Chevy Impala SS Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts
E

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Just had Hotchkis springs and new shocks installed. The 9C1 sits only a little more than an inch lower in front. I was expecting at least a 2-2 1/2" drop in front. I asked my mechanic if only one drain hole was covered and if everything was tightened back up while car was sitting at ride height. He said yes. He also told me that however the original cop springs were installed is how the new ones were put in.

Are the stabilizer bar links a standard length no matter what spring is in there? He put new links in. There's about 3" of the metal part of the link between the two pieces of rubber. Does that sound right? Are there different length links depending on the spring? Also, there is a little over an inch of space between the Hotchkis bumpstop and the arm (not sure on the part description
). Does that sound about right? Can anyone help me out here to explain only the ~1" drop? Thanks.
 
V

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Originally posted by enigma9c1:
Just had Hotchkis springs and new shocks installed. The 9C1 sits only a little more than an inch lower in front. I was expecting at least a 2-2 1/2" drop in front.
Give it some time, they will settle and the car will drop more.

Originally posted by enigma9c1:
I asked my mechanic if only one drain hole was covered and if everything was tightened back up while car was sitting at ride height. He said yes. He also told me that however the original cop springs were installed is how the new ones were put in.
Check it youself. Jack the car up, find the drain holes on the bottom of the spring pocket. Stick your finger inside and feel for the end of the spring. The end should just clear both holes.

Originally posted by enigma9c1:
Are the stabilizer bar links a standard length no matter what spring is in there? He put new links in. There's about 3" of the metal part of the link between the two pieces of rubber. Does that sound right? Are there different length links depending on the spring?
With the car sitting on the ground, the end of the bar should be close to horizontal, if not you can different lengths at any parts store.

Originally posted by enigma9c1:
Also, there is a little over an inch of space between the Hotchkis bumpstop and the arm (not sure on the part description
). Does that sound about right?
Yes, but if the ride is a bit stiff you can shave a little off with a hack saw, but don't cut too much off or the excess travel could cause problems elsewhere.
 
E

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the response, Kamchief. I love the way the rear looks now (That didn't sound right, did it? :eek: ). To me, it looks perfect, ie the expected drop. Hopefully, the front will settle another 1-1 1/2" lower as I expected. I did a lot of research when choosing a drop spring, one that would be pleasing to my eye but not too low for clearance purposes. I think it looks good, but one more inch in front would look just right.

It handles nicely, too. No more float. The mechanic said it wasn't his cup of tea, that he could feel every little bump in the road. I couldn't disagree with him more. Plenty of cushion, just not as much as before.
 
B

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Originally posted by Kamchief1:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by enigma9c1:
Just had Hotchkis springs and new shocks installed. The 9C1 sits only a little more than an inch lower in front. I was expecting at least a 2-2 1/2" drop in front.
Give it some time, they will settle and the car will drop more.

Originally posted by enigma9c1:
I asked my mechanic if only one drain hole was covered and if everything was tightened back up while car was sitting at ride height. He said yes. He also told me that however the original cop springs were installed is how the new ones were put in.
Check it youself. Jack the car up, find the drain holes on the bottom of the spring pocket. Stick your finger inside and feel for the end of the spring. The end should just clear both holes.

Originally posted by enigma9c1:
Are the stabilizer bar links a standard length no matter what spring is in there? He put new links in. There's about 3" of the metal part of the link between the two pieces of rubber. Does that sound right? Are there different length links depending on the spring?
With the car sitting on the ground, the end of the bar should be close to horizontal, if not you can different lengths at any parts store.

Originally posted by enigma9c1:
Also, there is a little over an inch of space between the Hotchkis bumpstop and the arm (not sure on the part description
). Does that sound about right?
Yes, but if the ride is a bit stiff you can shave a little off with a hack saw, but don't cut too much off or the excess travel could cause problems elsewhere.
</font>[/QUOTE]I thought the front springs were supposed to be between the two drain holes. Covering the first one and not the second one?

Matt
 
V

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Originally posted by Buffman:
I thought the front springs were supposed to be between the two drain holes. Covering the first one and not the second one?

Matt
Then why have 2 if not as a back-up if one gets clogged. I mean they are there to keep water from puddling and rusting out the spring pocket, right?

By the way enigma9c1, hope you don't get too attached to the way the rear site. My brother had these in his SS and the front/rear dropped almost equally to the point that it looked like it was squatting(?) in the rear. He ended up putting air bags in after installing Scott's trunk kit because it really got out of hand (read: ride was terrible).
 
E

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Buffman- Yes, I did read in the Haynes manual and on a couple of threads here where one, but not both, holes should be covered. I had the car up on ramps this afternoon changing the oil and filter. I looked at those two tiny holes, and for the life of me I can't determine a damn thing. I can't see whether one, two, or no holes are covered. Is there some kind of trick to determine this?

Kamchief- That's why I didn't get the Intrax or STs. I wanted a drop, but I wanted it driveable. It's my daily driver. I don't want to look like
every time I approach a speedbump or slight incline. I've read nothing but positive comments on Hotchkis springs. I think in the end I'll be happy with them. If you've heard anything else, though, let me know.
 
