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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Which ones? ones where the cat pipes meet the catback? Or the cat pipes meet the manifolds? or the manifolds meet the head?
cats meet the manifold, right next to the block, i tried getting under the car with a breaker bar and i broke my entention :)
 

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cats meet the manifold, right next to the block, i tried getting under the car with a breaker bar and i broke my entention :)
Liberal amounts of liquid wrench. Let soak for at least a day and reapply. Turn on the car and get them hot if necessary. Use a good quality extension. You'll be putting a lot of torque on it when breaking them. Last resort would be a torch. Replace w/ stainless bolts/washers/nuts and anti-sieze. You won't have the problem ever again (unless you DON'T use anti-sieze!).
 

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In addition to the tips that SEO9C1 listed, an impact wrench is a huge help in breaking loose corroded exhaust fasteners.
 

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In addition to the tips that SEO9C1 listed, an impact wrench is a huge help in breaking loose corroded exhaust fasteners.
saving up for air tools atm...

wish i had them already
 

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saving up for air tools atm...

wish i had them already
Have you considered a cordless to hold you over till you have your dollars saved up?

This one is cheap, but only makes 140 Ft. lbs.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94855

This one is more expensive, but makes 220 Ft. lbs.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65817

For reference, stock B-body lug nuts are supposed to be torqued to 100 ft. lbs. I've been using the same Harbor Frieght cordless impact since 2004 and use it often. I race (swap tires) 8 or more times each year, plus stuff around the garage. I hardly ever drag out the pneumatic one unless this one can't break it loose (almost never). It is the best money I've ever spent on an automotive tool.

Harbor Frieght also sells cheap impact sockets. They may be cheap, but I've never broken one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Have you considered a cordless to hold you over till you have your dollars saved up?

This one is cheap, but only makes 140 Ft. lbs.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94855

This one is more expensive, but makes 220 Ft. lbs.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65817

For reference, stock B-body lug nuts are supposed to be torqued to 100 ft. lbs. I've been using the same Harbor Frieght cordless impact since 2004 and use it often. I race (swap tires) 8 or more times each year, plus stuff around the garage. I hardly ever drag out the pneumatic one unless this one can't break it loose (almost never). It is the best money I've ever spent on an automotive tool.

Harbor Frieght also sells cheap impact sockets. They may be cheap, but I've never broken one.
wow never knew... good stuff
 

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Liberal amounts of liquid wrench. Let soak for at least a day and reapply. Turn on the car and get them hot if necessary. Use a good quality extension. You'll be putting a lot of torque on it when breaking them. Last resort would be a torch. Replace w/ stainless bolts/washers/nuts and anti-sieze. You won't have the problem ever again (unless you DON'T use anti-sieze!).
we soaked bolts in the liquid wrench already, but motor is in pieces so starting is not an option

Have you considered a cordless to hold you over till you have your dollars saved up?

This one is cheap, but only makes 140 Ft. lbs.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94855

This one is more expensive, but makes 220 Ft. lbs.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65817

For reference, stock B-body lug nuts are supposed to be torqued to 100 ft. lbs. I've been using the same Harbor Frieght cordless impact since 2004 and use it often. I race (swap tires) 8 or more times each year, plus stuff around the garage. I hardly ever drag out the pneumatic one unless this one can't break it loose (almost never). It is the best money I've ever spent on an automotive tool.

Harbor Frieght also sells cheap impact sockets. They may be cheap, but I've never broken one.
hmm that is good, wolf Im gonna have to get a floor jack to lift that car higher, that little one a aint cuttin it
 

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If they're stock manifolds, the flange studs are just gonna snap.

I hope you need to just take them off because your putting headers on...
 

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If they're stock manifolds, the flange studs are just gonna snap.
Not always true. I have taken them off many times on my DCM Roadmaster. An impact does wonders, because it gives the studs a repeated shock, which helps break them loose. If you just stick a rachet on there, put a pipe on it, and crank down.. then ya, you are more likely to snap them.

I got all 6 studs out of the manifolds on my Gold Caprice, last year, as well. But both of these cars lived most of there lives in Florida. My Michigan based cars... I snapped 3 of 6 on the Red RMS, and have not even bothered spliting them on my other Michigan cars. I normally take the manifolds & cats as an assemble out the bottom. On the red Buick, I had soaked them with PB blaster for a week, and drove the car around for about an hour before I tried taking them off. Still snapped 3 of 6 with the impact starting on a light setting.
 

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Ahhhh yea. OP is a cali guy, so he might have luck with PB and an impact.

Im in NY, so like you said its useless for me too lol.
 

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If they're stock manifolds, the flange studs are just gonna snap.

I hope you need to just take them off because your putting headers on...
naw pulling the heads, but headers may go on aswell

Ahhhh yea. OP is a cali guy, so he might have luck with PB and an impact.

Im in NY, so like you said its useless for me too lol.
sprayed PB on the bolts but not able to work on it til the weekend, so hopefully it will either be ready to come off or we have the right tools for the job, thanks guys
 

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My car has spent all its life in the Midwest rust belt... But between me, a 1.5 foot quality extension, and like a 4-5 foot breaker bar. My brother was moving the breaker bar while I was keeping everything straight against the nuts. We slathered liquid wrench and being persistent got all the bolts off the manifold without snapping any. I had stainless steel hardware to replace all the nuts and bolts that were being undone so I would recommend doing that.

Having the car on ramps and chocked helped it be that much easier to get in the right angles. You can also screw in brand new o2 sensors once the cats are bolted up. I didn't want to risk hitting them.
 
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