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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
What follows is the original content of the thread lifted from
http://web.archive.org/web/20070809...ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=000436;p=1
Mostly.

Cheavy said:
Ladies & Gentlemen ... [email protected]$$ PERFORMANCE MODS!

These are the most basic, cost-effective Performance Modifications for well maintained '94-'96 B/D-Cars with L99-4.3Litre, or LT1-5.7Litre V8 engines, based on the collective experiences of the ImpalaSS Forum.
However, most also apply to B/D-cars as old as 1977, and many go even further back than that.

Note: Address the following areas in one Mod/Maintenance session to save time and money, so you can do more mods:

* Steering
* Front Suspension
* Rear Differential
* Transmission
* Upper ValveTrain


[email protected]$$ GM Parts Sources

* Sam Smith: [email protected] Seth: [email protected] 702-798-8504
* Dal Slabaugh: [email protected] 800-362-9494
* Kevin 'k-dub'800-395-1440 no email yet
* Chris McCabe 800-447-2107 no email yet
* Sam Taylor [email protected] 877-726-8295
* Joe Adkins 918-272-1101 no email yet
* www.vintageparts.org


Little Things that Mean a LOT

* Howard Rothstein's WhisperJet Headlight Harness <$200 or
* Gary's HeadLight Harness and Battery Cables $105 and $65 respectively - either will considerably improve stock headlights' performance
* T87 Cornering Lamps $??
* OverDriven Alternator Pulley $???
* 9C1 Downforce WiperWings $20


Braking

* [email protected]$$ Brake Cooling System $???
* PowerStop AR9501 & AR9502 Front 9C1 Rotors $126 Each - Special Order from PowerStop Use discount code PS531001
* 9C1-JA9 Brake Calipers Dal plus
* 9C1-JA9-D614A BrakePads $25 - $100
* TUV/DOT Approved Stainless Steel Brake Lines $100
* ATE Brake Fluid $25 in a can OR Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid & Easier to find in a bottle
* JL9 Rear Disc Brake Proportioning Valve $25
* JL9 Rear Disc Brake Metering Valve Mod !
* ???9C1-JA9 Brake Master Cylinder/Brake Booster??? Dal
* C5 Rear Brake Hardware Upgrade $???


Steering

* OverDriven Alternator + UnderDriven CrankShaft = UnderDriven PowerSteering and AC $???
* Power Performance MotorSports Extreme Duty FrontEnd Rebuild Kit $260
* Borgeson Steering Shaft $250


Handling & Ride

* 9C1 Body-to-Frame Bushings $75
* ZQ8 BumpStops $30
* Springs-to-Axle Bushings Delete !
* Summit Battery Trunk-Relocation Kit $50
* RightRearmost SpareTire Relocation $??
* Springs by B-body Performance $225
* Shock Dampers, by Bilstein or NAPA Gas Magnum or Monroe Severe Service <$300 for 4
* Rear Lower Control Arms, by BMR $160 or True Tech $250
* Front SwayBar, by B-body Performance $205 or H.O. $250 or BMR $150 or NPD $125
* Rear SwayBar, by B-body Performace $205 or H.O. $180
* Tires $50 - $?,???


Cooling System

* Meziere H2Opump $200
* >51% H2O : <49% Ethylene Glycol <$25 - 65% H2O freezes @ 0°F, but cools better than 50/50
* 160°F Thermostat by HyperTech $15 - $20
* 'Cooler' AirDamn $100 - or MIY for a lot less ... every few months
* ThrottleBody Coolant Bypass !
* V03 Electrical Cooling Fans Conversion $??? V08 Mech Fan Delete improves MpG, throttle response, releases at least 10HP & 20LbFt, enables use of superior SSRI3-type intakes for more potential gains


Transmission

* ?KD1 Tranny Cooler Upgrades? $???
* TransGo Shift Kit $100
* TransGo Vacuum Modulator Kit $80
* Torque Converter Cooler Cover $60
NOTE: For maximum value, don't forget to rebuild your tranny, and buy and install a good lockup torque converter, while you're at it.


Ignition

* Stock '96 Coil + Speartech's '96 LT1 Coil Kit or read this thread or this thread $25 + $??


