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did this fix pre-emptively to the drivers door, one slider was cracked but together, window was just a little labored going up.
window out was best for me, I cleaned the channel and greased everything that moved.
2" clamp wouldn't work for me, kept walking off the arm.
I used 90 degree channel locks pretty as you please, regular channels may not have done it
works a treat now
 

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did this fix pre-emptively to the drivers door, one slider was cracked but together, window was just a little labored going up.
window out was best for me, I cleaned the channel and greased everything that moved.
2" clamp wouldn't work for me, kept walking off the arm.
I used 90 degree channel locks pretty as you please, regular channels may not have done it
works a treat now
I was tempted to remove the window but I had the tools and was taking my time did it with the window in place .. did not break anything ..

I have used silicone brake grease on these slides.. years ago lithium white grease.. the brake grease works better in cold temps and not affected by moisture. stays soft .
 

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Like many, I had a ****ty experience the first time I did this. I did both windows on the drivers side.

I should have done the passenger side at the same time but I didn't...and this summer the back passenger window popped out of the track and ruined the tint. So I fixed that and did the front too just so I could be done with it.

This time around...it didn't even take me an hour. Didn't use any clamps either. As has been stated here, the rollers/sliders never get near the end of the track. I bent mine open with a pair of channel locks. I also popped the new rollers on with channel locks. I had a bit of a hard time finding a good angle to pop them on but it doesn't have to be a perfect 90 degrees. Greased with caliper grease and didn't bother trying to bend the tracks back. I didn't use a dremel because I couldn't get a good angle with it. But mine is a older and rather large unit.
 

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this summer the rear window roller popped . 1st time I had to do it . next time I will be able to do it much faster ..

my friend has a caddy same rollers. one of his broke this summer .. took to dealership . he a guy with a fat wallet , wanted all 4 rollers replaced $800..........took the dealership ALL DAY.....
 

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If the guy with a fat wallet can make an extra $2000 in the time it takes to do the job, he made the right decision.
 

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he makes his huge income on stocks and he is very happy with what is going on now in the stock market ..my family member made $10K the last 3 months ..
Hey that's great for your friend & family I would say MAGA but some would think that inappropriate here. :wink2:

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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It will offend some when they hear , some people make money and it requires no sweat.
very smart people on this type investing.. same with learning how to fix these cars on this forum LOL.. $$$..
Since we have gotten so far off topic I just want to say that you're correct about learning here. I really didn't have any idea about the opti. Well I have learned that if I ever was to go to an LT I would circumvent that and go to the torque head. And to be proper & bring it back on topic, I have all the door panels off my car and all the parts to convert over to rollers instead of the junk sliders. Threads such as this and many others have been so helpful.

Mark: 'Snowman-33
 

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Since we have gotten so far off topic I just want to say that you're correct about learning here. I really didn't have any idea about the opti. Well I have learned that if I ever was to go to an LT I would circumvent that and go to the torque head. And to be proper & bring it back on topic, I have all the door panels off my car and all the parts to convert over to rollers instead of the junk sliders. Threads such as this and many others have been so helpful.

Mark: 'Snowman-33
the sliders did last for me 22 yrs... now most people do not own 22 yr old vehicles . also even if a person does own a vehicle this old not gonna lube the door slide guides every few years. the roller design is better less stress ..
my suggestion is lube those guides with silicone brake grease .. not lithium white grease .. could be I have only one break is , I drive with the windows up .. only use the front window often .. rear driver side broke , rare I use those rear windows ...
 

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The rollers are available locally at almost all parts stores. They usually have only one of the rollers. Rock Auto is often cheaper even with shipping, and you can order the number you need. You usually need 2-3 for each window. The two at the bottom of the glass, and sometimes one on the bottom track. Sometimes the bottom slider is already a roller.
 

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Before I came here and learned more, I bought the flat stock replacement sliders.(They broke again within two years) Then I found out about the roller fix. (Here) I got mine at AZ but I believe Mike at Hamilton Chevrolet has the kits for the fix. If I remember correctly they even include the Christmas trees to reattach the door panels. BTW, Mike has gotten many kudos for his service and shipping. If you go to the first post in this thread you will see the what and hows of doing this repair.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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Can you still buy the plastic replacements. My 96 back window just jumped off the track and before I try taking the door apart I want to make sure I have the window guides...
this summer the rear driver side window guide broke. so to get it quickly I got it at advance auto .. it was about $5..

the track had grease but was not very soft and lubing. I used silicone brake grease on the track .
I also used silicone spray on the rubber guides all windows ... move much faster less friction.

when winter arrives I do spray the window guides and the door seals with silicone ... ice up here ..
 

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Can you still buy the plastic replacements. My 96 back window just jumped off the track and before I try taking the door apart I want to make sure I have the window guides...

I recently did my front drivers door,
their are hundreds of listings on ebay
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_od...S0&_nkw=impala+caprice+window+guides&_sacat=0

you will also need a drill+ drill bit
or
dremel + cutting/grinding stone

to remove the rivets.

you also need a new set of rivets to keep the window on the track or use nuts and a bolt for easy removal if the clip breaks again.

I used this
Hex Bolt size is 10-32; I think it was 3/4 long.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-B...et-Cap-Head-Cap-Screws-2-Pack-44898/203576011

with a nut that has the plastic inside similar to this
https://www.google.com/search?q=nut...5PvYAhUQHGMKHTwRDbQQ_AUICygC&biw=1920&bih=925


took me less then 30 seconds to install them. if the plastics break again I will be able to take of the window in a matter of minutes. instead of the hour or two it took me to take off the rivets.
 

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The rollers are all nylon.

I always turn down the back of the upper track. I so not have to remove the track from the glass, or remove any screws or rivets. The slider just comes out, and the roller goes in. No drills, no rivets, no bolts, and once changed you will probably never have to change them again for 50 years.
 

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Why are people removing the rivets,I never did.....
 
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