C

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Look underneath the control arm to determine if the end of the spring is even close. I too am of the mind that only ONE hole is to be covered. The point of two holes is not only draining, but alignment as well. Hopefully while on the jack you can align the spring properly
 
V

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Originally posted by enigma9c1:
Is there some kind of trick to determine this?
You could try to stick a nail or something up through the hole.
 
E

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Anybody else drop a 9C1 with Hotchkis springs and only get ~1.25" up front? It was my understanding that a 9C1 is 2" higher than an Impala. If it's an advertised 1.3" drop on an Impala, then wouldn't I get a 3" drop?
 
E

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Well, got under the car again and found that the end wire of the spring was beyond BOTH holes. It's only supposed to cover the first hole. The fu#king jerkoff expert mechanic installed the fronts incorrectly. They're not seated properly. That's telling me that is why the other 1-2" drop I was supposed to get isn't there.

What do I tell him when I go back so he can do the job right? Should he put it on a lift, loosen the lower control arm bolts, rotate the springs so only the first hole is covered, lower the car, then tighten bolts? Sound right?
 
E

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Anybody?

I went back to the garage this morning and explained to them the various possibilities why the car only came down ~1" up front. If it was more than one reason, I did't know (upside down, not sitting in locators in top perch, bolts tightened before car was sitting on it's own weight). BUT what I did know was that the bottom part of the spring was covering both holes and not just the first one. So it can't be seating correctly. I could only comment on what I observed.

The mechanic says, "If you are accusing me of..." I told him to hold on, that I wasn't accusing him of anything. I told him what I did observe and possibly why the car isn't sitting as low as it should, and the reason I was asking him all the questions was obviously because I want to assure myself that the job was done right. I told him that I didn't want any controversy. I knew this was going to happen. He started talking about putting the new springs in the way the old ones came out. I said that was irrelevant since he didn't put the old ones in. My concern was how the new ones went in, and reminded him there is only one correct way they should be seated to arrive at the correct end result.

The shop manager (the guy who will be doing the alignment) was cool about it. I told him if I wanted to be a prick about it, I'd be raising holy hell and demanding he fixed things like right now. I understand his mechanic is pressed for time and is under pressure. I explained to him I wanted to keep coming back and was sure they wanted my business as well. In his mechanic's defense, the manager said that on the rare occasion something isn't done right, he gets really pissed off at noone else but himself. I told him that was a good thing. Anyway, I'm back in there on Monday.
 
A

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Sounds like this mnechanic doesn't know as much as he should about front end installs ;)

Not sure what to tell you to do, other than this is just reaffirming why I do absolutely as much of my own work as possible
 
M

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Originally posted by Kamchief1:
By the way enigma9c1, hope you don't get too attached to the way the rear site. My brother had these in his SS and the front/rear dropped almost equally to the point that it looked like it was squatting(?) in the rear. He ended up putting air bags in after installing Scott's trunk kit because it really got out of hand (read: ride was terrible).
Wouldnt the shocks be an issue? I have Hack's trunk kit, with Hack's sub boxes and a spare. I have put people in the back and still have a comfortable ride. I have had full trunks, 4 passengers and driven 300 miles to Vegas. The ride was fine. That did make it sag a tad, but it was still drivable and comfortable.

I am running Hotchkis springs, sways, lca's, tie rod sleeves. I am using them with the firm 1104/0929 Bils.

Enigma,
When you get the springs to sit correctly, I would highly recommend the ZQ8 bumpstops. You can get them for under $30 and will notice a great improvement up front. I wouldn't bother cutting the Hotchkis stops.

Here is my car, with Hack's Trunk Kit, and Sub Boxes. No saggin here and the springs have been in over a year and 15k miles.
 
E

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Ed- I'm not as proficient as a lot of guys on this forum. I can do some of the easier stuff, but tackling 9C1 springs is not in the mix. It's my only car and knowing me, it would take days to complete once I got all the right tools together. I know what you mean, though.

Thump- I plan on getting the stops from Dal. Heard a lot of good comments on them. It was nice of Wayne to post some pictures of them not too long ago. Even I can't mess up screwing in a couple of bumpstops...hopefully
. Thanks.
 
E

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Today the mechanic indexed the fronts correctly (end of spring covering one hole). He also made sure the tops were seated properly, and that everything was tightened back up after car was resting on its own weight. Still the same height as the first time the springs were put in. Before with 9C1 springs- 29". After the Hotchkis spring install- 27 7/8".

1 1/2 - 2" down to Impala height plus the 1.3" drop the Hotchkis springs are supposed to give a Caprice 9C1 should mean a 3" drop to 26". I would have been happy with 2" and a 27" measurement. That would put the fender lip almost even to the top of my 255/50-17 tires.

Someone else on this forum put Hotchkis on his '94 9C1 and reported a 3" drop. It's driving me crazy trying to figure out the reason for getting only 1 1/8" in front. The back dropped what it was supposed to- ~3". Knowing all this, can someone shed some light on why this has happened? Thanks.
 
J

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Is it possible that a prior owner already replaced the 9C1 springs with Impala types or that the 9C1's were sagging due to age? That could be your difference.
Jonathan
 
E

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
No, Jon. I've got the 9C1 springs that came out. Impala springs wouldn't have the front sitting at 29". Neither would sagging 9C1 springs.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top