PowerTrain Control Module

* PCM for Less by Bryan Herter $50 - $100 OBD1 ... $175 - $275 OBD2


Upper ValveTrain

* Combination MotorSports CM614/CM613 ValveSpring Kit $100 even ironheads require NO machining!
* Stamped 1.6 Rockers $5 each


Exhaust

* H-Pipe Exhaust CrossOver $50 - X-Pipes work better, but cost more to buy and install
* Turbo Mufflers by Summit $20 Each or Thrush $30 or Dynomax $40 or, 2.25" or 2.50" Straight Pipe $20
* 2.25" or 2.50" TailPipes - your choice of exit- and tip-style $25 - $50
* Check this out ... $215


Intake

* Auxiliary PCV Intake ThrottleBody De-Oiler $10
* PCV Condenser $30
* Drill Holes in your AirBox !
* PoorMan's Cold Air SS Intake Insualtion $10
* SSRI3/RAISS DIY KnockOff <$100 or CIA Intake $190 - $230 or The SSRI3 $300 or The RAISS $225
* MAF Sensor FlowScreen Delete ! - AFTER you've done all the other Intake Mods 1st



If you want or need to replace something that isn't a Performance Mod, it's probably a Maintenance Upgrade. See this topic's last reply.
See, also, Bryan Herter's wise counterpoint; 20th reply.

[ 06-02-2007, 01:38 AM: Message edited by: Cheavy, for the last time]
A great deal of the info here is still relevant, if dated. It never prevented noobs from asking questions that have been answered ad nauseam, so I chalked it up as a failure. To be clear, this post, and my final post in the original thread, were meant to be the framework for an FAQ.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
B-sedans should've 1/4Mile'd 13.49 @ 105.1 off the showroom floor

If you're wondering why a particular mod isn't on the list, here are the reasons I still remember:
1A) You shouldn't do it before you do the rest of the mods on the list, or at least in a given category

The best example would be both an F/Y-Body MAF Sensor, and a 52mm [nevermind a 58mm] throttlebody.

A B-Sedan powered by a 350 Cu In LT1 with 1.6 rockers should not need either an F/Y-body MAF Sensor, or a 52mm throttlebody to 1/4Mile 13.49 @ 105.
(a)Wagons & Fleetwoods weigh more and have more drag area; they might - or might not - need a little more help.
b) in some cases it might seem cheaper to do a Performance Mod, than to fix or do a maintenance upgrade on something, but my point remains.)

If you do anything more drastic to the engine than 1.6 rockers ... headers, cam, heads, more cubes (in order of rising costs of both money and time) ... then

a) the 52mm throttlebody becomes a requirement (wisest and cheapest to have yours re-bored)
b) either get an F/Y-body MAF Sensor, or delete it entirely and switch to Speed Density (may or may not be worth power or torque, but may improve throttle response)

1B) After six years studying posts of the gurus on the old forum, [many of whom no longer communicate with the ISSF,] headers, IMO, were the 'dividing line' mod. I still wouldn't do headers before doing every single mod on that list, and if I was going to do more mods after doing headers, then I'd know I was seriously beginning to lose my mind, having done all the mods on the list and still wanting more. Now that some people are putting $90 headers on their cars, I'm revisiting that opinion personally.

The other considerations for [email protected]$$ Performance Mods [& Maintenance Upgrades] were:

2) there's a mod on the list which is either more cost effective or less dangerous or both - compared to, say, a HyperTech, or a Granatelli/self ported MAF

3) taste cannot be objectively measured by a stopwatch, a speedometer, or an accelerometer (only by money and time spent)

4) Upon underhood inspection by a state trooper, your wife, or those who mod only for appearance's sake (formerly known as 'Riceboys'), you should be able to plausibly deny that any mods have been performed at all, whatsoever

5) GM should've equipped every B&D-car with nearly all of the Performance Mods & Maintenance Upgrades as standard, & the rest should've been either standalone options, or parts of option packages [making #4 even more plausible]

The only exceptions would be
a) 3.42 standard (keep in mind CAFE. Many who say they don't care about MpG with these cars, have a daily driver whose engine displaces a bottle of soda, give or take a can)
b) limited slip differential - maybe standard, maybe optional
c) superior torque converter standard

because none of them are [email protected]$$. They should, however, be done before headers/cam/heads/cubes/forced aspiration/Gen3 or Gen4 engines/etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
& then there were Maintenance Upgrades

If it didn't make a B/D-car go quicker or faster, handle better, or stop sooner, but it was covered by reasons #4 & #5 previously, it was a Maintenance Upgrade. It must've done something measurably better, or I wouldn't've put it on the list.
(By that line of thinking, every Performance Mod was a Maintenance Upgrade; not every Maint. Upgrade was a Perf. Mod.)

Though I doubted it, I hoped I might save a noob some time and money by making this info easier to find. I guess I still do. (Though they aren't compensating me in any way, I hope you all find web.archive.org useful; some of their archived links still work several links deep, so perhaps more of this forum could be rebuilt using it as a resource.)

