Hello, I have my rear end out for rebuild and want to change my upper and lower control arm bushings while I have room to do so as well as maybe put some chassis paint on some areas where the vehicle needs it (surface rust) where the shocks and springs sit at top. I’ve been reading about upper adjustable and lower extended control arms. I’m still deciding if I want to spend the money. I understand from some posts that upper bushings will wear from some type of binding because the geometry changes from stock forward positioning of the rear diff. Posts also believe the connections (Clevis positioning etc. can help). Idk, I want NO reason to have to change worn bushing parts up in there for a long time. Also, I want to broken parts up in there later earlier than stock parts will last. I also read that stock upper control arms may be better than aftermarket because they need to flex a bit. I know performance control arms remedy wheel hopping and lateral movement (tire rub around corners). I understand for racing purposes people want rigid suspension there but my car is not a race car. It has a stock engine with 3:73 gears in it and a cold air intake. That’s all. I’d like to have my wheels centered in the wheel well. That would be nice. I just want to weigh my options here. Should I put extended control arms upper and lower while I’m here with the diff out?
Questions:
1. Is it a must I need to have upper adjustable control arms to use extended lowers for pinion angle? I’m guessing yes. My car is lowered 2 inches (With springs) in the rear as it sits with 24 inch rims.
2. Do they sell a weldable boxing kit like I’ve seen on Summit racing website for older cars “for our 94-96 Impala and Caprices?“ has anyone boxed theirs? I have yet to find a post on the forum.
3. If I do put adjustable upper and extended lower control arms to center my wheel, whats the chances I will have “binding issues” or “chewed up rubber parts” on my uppers? That’s my fear. I dont drag race but do get some corners sometimes for fun. I don’t want to burn rubber here and there, and find I need to change these upper bushings “poly or whatever” in a couple years. I’d kind of rather box my stocks, put new bushings in Upper and lower and see many miles to come with a wheel that sits forward a little bit. As for wheel hop, I’ve experienced that too. My tire grabbed my wheel once on the lower front corner and bent it. Dont get me wrong but this Binding and rubber chewing up thing is the reason I am staying away from that decision (binding issues). Am I not seeing something clearly or am I over reacting? I want a solution that is as good or better than factory for my daily driver type semi stock street car. I feel like wheel hop and lateral movement fixes is the trade off for replacing bushing in such a hard place to get to. What’s the General fix to this Bushing bind? Has it been fixed yet? Do people run rubber vs poly? Do the control arms accept stock bushings? Is Metco a good option?
4. Do these after market upper and lower kits put more stress on the mounting tabs that are welded to the vehicle Since they are more rigid? Is it possible I could break mine in the future?
5. which bushings wear and tear on the uppers? On the diff? On the body side?
6. How long will a set of Metco upper adjustable and lower extended billet last me? They say no other mods are required. I’ve read the drive shaft does not need to be extended and read it does. Can I get some feedback on this one? Will my stock driveshaft suit me with light driving until I get the shaft? I’d probably get it don’t as soon as air get my car back on the road but will driving it to a shop break something on the tranny spline side? Does this all depend on what kit I use?
Im interested in this kit. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>1994-1996 Chevrolet Impala Parts | A657503 | 1994-96 Chevrolet Full size Models - Billet Rear Control Arm Set (0.75 Extended Length) | Classic Industries
Thanks.
Questions:
1. Is it a must I need to have upper adjustable control arms to use extended lowers for pinion angle? I’m guessing yes. My car is lowered 2 inches (With springs) in the rear as it sits with 24 inch rims.
2. Do they sell a weldable boxing kit like I’ve seen on Summit racing website for older cars “for our 94-96 Impala and Caprices?“ has anyone boxed theirs? I have yet to find a post on the forum.
3. If I do put adjustable upper and extended lower control arms to center my wheel, whats the chances I will have “binding issues” or “chewed up rubber parts” on my uppers? That’s my fear. I dont drag race but do get some corners sometimes for fun. I don’t want to burn rubber here and there, and find I need to change these upper bushings “poly or whatever” in a couple years. I’d kind of rather box my stocks, put new bushings in Upper and lower and see many miles to come with a wheel that sits forward a little bit. As for wheel hop, I’ve experienced that too. My tire grabbed my wheel once on the lower front corner and bent it. Dont get me wrong but this Binding and rubber chewing up thing is the reason I am staying away from that decision (binding issues). Am I not seeing something clearly or am I over reacting? I want a solution that is as good or better than factory for my daily driver type semi stock street car. I feel like wheel hop and lateral movement fixes is the trade off for replacing bushing in such a hard place to get to. What’s the General fix to this Bushing bind? Has it been fixed yet? Do people run rubber vs poly? Do the control arms accept stock bushings? Is Metco a good option?
4. Do these after market upper and lower kits put more stress on the mounting tabs that are welded to the vehicle Since they are more rigid? Is it possible I could break mine in the future?
5. which bushings wear and tear on the uppers? On the diff? On the body side?
6. How long will a set of Metco upper adjustable and lower extended billet last me? They say no other mods are required. I’ve read the drive shaft does not need to be extended and read it does. Can I get some feedback on this one? Will my stock driveshaft suit me with light driving until I get the shaft? I’d probably get it don’t as soon as air get my car back on the road but will driving it to a shop break something on the tranny spline side? Does this all depend on what kit I use?
Im interested in this kit. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>1994-1996 Chevrolet Impala Parts | A657503 | 1994-96 Chevrolet Full size Models - Billet Rear Control Arm Set (0.75 Extended Length) | Classic Industries
Thanks.