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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
Yesterday I have finished brake repair: changed calipers, wheel cylinders, shoes and pads, and rear brakes hardware.
After that I filled MC reservoir with new brake fluid (didn't put the cap back on it).
As soon as I applied brake pedal fluid was all over the windshield and booster :(

Is it normal behavior or MC malfunction?
 

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If it splashed out while you were bleeding the brakes? Then,yes that's pretty typical. I generally set the cover on top of the master cylinder while bleeding brakes,and try pressing the pedal more slowly helps also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, it splashed out while I was bleeding the brakes. So I put the cover on master cylinder, bleed rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver wheels.
And still there is a large splash every time I press brake pedal (even if slow and gentle).
 

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Sounds like you're doing them right. I'm going to say the splashing is common (in my experience) I use/recommend "one-man" bleeder screws. They are around $10/pr. They make it much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for your answers.
I will remeber "one-man" bleeder screws.
Usually I ask someone to press brake pedal and add fluid while I'm bleeding calipers and cylinders.
 

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some shooting up of brake fluid is normal, until the piston seals are past the fill ports.
but if you have issues of the pedal not holding or spongy pedal then the mc piston seals are shot.
 

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I still have my original master cylinder,and calipers. I wouldn't replace it unless it's gone bad.
 

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Is your location accurate? If so, how long has the vehicle been there and what do they primarily use to clear the roads of snow? Salt?

Question geared toward vehicle age and how cars that experience similar climate conditions "mature". I'm initially of the opinion your vehicle condition may be comparable to a mid-western or north-eastern car in the US. These vehicles tend to be subject to lots of road salt and this salt corrodes and eats frame, body and conduit lines alike.

If the above sounds true, thoroughly check the hard, steel brake lines for corrosion.

Did you replace the soft, rubber lines connecting hard lines to calipers/wheel cylinders?

Place the cap back atop the reservoir when bleeding. The speed bleeders you'll want are (I believe. Double check this for the rear wheel cylinders...) m10x1.0 for the rear and m10x1.5 for the front. Clean the spilled brake fluid thoroughly. It's an excellent paint remover.

Additionally, run a half meter length of 3/8" (9.5-10mm) clear hose from the bleed nipple to an empty bottle. This allows you to more readily see if the fresh brake fluid has completely worked through the line and back to the WC/Cal.

Bleed again using above and once fresh fluid is seen on all 4 corners, test brake for firmness. Reply back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My car wasn't maintanced well by previous owners.
I'm not sure that rear breaks were in working condition. One of wheel cylinders just fell apart when I took it off.
This is why I'm searching for a new mc, it's like a plan B if mc piston seals are bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Is your location accurate? If so, how long has the vehicle been there and what do they primarily use to clear the roads of snow? Salt?

Question geared toward vehicle age and how cars that experience similar climate conditions "mature". I'm initially of the opinion your vehicle condition may be comparable to a mid-western or north-eastern car in the US. These vehicles tend to be subject to lots of road salt and this salt corrodes and eats frame, body and conduit lines alike.

If the above sounds true, thoroughly check the hard, steel brake lines for corrosion.

Did you replace the soft, rubber lines connecting hard lines to calipers/wheel cylinders?

Place the cap back atop the reservoir when bleeding. The speed bleeders you'll want are (I believe. Double check this for the rear wheel cylinders...) m10x1.0 for the rear and m10x1.5 for the front. Clean the spilled brake fluid thoroughly. It's an excellent paint remover.

Additionally, run a half meter length of 3/8" (9.5-10mm) clear hose from the bleed nipple to an empty bottle. This allows you to more readily see if the fresh brake fluid has completely worked through the line and back to the WC/Cal.

Bleed again using above and once fresh fluid is seen on all 4 corners, test brake for firmness. Reply back.
According to VIN the car was assambled in September 1992, Carfax says it left the US in the middle of 1993. So I guess it was new, when it came to Russia.

Yes, they usually use mix of salt and sand.
You can check a few pictures if you want http://fotki.yandex.ru/users/lostvegas/album/312994/?
My car has corrosion on rear fenders, backseat floor. Frame is rusty, just a bit, no terriblecorrosion, so I think it's ok.

Had to change steel brake line on the driver side rear wheel, because I broke it. So I made a new one using the same fitings. And replaced rubber hose on the right front caliper, it was in really bad shape.
Basicly all the steel brake lines have corrosion.

Never heard before about speed bleeders, just googled it, if I get it right I can install them instead of regular bleeders. Seems convenient.
 

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Very nice! good to see the car represented internationally.

May as well give you the full story on speed bleeders. I use them myself w/out issue. However, some have had issues w/ the one way valve leaking. If this is of any concern, use the speed bleeders to bleed and once satisfied, they can be removed and replaced w/ stock/standard bleeders. Put the speed bleeders in the tool box and they're ready for you next time the brakes require servicing.

