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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I followed the first 1/2 of the flow chart to diagnose cruise CTRL problems, before my 700 mile trip this past weekend, with all positive results at the cruise control module (12+ Volt signal at the appropriate receptacles).

If the headlight switch is off, I have all function of the cruise control stalk/controller. And if I have the marker or headlights engaged, the CC will do nothing.

If I have the CC set, and then apply either the marker lights or headlights, the cruise disengages.

All fuses have been checked with a DVOM, so I'm sorta stumped at the point as what could be the correlation between the headlight switch and the CC stalk or control module.

Any thoughts??

Thanks!
 

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offhand without checking diagrams it sounds like bad grounds, probably for the rear taillights.
faulty ground can feedback current thru the brake light circuit and cruise goes off.
from what I remember theres grounds by both trunk hinges but dont remember which is for what.
 

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if you have led tails - that will happen..

you either need to add a resistor or a lamp in the line like I did..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
if you have led tails - that will happen..

you either need to add a resistor or a lamp in the line like I did..

I did just install LEDs 2 weeks ago. Before I left the house this morning when I noticed this, I swapped one side to the traditional filament bulbs, but it made no change. Maybe both sides needed to have the traditional bulbs installed for the brake lights to go out?

Can you be more specific in what you did to resolve the issue? Where did you install a resistor; to each brake light's hot signal wire? How many ohms of resistance were they?

Please clarify.

This thread also relates to what I found this morning:

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I walked around the car this morning, as she warmed up with the marker lights on. I noticed all (4) brake lamps were lit, and not the 5th brake light in the package tray area.

I removed both plugs from the brake light switch receptacle, with no success.

I swapped out the 1157s for the heck of it, and still have the same problem.

I had to borrow a car to get into work today, and have yet to dig into the service manuals to diagnose, but can't understand how the marker light signal is bleeding over to ALL four brake lamps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
As a side note, I didn't experience this problem with my 9C1 and LEDs installed. Granted I didn't have cruise control, but I didn't have the brake light issue I'm now having with the civilian.

This is making me think more along the lines of a GND issue somewhere in the wiring in the trunk area.
 

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I did just install LEDs 2 weeks ago. Before I left the house this morning when I noticed this, I swapped one side to the traditional filament bulbs, but it made no change. Maybe both sides needed to have the traditional bulbs installed for the brake lights to go out?

Can you be more specific in what you did to resolve the issue? Where did you install a resistor; to each brake light's hot signal wire? How many ohms of resistance were they?
1. check ground on left trunk hinge bracket - causes more trouble than you know..

2. Cruise and chmsl are on same circuit as tails thru the turn signal switch...

I run a LOT of leds in my tails [and my chmsl]- yet not enough resistance to hold the cruise on..



So I hard wired in one 3496 behind the tails to provide enough resistance in the run and stop circuit...

Even so - after a while my cruise will slow down....until I turn it off and on again..

I don't know enough about resistors to help you and am scared they can overheat and start a fire...

Used to be a lot on here before the crash with Jay and I both having led wars - but I think its gone now...
 

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heres an old post from back in the day I saved - but like I say - some reistors CAN catch fire...so you are on your own if you use them

LED load resistors

For those of you who have upgraded to LED bulbs and are having problems with the flasher not working cause there is no load anymore or cruise control not working, here's a fix. www.superbrightleds.com sells a load resistor for it. Here's the info per their web site:
LOAD RESISTOR KITS

6 Ohm, 50 Watt resistors can be connected across the turn signal bulbs to simulate the load of a regular filament bulb (2 Amp load). This will solve LED related turn signal problems such as hyper flashing, no flashing or burnt out bulb indications.
One resistor is required for each turn signal bulb. Includes gel filled moisture resistant splice taps.

Cost is 4.95 but you can also get the same thing from www.mouser.com for 3.08 if you don't mind soldering your own wire to it. Page number 344, part number is 71-RH50-Value (value would be 6)or 71-RH50-6
Hope this helps.

Alex
 
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