.
 

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Just to bring this full circle, if you want to prevent junk from getting in there do something like this...

Caprice Cabin Filter

....or even just a screen of some kind over the opening will help.
 

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Whenever I find a nut or bolt that will not fit metric or standard I try the other.
5.556 mm = 7/32
I find many of the screw/bolts that are used to drive into plastic are standard. I expect the car maker found it cheaper to source standard than metric screws.
I tried that one BEFORE it dawned on me to check my 'other' set. But that hidden location is so tough to begin with I couldn't get it to take.

And 4DoorSS, how in the hayol will I get the opportunity to put 2 drops of 3-in-1 on the motor every 2 years if I don't have to remove it anymore for cleaning out the crap? ;)
 

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I tried that one(7/32) BEFORE it dawned on me to check my 'other' set. But that hidden location is so tough to begin with I couldn't get it to take.
With fasteners like that I take a spare socket and grind the end to remove the radius that most socket makers have. When the edge is square it is a little harder to get it on the head of the fastener but with more socket wall to head contact it works better. This also works on short bolt heads that have a integrated washers.
 

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Talk About OldTimers Disease

I had picked the Impala SS last month to make an outing with the wife, but the blower sounded like a blender of bolts. Being hot out it forced jumping in the FWB. Move ahead to just last week and I notice the r. view mirror is dangling inside. Got that fixed and poked under the hood to check stuff and WTF why am I losing the hood liner? ?????? I never read on here that it just plain falls off with age, so quite the mystery.



I got in and started it for no reason and got instantly reminded of the fubared blower - all the way back from just 6 weeks ago. So, I'm determined to beat my last time for R&R. Good news; blower came out in 4 minutes. Bad news; I discovered where all the liner went:



I had to check back to my posts above to make sure it was my Impala SS (and not my FWB) that I had (just recently) cleaned and lubed. Sure enough it has already gotten its 2 drops of oil for the year.

I'll never look at charming cute little chipmunks the same way again. There's no living together in peace anymore. The wife's rat terrier will get sict on every last one I see from now on!
 

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Yeah, old threads mentioned someone taking the blower motor out and bringing to a shop that specializes in rebuilding stuff and it after it was torn down the conclusion was 'these things aren't designed to be re-buildable'.

I'll post some pix of my efforts if the weekend weather cooperates.
I actually recently bought one from a local yard for a fella here that had started a post about needing a motor.

He bailed out, and never contacted me further, so I've got a motor if you're interested.

About the resistor pack.....I never realized how HOT those suckers get 'till I fired up the motor recently with the resistor pack disconnected. It's easy to believe that some garbage got into the HVAC system and got tangled up in the resistor pack and got cooked.

LMK if you're interested in the GM motor.
 
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