Welcome, good luck and keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks!
I will check my local stores to see if they have speed bleeders.

I need to charge the battery (the car sits in garage since october) and after that I can test brake system.

If everything is fine next step will be replacing:
- generator with the new one
- smog pump with idler pulley
- power steering pump with remanufactured one
Belt Tensioner installation and of course new belt.
But I guess it will be another story )))
 

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One of the most common is the RUSSELL brand.
 

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Dorman also markets them along with a few other vendors. I needed them right away and AZ had the Dorman in stock and not the Russell brand.

I used them recently on the Fronts and they worked great. Nice not having someone be instucted over and over - "Brake - HOLD -Release, Brake - HOLD - Release.....". :)

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...j1fb5Z8knge?itemIdentifier=439086_305256_2826_

EDIT - OP - X2 on doing this with the lid on the resevoir and not off. I would do a gravity bleed first at all 4 calipers to flush out the fluid which can be done with the lid off. Making sure the level in the resevoir does not drop too low allowing air into the MC. Let the resevoir get as low as you feel comfortable and then use a lint free rag to wipe out the black crud from the inside of the resevoir.

Top off to the correct level once the fluid is clear and fresh, replace lid and then speed bleed each wheel starting at RR - LR - RF and LF. Another part to consider replacing if not already mentioned are the rubber flex hoses at each Caliper. They can get crud buit up over the years/miles that can prevent the calipers from releasing as they should and just plain safety hazard if too old.
 

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Thanks!
I will check my local stores to see if they have speed bleeders.
Hmmn. Doubtful, but possible. Probably an online item. Earlier, I quoted the rear wheel cylinders as being m10-1.0. This is incorrect. Rear wheel cylinder bleeders are m8-1.25. The fronts are m10-1.5.

- generator with the new one
If certain it requires replacement and a 105a, you may want to consider a 140a unit from a later 94-96 model. Belt diameter and pulley circumference are same. I believe the mounting is similar although some modification might be necessary. http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=331474&highlight=105+amp+alternator+140

- smog pump with idler pulley
There is a smog pump disable TSB here and many (outside of Kalifornia) delete and remove the system completely. Depending on how strictly your smog/emissions are, you may just want to delete it altogether. However, I'm not certain if this is applicable to 92-93 pumps. The disable TSB is for 94-96.

- power steering pump with remanufactured one
The OEM pump is more sound than the reman's. If it can at all be purged, cleaned and tested good, I'd rather stick w/ the original than roll the dice on a reman.
 

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I had a proportioning valve fail, and the rear brakes were the only ones working. It was somewhat strange, and my braking distance was excessive. IIRC, there are no new proportioning valves available. I picked one from a junk yard car and it worked fine. They do not seem to fail frequently, but if they do, it can be hazardous. They are fairly cheap at the yards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
If certain it requires replacement and a 105a, you may want to consider a 140a unit from a later 94-96 model. Belt diameter and pulley circumference are same. I believe the mounting is similar although some modification might be necessary. http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=331474&highlight=105+amp+alternator+140



There is a smog pump disable TSB here and many (outside of Kalifornia) delete and remove the system completely. Depending on how strictly your smog/emissions are, you may just want to delete it altogether. However, I'm not certain if this is applicable to 92-93 pumps. The disable TSB is for 94-96.



The OEM pump is more sound than the reman's. If it can at all be purged, cleaned and tested good, I'd rather stick w/ the original than roll the dice on a reman.
I have already bought 105A Remy, hope it was a good choice.
At the moment there is 80A unit from a russian car (installed by one of previous owners), it doesn't even fit properly, probably it was the reson to completely remove belt tensioner. It will be great if electrical part stayed untouched.

I'm going to delete the smog pump and all the tubes connected to it. And later i think i'll delete catalytic converter. As far as i know no one takes emissions laws seriously here. So the main problem will be unscrewing tubes out of manifolds, there are 4 fitings in each manifold.

My steering pump is leaking badly. I bought reman. ACDelco from Rockauto, because they didn't have new units.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I used them recently on the Fronts and they worked great. Nice not having someone be instucted over and over - "Brake - HOLD -Release, Brake - HOLD - Release.....". :)

Let the resevoir get as low as you feel comfortable and then use a lint free rag to wipe out the black crud from the inside of the resevoir.

They can get crud buit up over the years/miles that can prevent the calipers from releasing as they should and just plain safety hazard if too old.
This time i asked my mom to Brake - HOLD -Release while i was bleeding brakes. :)

When was ready to bleed the brakes, mc reservoir was absolutly empty so i had a chance to clean it.

I replaced only RF caliper hose. The rubber came off and i could see the inside fibers.
 
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