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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got the email from Aaron at clear image that my new Gen II tri y headers will ship out tomorrow so now the teardown for the cam swap begins. I will be installing a CC 503 cam to go with the 10" 3000 stall converter that I have. Any suggestions and tips would be greatly appreciated since I have never done this to a LT1 engine before. I hope to have it all hooked up and fired up at least by early next week. Im only gonna work on it a few hours a day so as not to rush anything or run out of daylight. Im also gonna get my shift point bumped up to 6300 rpm as well. The tranny has been holding up superbly with the CC 305 cam and 6000 rpm shift point and I hope it continues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
nest

i guess this is what happens when your car sits for almost a year...i found a damn squirrels nest when i took the home base off and also found 3 wasp/hornets nests...so far. all of them had dead bugs in em and the rodent nest was cotton and nut shells. and to think that i have been driving my car like this for the past few weeks. thats crazy. no surprises mechanically though. will keep posted as i continue.
 

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Check all of your wiring. Rodents love to nipple on wires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
IIRC without any mods to the factory block, I don't think that you would want to take your shift points to 6300, may want to rethink and take them down a notch, but I could be wrong, just something that came to mind.
well everything is going smooth so far. got the TB, WP and alternator all off. I looked at the wires and they should be good to go because I have been driving the car for a few weeks now with no issues and evertyhing works and the car is running great. I will see about the stock block being good for 6300 but from what I was told from LE awhile ago when was shopping for a cam like this, he told me that the optimum shift points for the cam would be 6300. he told me that the block should be fine as long as it doesnt burn oil and if it passes a compression check. LE also told me that if my springs are good to go, which they are, then it should be ok running it to 6300 regardless of the mileage. I feel confident that it will hold up because I have every oil change document at 2500-3000 mile intervals since 2600 miles all the way up to 158,000 miles and the block has 161,000 on it now. we'll see what happens. I wouldnt be mad if it didnt make it it would give me a opprtunity to build me another block the way i want it. we'll see what happens. just wish me luck. the teardown continues...
 

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well everything is going smooth so far. got the TB, WP and alternator all off. I looked at the wires and they should be good to go because I have been driving the car for a few weeks now with no issues and evertyhing works and the car is running great. I will see about the stock block being good for 6300 but from what I was told from LE awhile ago when was shopping for a cam like this, he told me that the optimum shift points for the cam would be 6300. he told me that the block should be fine as long as it doesnt burn oil and if it passes a compression check. LE also told me that if my springs are good to go, which they are, then it should be ok running it to 6300 regardless of the mileage. I feel confident that it will hold up because I have every oil change document at 2500-3000 mile intervals since 2600 miles all the way up to 158,000 miles and the block has 161,000 on it now. we'll see what happens. I wouldnt be mad if it didnt make it it would give me a opprtunity to build me another block the way i want it. we'll see what happens. just wish me luck. the teardown continues...
Well good luck :) Sorry I mispoke, I wasn't really talking in regards to block itself, but more over the peripherals, cam bearings, main bearing, opti and stuff like that, spinning at that RPM with factory bearings on a 161K motor you are likely to spin one. I am with Heavy on the springs and didn't think about that at first. With the difference in the left and all that you are going to find the springs won't work and quite frankly are probably really weak, I know that with 131K on my car with everything documented, doesn't leak a drop or anything like that the springs float like a some bi#ch above 4 grand. I guess you can go off let's say an LT4 cam installation from the factory as it recommended new springs, as well as 1.6 rockers. Just some thoughts, if you are going to rebuild the motor anyway I guess you could say screw it, but I don't know, personally it really isn't that fun putting new parts in a motor to have it blow up on you, not saying that yours would do this, but at the very least with factory rockers, springs, etc. I don't think you will get the potential out of that cam anyway. Again good luck just some thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well good luck :) Sorry I mispoke, I wasn't really talking in regards to block itself, but more over the peripherals, cam bearings, main bearing, opti and stuff like that, spinning at that RPM with factory bearings on a 161K motor you are likely to spin one. I am with Heavy on the springs and didn't think about that at first. With the difference in the left and all that you are going to find the springs won't work and quite frankly are probably really weak, I know that with 131K on my car with everything documented, doesn't leak a drop or anything like that the springs float like a some bi#ch above 4 grand. I guess you can go off let's say an LT4 cam installation from the factory as it recommended new springs, as well as 1.6 rockers. Just some thoughts, if you are going to rebuild the motor anyway I guess you could say screw it, but I don't know, personally it really isn't that fun putting new parts in a motor to have it blow up on you, not saying that yours would do this, but at the very least with factory rockers, springs, etc. I don't think you will get the potential out of that cam anyway. Again good luck just some thoughts.
oh no no no...my bad i guess i didnt mention it. my springs are brand new, never been used and are rated at 137 lbs. my rocker arms are comp pro magnum 1.6 3/8 non-self aligning for the guideplates on the edelbrock heads...the ones that are rebuildable with the lifetime warranty. the pushrods are trickflow, the heads, intake, and tb are all edelbrock. i got em all with the lt4 rpm xtreme kit that i bought last year. the ONLY thing on my block that has those miles is the shortblock and the wiring, etc. all of my ignition is new msd to include the opti, coil, etc. plugs are new ngk tr55 or maybe tr6 i gotta go take a look. im replacing the water pump, installing a new wp seal, replacing a few vacuum lines, and other small stuff. im replacing my lifters with a new set of gm stock ones that i picked up for cheap. im not cutting corners on my top end and im trusting what LE told me about my short block. keeping my fingers crossed for right now.

