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Discussion Starter #1
Finally got around to installing this box that I bought last year. Have seen it mentioned in other threads but nothing on actually installing it.



It is a direct drop in that fits without modification. I have seen on other forums that some cars require different bolts or some grinding to remove the 4th "ear".






Oddly enough the factory gear box that was on my wagon has the Z on top it.



Still have to change the pump, lines, etc before I can try it out.
 

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Good deal looking forward to your reviews

The Z for identification of internals is BS
Think about it, it is cast in.
For it to be significant to nuances like ratio and effort, the usage would have been designated at the foundry
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good deal looking forward to your reviews

The Z for identification of internals is BS
Think about it, it is cast in.
For it to be significant to nuances like ratio and effort, the usage would have been designated at the foundry
I always felt that way about the Z as well. One being on this standard wagon box proves it to me.

Sadly the new pump I bought is not for this car even though the box says LT1. It is tiny compared to my pump and the fitting locations are wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Finished it up today. New pump, all new lines and cleaned out the fluid reservoir. Installed the 9C1 line with the "cooler" on it. System bled with ease and all is quiet.

Wagon drives like a different car now. Box is nice and tight and responds perfectly. Lane changes are now a smooth experience.

Everything else being stock wagon, it is exactly 3 turns lock to lock.

Should say that not having an ABS system in the way helped make this job as easy as it was.
 

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Yes the "Z" means fast ratio thing is bogus. only way to tell externally is the ink stamped code on the end plate. aside from removing and physically checking. even then you cant physically check the "torsion bar" for steering feel without some high dollar equipment. i've been over this a few times already.....

anyway, to op: how is steering feel? heavier than stock wagon box? do your knuckles contact the stops on your lower control arms before the pump goes into bypass?
 

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inch pound torque wrench , degree wheel, vice grips, coat hanger pointer.

If you are comparing on the bench
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes the "Z" means fast ratio thing is bogus. only way to tell externally is the ink stamped code on the end plate. aside from removing and physically checking. even then you cant physically check the "torsion bar" for steering feel without some high dollar equipment. i've been over this a few times already.....

anyway, to op: how is steering feel? heavier than stock wagon box? do your knuckles contact the stops on your lower control arms before the pump goes into bypass?
Steering feel is slightly firmer than it was. My tires hit the frame before I hit the stops so I haven't paid attention. Wagon is my daily and I needed to take care of the whining pump and worn box that had me looking like I was driving the General Lee on a sound stage to keep it straight. Box is pretty much an updated, stock replacement. I didn't want to mess with questionable parts store rebuilds or junk yard parts and this unit fit the bill. Wasn't cheap but I'm very happy with it so far.

Waiting on my next packages so I can get rid of these damn 18" wheels.
 

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i did some research it's a 670 box. very cool. often overlooked is the flow valve in the pump. Valve mod page

this page has been around for almost 20 years, hard to believe.
 

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I don't want to take the this thread too far from the Borgeson roots, but thought I'd piggyback to ask some recommendations other than starting a new thread.

My OE 9c1 box and pump have about 203k miles on them now, and the steering occasionally "locks up" and takes a few minutes to get free again on cold starts if the car has been sitting a bit, as well as having the pump making quite a bit of whining noise, despite changing the Redline synthetic PSF a few times a year, and most recently about 3 months ago. The steering is also pretty sloppy on-center and feels a bit notchy once the wheel is off-center. Car is a bit of handful on the highway between the worn out hydraulic steering components, and I have to wiggle the wheel like a madman on the road course to get much feel/feedback/direction change out of it, --- SO --- it's time to replace some parts!

That being said, I was leaning toward not only replacing the pump with this new unit:

Mostly so I can "rebuild" the one that's in the car now for a spare, but $116 for a new unit and not having to send in the old pump as a core seems like a good idea.
Thoughts?

And on the "while I was in there" plan, I suppose it'd make good sense to replace the steering box as well. Ideally the Borgeson is attractive as a new unit, but at nearly $450, the price is a little bit of a choking point.


That being said, am I really rolling the dice on a reman'd unit from BBB at $140+ $40 core, so $180 initial price?
According to their literature, they do plenty of diligence weeding out any question parts in the process of the rebuild.....





Any other items I should strongly consider replacing while I'm in there? I replaced both the pressure and return lines about 10 years ago, and while they're not currently leaking, I remember them being kind of a pain to replace with everything in place on the car. I haven't replaced the reservoir hose and it may be starting to seep, but it's hard to tell with the occasional PSF overflow out of the top of the res when I'm on the track.

Other thoughts or recommendations?

Thanks!
 

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My OE 9c1 box and pump have about 203k miles on them now, and the steering occasionally "locks up" and takes a few minutes to get free again on cold starts if the car has been sitting a bit, as well as having the pump making quite a bit of whining noise, despite changing the Redline synthetic PSF a few times a year, and most recently about 3 months ago.
That cold start issue could be the pump itself. The power steering pump on my car had the same issue ever since it was brand new. Of course, the dealer could never replicate the problem while it was under warranty so it never got fixed. Fast forward several years and I had my pump rebuilt by Lee Power Steering, and the problem was taken care of - until it came back last year. I sent the pump back to Lee and they said that they found some debris in an internal poppet valve that was causing it to stick. They suggested changing all of the fluid lines to make sure that degrading rubber lines weren't contributing to the problem. After 25 years the lines going in and out of the gear box definitely needed to be replaced.
 

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I recently had a pump ,and steering box gone through by LEE. Replaced all hoses. Most all except two short lengths going to/from reservoir hose barbs with teflon/stainless AN-08 hose/fittings...
 

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Thanks guys.

I had figured the "lock up" issue was the pump, and attributed the notchy feeling to the same thing, but figured I'd get some additional opinions.

Tom, what did Lee charge for the rebuilds? IIRC, the labor per unit started in the $300 range, plus any additional parts that needed replacement IF they could be sourced?
 

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One option that I took advantage of is replacing bushings with bearings ,
and that includes a billet alum. cap. Really wasn't that much more.
 

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Steering box
197063
 

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Installed ,but as of yet undriven.. Original to car with about 150k miles. Had gotten a little "loose" in Pittsburgh.... Had been using a low mile box from a buddy's wrecked B4U that loosened up in Bowling Green. Been meaning to give adjusting one of these boxes a try ,but never got around to it. Had been using a filter for P/S fluid for a couple years now.
197070
 
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Let me know how it feels once you get it out on the road. Everybody talks like it's a night and day, new car difference. I just can't make up my mind whether I'd want to roll the dice on what sounds like a nicely rebuilt BBB box for $180, NEW Borgeson box for $450 or a Lee rebuild that'll likely be $500 after shipping....... My steering feels gross and sloppy, and has for a few years, especially on the highway. On track, the car spends so little time on, or near center, I don't know if it'd be that big, or any, improvement in lap times.
 

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I can tell you the steering wheel turns only a little (1/6-1/8 turn) past one full turn past "neutral" in either direction before hitting stops. Tires/wheels not on car.
 
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