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Discussion Starter #21
BTW the thirdgen TBI forums is a WEALTH of information on these engines.

What are you doing about the cylinder heads? I ask because TBI B-bodies have a unique conundrum where the vortec intake doesn't have the correct sized hole for the stock distributor. The stock intake doesn't mate well with the ports on the vortec heads. Add in the regular issues being the vortec heads need work to run the springs neccessary for more than a mild cam. The TBI heads flow patheticly in stock form and have a poorer chamber design.

I just finished building a TBI for my 95 Tahoe. I chose to use stock TBI heads that I moderately ported based on this guys videos (although I didn't go as extreme as him)


I used an F-body LT1 cam. .[/QUOTE]
I tossed out the tbi heads and inatke last year when i broke this truck motor down. I have new vortec heads victor reinz head gaskets and an LT4 cam. intake will have to be drilled out for B body size on smith machine
 

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I have plain steelies. I lost a 9c1 hubcap in '15 before i parked it and cant find a good one anywhere so I figured I'd drill and tap for center caps and keep it simple. too many pot holes where i live for anything fancy unless a roadtrip down south
Those look good on some early truck rallies. You can have them powder coated. They come in 7 & 8 inch X 15. 5 on 5 too. I got some for $25 a piece. It did cost $50 each to powder coat them. That seemed bass ackwards to me.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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I have a set of trim rings from a 9C1 for sale. $100 plus shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Hey I am looking for Opinions. I used one of 1/2" click torque wrenches i use for wheels to lock a head and it snapped head bolt off like glass- never clicked. I had machinist extract bolt-$0. Machinist says good to go. I get a set of bolts off him for one head. I put that head back on and used my buddy's snap-on beam click torque wrench to lock bolts down. Problem is that on final pass it'd give a weak click and I double pull to make sure its locked down but the bolts still seamed to move a hair more getting it to click again. I got fed up with situation and wrapped up for the day to get my mind right-going through a shift change at work. I purchased an AC Delco digital read out torque adapter over the weekend to do other head with the bolts i purchased from the machinist.



Would I be wrong to loosen the other bolts and re torque the first head? if I did would gasket be affected? Does it matter that I used the washers that came with the bolts even though they're iron heads?



just for added info: I used other half of head bolt set(Elgin) for the one head and other is getting Liberty head bolts
 

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Use the same make head bolts on both sides. Have you tried ARP? They are nice bolts.

When you tighten a head bolt you should make the last pass, then go around and make sure the toque is even. They may move a little, but it is because they stretch, and it may take a little more to get them fully torqued down.

The head gasket may still be usable. The 3 ply metal ones should be good.
 

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did you run a tap through the block? did you put thread sealer on the threads of the bolt? did you put 30 weight oil under the washer and head of bolt? i would trust the snapon before some torque adapter. arp is nice but not necessary for a stock type build unless you want a warm & fuzzy.

EDIT
if you want to replace bolts on other head, remove one at a time, replace, torque in 3 stages then remove next bolt. i have done before. i usually go in torque sequence for a warm & fuzzy but realistically it doesnt matter on iron head + iron block.
 

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Special delivery for me

It's getting late. Is that last pic an alum. rocker? I could never afford pretty stuff like that when growing up, so popped for a purple set of Howards rollers for my son's project Monte stroker. And cracked every single one of the intakes. Or exhaust, but all 8 of one or the other IDR. Now have Comp Ultra Pro Magnums (after gentle reaming by smarties on here). Just sayin'.

Good write-up and stout build otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
no I have not yet but they are self aligning and narrow width. all the roller tips and fulcrums operate by hand smothly. once i put the other head on I will need to test fit as you mentoned and i have to measure pushrod length.


I was recommended these or magnums off ThirdGen's site for stock covers but I'm leanring nothing is always as it seems lol
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I did a little research.


  1. the torque wrench I used was too big for SBC head bolt torque. The accuracy for that one was 30% of max scale which is 75ft/lbs. so I'll use my Digital torque adapter or 3/8 click micrometer torque wrench.
  2. The split beam torque wrench I used I cant verify its calibration and 65 ft/lbs is low in scale so it clicks weak.
  3. I should not had put lube under washer where it contact the iron head-only on top for the bolt head.
so now I have to get new bolts for that single head and a new 5746 Clevite head gasket for peace of mind if i stretched those bolts or over torqued it again.
this set me back a couple weeks. lesson learned
 
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