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Folks,
Okay, so after a LONG wile of doing this, that & the other thing on my Caprice, I've finally gotten everything done, and technically she's ready to be back in daily driver status.

Yesterday, and a few days past, I noticed in the manual temperature gauge (RH Cylinder head sender hole) climbing up to 210°F at a stop light, with the AC on. Ambient air ~ 95°F.

I get home, and check the fans, and both are operating correctly. I check the PCM temperature thru my laptop software, and sure enough it°s 200°+.

Today I pull the thermostat, and check it on the stove in a pot of water. It starts to open @ 160°F, and continues to fully open somewhere around 180°F.

I've got a new gauge, so for the heck of it I'm ready to install. After passing the coolant mixture thru a screened funnel, I'm ready and start pouring into the thermostat opening.

I'm lucky if I can get a half pint, till the coolant reaches the top of the water pump thermostat opening. What the HECK is going on?

I pulled the lower hose going into the water pump, and let that drain and tried again, with the same results.

Does anyone have any idea what to look into next?

Should I pull the pump?

Is there some sort of gigantic air pocket in the block?

Thanks!
 

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Cooling system on LT1 is through the coolant reservoir. Unclear on why you're attempting to fill through the thermostat housing. How will the radiator become filled?
 

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I only fill thru the WP T-Stat opening when I've drained the block and only to fill the block. If the Block was not drained (removing the Knock Sensors), then you are not going to be able to add much through the T-Stat opening. I usually ass Coolant thru the Reservoir to top off the system and then bleed.
 

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Sounds like you have never removed (or even aware of) the knock sensors. Do that and you will probably drain lots of crap. All the above posts are good.
 

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the 210 F in Texas ac on now seems normal to me. now it there is some air in coolant that will cause a higher temp despite the 160 T stat..

the coolant antifreeze whatever you use must be mixed with distilled water .. I and others do drain the block because 50% is still in the engine .

so a total drain of the block/radiator is in my 96 4.25 gallons ..

now what I do after I pull out the drainplugs/knock sensors is put the water hose in the T stat bore on water pump that will flush out any debris .. then the heater hoses at the block area I flush and blow those out. .. I then put it back except the upper radiator hose on the top of the radiator .. with the front end high I pour coolant into the upper radiator hose and it flows into the T stat goose neck then before its too full I connect to radiator .. probably 3 gallons or so.. then fill up the plastic pressure tank start engine until its hot then bleed at goose neck screw.. run engine and then bleed the screw again .. perhaps the next day as well. I do find it may take a few bleed cold /hot cycles to get all the air out..
 

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210 is fine, especially on a hot day with the ac on.
 

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Are your fan turn on - off temps reset. It is pointless to have a 160 stat without re-flashing the PCM. 210 is where it would run with the stock 180 which is what happens with out resetting the fans.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
the 210 F in Texas ac on now seems normal to me. now it there is some air in coolant that will cause a higher temp despite the 160 T stat..
Right, I'm just an anal retentive person by nature and work, and don't like to see the OEM gauge get to over half, or see the aftermarket one above 200°F.

the coolant antifreeze whatever you use must be mixed with distilled water .. I and others do drain the block because 50% is still in the engine .
Right, although to this point, I have never drained the block when doing any cooling service.

so a total drain of the block/radiator is in my 96 4.25 gallons ..

now what I do after I pull out the drainplugs/knock sensors is put the water hose in the T stat bore on water pump that will flush out any debris .. then the heater hoses at the block area I flush and blow those out. .. I then put it back except the upper radiator hose on the top of the radiator .. with the front end high I pour coolant into the upper radiator hose and it flows into the T stat goose neck then before its too full I connect to radiator .. probably 3 gallons or so.. then fill up the plastic pressure tank start engine until its hot then bleed at goose neck screw.. run engine and then bleed the screw again .. perhaps the next day as well. I do find it may take a few bleed cold /hot cycles to get all the air out..
I'll definitely do that next service time, since it's been since the fall of 2009 since I've complete flushed the engine block, and heater core.

210 is fine, especially on a hot day with the ac on.
Yeah like I wrote earlier I'm just an anal retentive person by nature and work, and it's difficult to turn that off.


Sounds like you have never removed (or even aware of) the knock sensors. Do that and you will probably drain lots of crap. All the above posts are good.
No not true at all, when I first bought the vehicle, that was one of the first things on the PM list. I did get quite a bit of sediment out at that time.
 

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Then why were you surprised you could only add 1/2 pint as mentioned in your OP? Not trying to rub it in, just seems hard to understand.
 
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