im done for the day for right now...feel like taking the GSXR for a spin thru atlanta. no surprises other than the rodent nest that i found. i tell you what, its a shame that all i was able to get accomplished today mechanically was removing the wp and alternator because of all of the stupid connectors and vacuum lines and fuel injection crap. this aint hard by no means, just tedious as hell. my goal for tomorrow is to have the intake, and heads off the car and ready for me to clean the surfaces on the block. i will post pics once i figure out how or maybe i can send them to one of you guys and you can post them for me. i took them with this new droid x phone i got. its supposedly a 8 mp camera built into the phone but we'll see how it turns out.
 

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oh no no no...my bad i guess i didnt mention it.
I think you will be alright. Ive got some video files of what my cc503 sounds like if you like.


With my brother in laws help we got all the old stuff off in 1 night. I took much longer putting it all back together, bu then I did heads and cam and valvetrain all at once and had a second pair of eyes!

If I did it again I would pull the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If I did it again I would pull the motor.
im still close enough to where i might just do that. i only have the alternator and water pump removed. i gotta pull the tranny too for the converter swap so i might as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
back to work

ok im back to the car after a 3 day break. i had some family come in from out out town on thursday so i couldnt get to the car. i just got all the hoses and fuel lines and stuff disconnected from the intake manifold. now im gonna be breaking torque on the bolts and i hope i can remember how they go. i wrote their locations on the manifold down so hopefully it works for me during reinstall. after that im gonna tackle the heads. drivers side seems simple but the pass side seems kinda confusing with the bracket bolts and the power steering bolts. anyone wanna chime in on them and how to get the power steer pump and bracket off the pass side head?
 

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if you are pulling the motor, I would, you can leave the accessory bracket on. just disconnect the PS lines and drop AC compressor and use wire/tie wraps to hold it against frame. I also take alternator off as well.

zip lock bags & sharpie will be your friend in keeping all nuts/bolts togeather as you pull things apart....taking pics also helps before you tear everything apart.
 

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ya done yet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ya done yet?
He'll naw im not done yet. I have been doing other things and not focusing on the car fully. I have til the end of the month to finish it before the semester starts so im just taking my time. Im definitely gonna have it tore down by this weekend though so i can clean and reassemble next week. Thanks for the concern tho. Keep checking back as i will update randomly as i get a chance to work on it in between wife, kids, house, and motorcycle
 

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He'll naw im not done yet.....i will update randomly as i get a chance to work on it in between wife, kids, house, and motorcycle
Hear that. Happy wife, happy life. Are you taking pics?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hear that. Happy wife, happy life. Are you taking pics?
yeah i have taken a few pics but i havent encountered any surprises since the rodent nest. all is going as planned. pulled the power steering pump and now im gonna attempt to remove the head with the bracket still attached to the engine. dont think it will work but its worth a try. just dont want to remove the ac compressor, maybe i can move it out of the way?
 

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Are you pulling motor or just heads? If its just heads, get the PS pump outta the way and undo the bolt behind it and the head should be able to come off if i remember right
 
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