[Guest]

I was driving around last night, not doing anything out of the ordinary. The brake pedal started to get softer and softer. I made it home and the pedal was about 1/2" from the floor to stop. I got underneath, checked all the lines for signs of leaking, the fluid level was still full as well. My initial thought is the master is leaking allowing the plunger to bypass it.

I was thinking to flush and bleed the system and then see what happens after that. Does anyone else have a suggestion?

The car is a '95 9c1, 170,000miles. Stealth bold mod. Pads are relatively new.

Thanks, NAESS

 

[Guest]

Don't know how often this happens in B-bodies, but a club member just had to renew his master cylinder because his was so bad hed had to pump up the brakes to get the car to stop.

 

[Guest]

If you found BF level ok in Master, buy/install a new Master[bench bleed first before installing].

 

[Guest]

My brakes have been doing this too for a bit. I tried bleeding the fronts for excess air. It felt good for a minute then back to the way it is. I hit the brakes and it goes almost to the floor, but it stops good and even when panic braking it goes far down,BUT stops good with ABS. If I first start braking as it goes down then get off it and hit it again, the brake pedal is then harder and like it's suppose to be.
Brake bolt mod, stainless brake lines, PF brake pads, and fluid resevoir okay.
What could it be? and please don't say Master Cylinder CAUSE it's really getting COLD up here in Jersie and my garage can't be used this winter...

 

[Guest]

ALSO, if you have rear disc brakes, inspect Rear Caliper Slide Pins. If one or more are frozen, this could cause low petal!
www.impalassforum.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=23;t=001448#000003

 

[Guest]

Yes, if you live anywhere where corrosion can be a problem (salted roads, high humidity) then you should more frequently check the slider pins all the way around the car.

 

[Guest]

Originally posted by Raxstone:
Yes, if you live anywhere where corrosion can be a problem (salted roads, high humidity) then you should more frequently check the slider pins all the way around the car.

Front Caliper design is different, Rears are the one's likely to seize up.

 

[Guest]

Originally posted by Heavyevy:
My brakes have been doing this too for a bit. I tried bleeding the fronts for excess air. It felt good for a minute then back to the way it is. I hit the brakes and it goes almost to the floor, but it stops good and even when panic braking it goes far down,BUT stops good with ABS. If I first start braking as it goes down then get off it and hit it again, the brake pedal is then harder and like it's suppose to be.
Brake bolt mod, stainless brake lines, PF brake pads, and fluid resevoir okay.
What could it be? and please don't say Master Cylinder CAUSE it's really getting COLD up here in Jersie and my garage can't be used this winter...

This is exactly what mine do. I'm going to try bleeding mine here in a few days.

 

[Guest]

Another fun job to do soon I guess. Thanks for the input all.

NAESS

 

[Guest]

Update............

After droppin' a couple bucks into a new master cylinder I'm bleeding away with a buddy when I hear a hissing sound. I tell him to pump the brakes and push like a mother****er. Lo and behold the parking brake cable had rubbed through one of the steel lines and caused a pinhole leak. It went through the spiral wrapping and everything. It was on the passenger side of the rear diff in case anyone else wants to crawl under their car also. Tomorrow I'll get another hardline and hopefully all this BS will be behind me.

NAESS