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In my case...if you search this site the first and only how to that comes up is the one that recommends doing so.

I figured out you didn't have to after the fact.
Yea- I did the same.

I vaguely remember the arms extending past the rivets for some odd reason (I think the PO had bend the ends during the previous replacement?)- so for me- having the bolt and screw gave me the piece of mind that they would no longer go past the point. Ever. Again.
 

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I have yet to bend the tracks back up, and the arms have not fallen out. The rollers can not extend past the rivets, because the sliders are a lot longer than the rollers, and they do not extend to the rivets.
 

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Using a good doorpad plug tool, locate the doorpad plugs (In the doorpad pic). The gently pull out in an area close to rear of the doorpad, and pop out the 1st doorpad plug with the tool.....Repeat until all 4 doorpad plugs are removed from the door.
So what is a "good" door plug tool for these cars? I've been meaning to buy the proper tool for this for a while. Gotta beat ruining the tabs every time and risking screwing up the door panel! Since I will be doing the window rollers on my '94 wagon, I think I'd like to have one of these for my tool box before I start.
 

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I just use one of these with a bunch of electrical tape wrapped around it.
 

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^^^^^^^^^^^^
Gee, I never thought of that.:grin2:
 

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WWZ, I saw and replied to your question about the breaker bar. But what you will find online may be just the same quality as what's available at Harbor Freight. they do have lifetime warranty on many of their tools. But what I posted above works real well. They do have some metal tools for the job too, if that's what you feel you need. I'm sure Chi Town has at least one HF. Suck up, Ruck up, Drive on. I'm sure if you just have to pay the extra you can find something at Eastwood's or other sites online.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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Look at this one! All those HF tools gbhs likes plus a couple others and a case for 24 smacks! Astro Tool from Summit
 

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Kudos on the find. It looks just like the HF tools I linked you to. Plus you get a few extra & the case. Just shows to go ya. Seek and ye shall find. BTW the HF stuff is just easier to get something when I need it. I have Mac, Snap On, Mac, Matco and a lot of other brands from years of collecting what I needed to work. Then things like 12 point and metric came along and changed my life.:laugh:
Good luck with your doors and roller fix. Just go at it carefully. Those panels are tender.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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I ended up with one from Amazon that had more stuff and a case for everything, for just a few bucks more! 18 pc Trim Removal Set
 

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I did this around 9/20/2010 on pass front. Gotta do the DR rear now... Fun is.... NOT. :p
-ALF out....
 

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I did this around 9/20/2010 on pass front. Gotta do the DR rear now... Fun is.... NOT. :p
-ALF out....
just did driver window today.

one thing, i probably over reacted to this, but, i really did not want to stick my hand in there... especially with the auto down feature, on the driver door...while batt was live. So, I got it into position, then removed the batt cables, (neg first off, then neg last on), each time, before doing any work in there. Just me over reacting I'm sure, but kinda how I'm wired.

to it: used long needle nose to bend (lightly pry) the rear end of track open, slid two new rollers in from the back (they seemed like they would not go in, but used the end of channel locks (rubber handle), and pried them in... (pried agains the edge of the rear cut out) pop! they went over the rivit in the channel, no worse for wear. I scrubbed the channel as best i could to removed old grease, and re-greases. I lined up the "balls" and used channel locks on one, small c-clamp on the other. did not remove arm rest. got all done, went to test it, but had front of driver (from when popped both of the old ones off...keep your hand on the window, so it doesn't fall), but when that happened, the front window must have slid out of the rubber/felt channel in the front. uhg. had to pop front one (front) out again, and re-align. popped ball it back in. I did hit the new rollers, (while in the channel), with a hair dryer for 2-3 min., before popping them in... could not tell if it helped, but believe it did. Did not even know about third slider... (panel still off, so will check it).

my experience, the panels are the most important thing, like others have done, i sawed the bottom two plastic clips off (pulled hack-saw blade out of my hacksaw, put some tape on the end like a handle and tah-dahh cut thru the bottom two)... this panel is my second one... had to find a replacement, (ebay $$) as the plastic was damaged beyond repair, the areas that hold the clips, leaving bottom of panel loose. (i think just from years of shutting it, over and over again, or dealer doing the job, (they did once years ago) ...the tech doing it, may not have had as much concern for the panel, etc...as an owner would. prying those clips off... against a plastic door panel is a crap shoot (IMHO)... the panel is so fragile, so cut bottom two, and the rest were nice, and came out with pry tool, it was flat and had a channel in it with a handle on the end. worked okay.

the biggest issues for me, that require the most care, at least for me, is the electrical connections, take your time, and be careful to pull them apart. some are easy, others, took a while (need a third hand, to hold the clip open, and have enough hand strength to pull them apart. eventually got them.

... and watch the window to be sure it's in the groove before you snap those in ;-P

thank you to everyone for their thoughts and tips, this site is amazing. (I also have the Qualoss paper... that is pulitzer material to me ;-) window works well now.

(my main reason for doing it straight away, (broke on Friday) was smoking cigars in the car.. gotta have a working window ;-)

thanks again to all.
 

