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there are couple of things that I will get from Kore3, but I am truly on the fence about the hubs from them, not that they aren't great, I may just make my own from an old set of brakes, not sure yet.
from what I remember of the precrash stuff, somebody tried to make hubs by machining off the rotors or at least measured them and something about there not being enough material left afterwards.
:confused:
 

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bearing play is set like stock ones, afaik I dont think kore offers a preset bearing option.
there is a washer assortment to set up the caliper so its centered over the rotor.
 

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Mhttp://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=236934&highlight=Kore3ike,
This thread has the info on the shim kit.
I put it on my HD12 kit from Bill last year. It is more time consuming to set up than the standard GM procedure but it think it provides a more solid feel.
Ken
interesting, I vaguely remember that thread altho I dont remember seeing anything on kore3's site about it.
big trucks been using various forms of that for the last 30 years, usually supposed to torque the spindle nut to 350 ftlbs :D

Hub's will be here Thursday and I will most likely have everything for the front complete this weekend sometime, I would imagine anyway.
Im pretty sure theyll include the instructions on where to cut the spindle, I used my dewalt 18v sawzall with a metal blade then smoothed the cuts with a power grinder and sanding disc.
if you paint the spindles be sure to clean off the paint at the contact points where the adaptor brackets bolt on, iirc thats also where the centering washers should go.
 

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I pulled out the BRAND NEW 5/8 spindles that I was going to cut up for the mod and I just couldn't do it, they were to pretty :)

I put them back in the box, and they are on the maybe use later shelf. Got both of the old brake shield holes drilled and tapped as required, cleaned up the calipers as they were used, very low mileage mine you, but still used and GM pads from the factory are DUSTY bastards, The pads and pins came with the calipers, but I may not use the pads and just get new ones. Not sure yet.
no guts, no glory cwm3

new spindles wouldve been nice, lay some fresh paint on them instead of having to clean off years of buildup first.
but Im stubborn like that :D
 

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Yeah but the units that are on my car are very low mileage 96 units, maybe 15K on them, they sat for sometime hence the rust bubbling through, but I am going to take care of that :)

I just couldn't cut up the new ones, had the sawzall in hand with my portable bandsaw in the other and well as you see by the pics. I figured I would cut up my old ones, and if I screwed those up I would have a back up. But I think they came out alright. :)
dam, makes me glad for snow and salt free socal.
just make sure to clean up any sharp nicks/cuts to prevent stress risers before repainting.
I used the duplicolor ceramic engine paint in cast iron coat because it sticks to almost anything.
I painted the front sway bar with it about 6 years ago, wire brushed the loose rust off first and no peeling so far.

 

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yw, I also sanded off the new paint where the brackets and center washers bolt in.
the centering washers could go on the bracket to caliper bolts but there was something on my setup that didnt make that a good idea, got crs on that one.
also make sure theres clearance between the head of the caliper allen bolts and the spindle so theres no touching or binding.

to paraphrase George, "youre going to like the way you stop, I guarantee it" ;)
 

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dewalt 18v sawzall and power grinder with a sanding wheel to smooth it out.
 

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I forget all the names but if youve done the two brake valve mods (stealth bolt and ???) you should be ok.

my abs conks out cuz of a intermittant open LF sensor Im too lazy to chase down.
I did a panic stop when a bimbo hooked a left in front of me when I was doing about 30, perfect front brake only lock up and stopped so fast I had probably 15 ft or more to spare :D


 

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lookes goode, have you ordered the por15 yet? ;)
 

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Blow it out your ass Mr. Rust free LOL I should own stock in that company :)
haha, I ordered a case of it a few months ago.
I wanna drop the rear axle and make it look decent not to mention the panhard project feasibility study.

I just realized I have a vacation week later next month too cwm3
 

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Nice work. Finally, some big brakes to go with the big wheels. My question, though, is this; the rear calipers bolt on to the axle flange and don't move around at all, why do you need braided brake lines back there? I would figure all you need is just a steel line, maybe bend a 180 in it to handle any flex due to heat expansion and movement as the suspension moves around a bit, but could you have saved more ca$h by eliminating the braided hose at the rear calipers?

Just wondering. Thanks.

always a flex line to a caliper, saves having to break open/bleed the system if the caliper has to be pulled off the rotor for brake jobs or axle work.
 

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Well figured I would update this. Everything is complete and getting ready for Nationals, in the alignment shop right now, brakes seem great still breaking them in, so dont know for sure yet, but crossing fingers all is good
notice any pedal feel change before/after?
 
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