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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had checked my fluid and it was a little over minimum inside my master cylinder. I checked every brake caliper and brake line and noticed no leaks. The rear brake calipers and pads are fairly new i changed them 3 months ago. I did notice uneven brake wear on my front brake pads could that be the reason? Also while topping off my brake fluid i noticed a bunch of dirt inside so im pretty sure i need a new master cylinder. I just dont know if replacing my two front calipers and my master cylinder will fix the problem
 

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I would try bleeding the front brakes. If that does not fix it, then I would worry about replacing parts.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would try bleeding the front brakes. If that does not fix it, then I would worry about replacing parts.
Okay i will go ahead and do that after work. I might as well bleed all my brakes while im at it. I start with Right Rear, Left Rear, Front Right, then Front Left if im not mistaken
 

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The brake light is telling you the shuttle valve has moved due to pressure loss front or back. Once it has moved there may not be any more fluid leak to the leaking circuit.(front or back)

Take the wheels off and get someone to verify that each caliper moves the pads.

You need to find out why the brake light is on. As a guess based on your thread title you have lost the front brakes.

The only two things that will cause the brake (not ABS) light to turn on are: A brake failure which you seem to have, the park brake switch, or the ignition switch bulb test during start.
 

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I have a proportioning valve for at 94-96, if you need one. I would like $65 shipped.
 

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With just a caliper or wheel cylinder replacement, you don't need to do a specific order unless you let the master run dry. I prefer working toward the furthest in that case So i'd reverse your order.
 

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The rears are equidistant from the master cylinder, but the front left is closer. The reason you do the farthest first is so that any bubbles in the lines between the last split are removed from the lines of the further one. You probably should do it twice to make sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Alright so i think i found the problem. My rear driver brake caliper is leaking from the bleeder screw. Every time i push on the brake pedal very little seeps out the bleeder screw and i already have it tight. I havent even loosened it to begin with
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Alright so i think i found the problem. My rear driver brake caliper is leaking from the bleeder screw. Every time i push on the brake pedal very little seeps out the bleeder screw and i already have it tight. I havent even loosened it to begin with
I noticed it when i began bleeding the brake system from the back i started with the rear passenger and everything was good and coming up to the driver side i noticed it was already seeping a little brake fluid so i went ahead and turned the car on to pump the brakes and there was my leak right there. Can’t believe it tho since its really small
 

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I had checked my fluid and it was a little over minimum inside my master cylinder. I checked every brake caliper and brake line and noticed no leaks. The rear brake calipers and pads are fairly new i changed them 3 months ago. I did notice uneven brake wear on my front brake pads could that be the reason? Also while topping off my brake fluid I noticed a bunch of dirt inside so im pretty sure i need a new master cylinder. I just don't know if replacing my two front calipers and my master cylinder will fix the problem
if your brakes are firm with engine off, but soft pedal when engine is running, it could be stuck open solenoid in your abs

I had that problem with my 2001 Lumina while ago when I had it!
 

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Couple of things I would look at for yes soft peddle and light with no leaks would look at master cylinder. Now which end is working, which yes you would take off a front and back wheel and check moment at the caliper. One other thing you could as well is have your helper pump up brakes and go to the bleeder ports to see how it flows. I'm going to guess for I've seen the back chamber on the master cylinders go bad or squirt fluid out the back end of the cylinder as well hence the light. Now if your not loosing fluid, internal failure on one of the master cylinder chambers.

As for bleeding I was schooled and have always started with RR, LR, RF, LF. That way if there is air somewhere at least start from the farthest point. Now you can remove the old fluid first, add new and then start your bleed sequence. If you replace your fluid get as much as you can out and look inside to see if some crud might have plugged a port which might cause the issue.

ABS is interesting will have to dig in the book about that. Just my penny worth.

Make sure you are writing down what you have done for trouble shooting, lord i have tried to remember what did and still need to write it down.

Just my thoughts
 
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