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just did driver window today.

one thing, i probably over reacted to this, but, i really did not want to stick my hand in there... especially with the auto down feature, on the driver door...while batt was live. So, I got it into position, then removed the batt cables, (neg first off, then neg last on), each time, before doing any work in there. Just me over reacting I'm sure, but kinda how I'm wired.

to it: used long needle nose to bend (lightly pry) the rear end of track open, slid two new rollers in from the back (they seemed like they would not go in, but used the end of channel locks (rubber handle), and pried them in... (pried agains the edge of the rear cut out) pop! they went over the rivit in the channel, no worse for wear. I scrubbed the channel as best i could to removed old grease, and re-greases. I lined up the "balls" and used channel locks on one, small c-clamp on the other. did not remove arm rest. got all done, went to test it, but had front of driver (from when popped both of the old ones off...keep your hand on the window, so it doesn't fall), but when that happened, the front window must have slid out of the rubber/felt channel in the front. uhg. had to pop front one (front) out again, and re-align. popped ball it back in. I did hit the new rollers, (while in the channel), with a hair dryer for 2-3 min., before popping them in... could not tell if it helped, but believe it did. Did not even know about third slider... (panel still off, so will check it).

my experience, the panels are the most important thing, like others have done, i sawed the bottom two plastic clips off (pulled hack-saw blade out of my hacksaw, put some tape on the end like a handle and tah-dahh cut thru the bottom two)... this panel is my second one... had to find a replacement, (ebay $$) as the plastic was damaged beyond repair, the areas that hold the clips, leaving bottom of panel loose. (i think just from years of shutting it, over and over again, or dealer doing the job, (they did once years ago) ...the tech doing it, may not have had as much concern for the panel, etc...as an owner would. prying those clips off... against a plastic door panel is a crap shoot (IMHO)... the panel is so fragile, so cut bottom two, and the rest were nice, and came out with pry tool, it was flat and had a channel in it with a handle on the end. worked okay.

the biggest issues for me, that require the most care, at least for me, is the electrical connections, take your time, and be careful to pull them apart. some are easy, others, took a while (need a third hand, to hold the clip open, and have enough hand strength to pull them apart. eventually got them.

... and watch the window to be sure it's in the groove before you snap those in ;-P

thank you to everyone for their thoughts and tips, this site is amazing. (I also have the Qualoss paper... that is pulitzer material to me ;-) window works well now.

(my main reason for doing it straight away, (broke on Friday) was smoking cigars in the car.. gotta have a working window ;-)

thanks again to all.
When you remove the door panel, you must disconnect the switch panel, and therefore the window motors are not powered.
 

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just did driver window today.

one thing, i probably over reacted to this, but, i really did not want to stick my hand in there... especially with the auto down feature, on the driver door...while batt was live. So, I got it into position, then removed the batt cables, (neg first off, then neg last on), each time, before doing any work in there. Just me over reacting I'm sure, but kinda how I'm wired.

to it: used long needle nose to bend (lightly pry) the rear end of track open, slid two new rollers in from the back (they seemed like they would not go in, but used the end of channel locks (rubber handle), and pried them in... (pried agains the edge of the rear cut out) pop! they went over the rivit in the channel, no worse for wear. I scrubbed the channel as best i could to removed old grease, and re-greases. I lined up the "balls" and used channel locks on one, small c-clamp on the other. did not remove arm rest. got all done, went to test it, but had front of driver (from when popped both of the old ones off...keep your hand on the window, so it doesn't fall), but when that happened, the front window must have slid out of the rubber/felt channel in the front. uhg. had to pop front one (front) out again, and re-align. popped ball it back in. I did hit the new rollers, (while in the channel), with a hair dryer for 2-3 min., before popping them in... could not tell if it helped, but believe it did. Did not even know about third slider... (panel still off, so will check it).

my experience, the panels are the most important thing, like others have done, i sawed the bottom two plastic clips off (pulled hack-saw blade out of my hacksaw, put some tape on the end like a handle and tah-dahh cut thru the bottom two)... this panel is my second one... had to find a replacement, (ebay $$) as the plastic was damaged beyond repair, the areas that hold the clips, leaving bottom of panel loose. (i think just from years of shutting it, over and over again, or dealer doing the job, (they did once years ago) ...the tech doing it, may not have had as much concern for the panel, etc...as an owner would. prying those clips off... against a plastic door panel is a crap shoot (IMHO)... the panel is so fragile, so cut bottom two, and the rest were nice, and came out with pry tool, it was flat and had a channel in it with a handle on the end. worked okay.

the biggest issues for me, that require the most care, at least for me, is the electrical connections, take your time, and be careful to pull them apart. some are easy, others, took a while (need a third hand, to hold the clip open, and have enough hand strength to pull them apart. eventually got them.

... and watch the window to be sure it's in the groove before you snap those in ;-P

thank you to everyone for their thoughts and tips, this site is amazing. (I also have the Qualoss paper... that is pulitzer material to me ;-) window works well now.

(my main reason for doing it straight away, (broke on Friday) was smoking cigars in the car.. gotta have a working window ;-)

thanks again to all.
When you remove the door panel, you must disconnect the switch panel, and therefore the window motors are not powered.
 

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To open up the track, I found using a 1/2" extension right at the crimped end of the rail using my 1/2" drive socket wrench. Turning the extension opens up the rail quickly. The 1/2" drive just fits into the rail area and as you turn the square, the corners expand the rail to get the plastic guides out.
 
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