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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can the stock Auburn Posi be rebuilt? I'm going to do gears soon and I'm going to have a hard time coming up with the cash for a new Eaton. Is it even worth the effort if it's possible or will it fail quickly? If it is rebuildable where do I get the parts to do it?
 

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Matt - I'm going to be swapping a complete rear into my car shortly and will have my stock SS rear (Auburn, 3.08, disc brakes) up for sale. The Auburn will still spin both 285's I have out back, even on a prepped surface. I'm asuming you're wanting a different ratio, but I can also install your gears in it for a little extra if that appeals. PM me if are interested in any/all of the above.
 

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Hmm. Mine is actually still functional and I'm going to stick with the wagon rear for now so I don't have to mess with different backspacing with my wheels. I think I'm just going to get 4.10's put in with my stock posi for now. Thanks for the offer, though!
 

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Ah thatnks, Joel. That's where I got confused then. So what's the best replacement option in case I decide to splurge? I really dig the gear-type limited slips just because the way they function is so ingenious. Anyone have experience with those?
 

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. If your talking about the Gov-lock gear-type limited slip,
and your planning on big smokie burn outs. I would say stay
away. The Gov-locks tend to HURL parts (cwm8)when
they catch traction hard.
. A clutch type is way more forgiving they just slip if there in
a bind cwm3. :D
 

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Just as a point of clarification, the Auburn posi that came factory installed in GM b-bodies is not rebuildable, but the aftermarket version is.
Not exactly....there ARE "service parts" for Auburn LSD units.

Auburn offers an exchange program for aftermarket units, called D-REX, but they are not capable of being rebuilt, per se--the cone surfaces still wear just like our OE units, and the result is the same--gotta replace the differential case, which only happens by getting a complete new unit. If the defective unit meets D-REX requirements, it's done on an exchange basis.

"We will replace your unit, no matter the reason, within the first 4 years after purchase for the price of a competitor’s clutch pack. Every part you get will be brand new–the unit comes assembled, tested, certified, ready for installation. No more rebuilding and mixing old worn parts with new parts!"
 

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Ah thatnks, Joel. That's where I got confused then. So what's the best replacement option in case I decide to splurge? I really dig the gear-type limited slips just because the way they function is so ingenious. Anyone have experience with those?
FWIW, I had my gears and posi done at the same time and went with 3.73's (stock 2.93 on my sedan.) and an eaton 400# (clutch type) posi. I love it and havent had any problems with it, they're rebuildable if needed and it hooks great. I remember reading when I was thinking of which type or posi to get that clutch type were better for straight line, launching, etc. and the gear type like the torsen t2 were better for auto x, road racing, etc. I can only speak of the eaton unit but I love mine and its worked great for me.
 

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The eaton sandwiches clutches between the backs of the spider gears and the case, and uses springs to load them. You might want to check the cost of a rebuild kit before making your choice. I can't locate one at the moment, but I have heard they are not cheap.
 

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This is one of the best all-around confusion-clarification threads in a long while. This one make it into the Stickie, Joel?
 

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If this thread is "sticky" worthy, suggest you link THIS thread too

I read the "tech story" that was attached, and I see a potential issue--if material is removed to allow the cone(s) to seat "deeper"--this actually unloads the spring pressure further (the 2 side gear/cone assemblies are now further apart, thus less spring pressure) and the axle shaft float/end play is increased. This is not as intended by the manufacturer.
 

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If this thread is "sticky" worthy, suggest you link THIS thread too

I read the "tech story" that was attached, and I see a potential issue--if material is removed to allow the cone(s) to seat "deeper"--this actually unloads the spring pressure further (the 2 side gear/cone assemblies are now further apart, thus less spring pressure) and the axle shaft float/end play is increased. This is not as intended by the manufacturer.
Furthermore, you are changing the mesh pattern and backlash within the spider gears. He is adjusting this 0.005" per side, which in the context of the ring & pinion backlash, is a factor of two increase. I thought this was a neat "fix" until I realize what happens to the gear mesh pattern.
 
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