Let me be clear: I tried my damnedest to learn from the mistakes of people who spent a lot more money on their Impalas SS than necessary, or those who were lucky enough to get their money's worth (much harder than those who refuse to learn from those who were members since 2001, for example). I then thought it selfish not to cull and share that knowledge.

I've forgotten a lot that wasn't in what I once referred to as 'my opus thread', but I THINK I remember enough to be of some help. If I'm wrong, then I hope this thread is enough of a thank you to the gurus of this forum - those who stayed, and those who left. Though I can't afford to do most of the [email protected]$$ PMs & MUs to my wagon today, what I learned from this forum is why I still enjoy my wagon, instead of suffering with it, or giving up on it.
 

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Thanks for reposting this, Cheavy.

I know I've tried to click the sticky multiple times after the crash and was only left in dissapointment at the blank page ahead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Maintenance UpGrades

Cheavy said:
Sooner or later, you'll want or need to replace it. Upgrade it.
Safety, reliability, durability, performance, and personality can all be improved with money you might otherwise spend anyway on 'mere stock replacement' parts and/or accessories.
Don't forget that ignoring maintenance dulls performance.
You may do better by spending more money. You also risk crossing the point of diminishing returns in the process.

Note: Address the following areas in one Mod/Maintenance session to save time and money, so you can do more mods:

* Steering
* Front Suspension
* Rear Differential
* Transmission
* Upper ValveTrain


[email protected]$$ GM Parts Sources

* Sam Smith: [email protected] Seth: [email protected] 702-798-8504
* Dal Slabaugh: [email protected] 800-362-9494
* Kevin 'k-dub'800-395-1440 no email yet
* Chris McCabe 800-447-2107 no email yet
* Sam Taylor [email protected] 877-726-8295
* Joe Adkins 918-272-1101 no email yet
* www.vintageparts.org


Little Things that Mean a LOT

* Howard Rothstein's WhisperJet HeadLight Harness <$200 or
* Gary's HeadLight Harness, and Battery Cables $105 and $65 respectively - either will considerably improve stock headlights' performance
* T87 Cornering Lamps $??
* Osram/Sylvania, Philips, or Wagner HeadLightBulbs $25
* 3496, 3497, 2357, #24, 168, and "OSRAM 2886X" Bulbs $10
* OverDriven Alternator Pulley $???
* [email protected]$$/'Gettho' EuroStyle Cornering Lenses $10
* 9C1 Downforce WiperWings $20
* AC Drip Hose Extension $5
* PassengerSide Upper A-Arm AC Line Cushion $5?
* 6N1 DoorHandle UnLocks & Opens Door $60 per door
* The "WingSpan" Mod !
* Body Side Molding Delete !
* 'Better than 9C1' 60PSI Oil Pressure Sender $30
* Gas Gauge Calibrator $60 ... but read GASSIT#14's warning 1st
* Normand Landry's Replacement PowerSeat Slider Kit $50
* ClutterCatcher Center Console $65, or, The unupholstered version at WalMart $30
* ThInsulate Sound Deadening $6 per Yard
* B48 Sedan/B43 Wagon HeavyDuty Rubber TrunkMat $100 - or make one yourself for less ...
* 16" Skinny SpaceSaver SpareTire with Ten BoltHoles $25
* Brighter Rear Lens Buckets $25 DIY
* White B/D-Sedan Fuel Bib $10


Braking

* [email protected]$$ Brake Cooling System $???
* PowerStop AR9501 & AR9502 Front 9C1 Rotors $126 Each - Special Order from PowerStop Use discount code PS531001
* 9C1-JA9 Calipers Dal plus
* 9C1-JA9-D614A Brake Pads $25 - $100
* TUV/DOT Approved Stainless Steel Brake Lines $100
* ATE Brake Fluid $25 in a Can OR Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid & Easier to find, in a Bottle
* JL9 Rear Disc Brake Proportioning Valve $25
* JL9 Rear Disc Brake Metering Valve Mod !
* ???9C1-JA9 Brake Master Cylinder/Brake Booster??? Dal
* C5 Rear Brake Hardware Upgrade $???


Steering

* Cadillac Fleetwood/Buick RoadMaster Steering Dampener Dal
* OverDriven Alternator + UnderDriven CrankShaft = UnderDriven PowerSteering and AC $???
* Power Performance MotorSports Extreme Duty FrontEnd Rebuild Kit $260
* Borgeson Steering Shaft $250
* Tom Lee Manufacturing Power Steering Upgrade $160


Handling & Ride

* 9C1 Body-to-Frame Bushings $75
* Bill 'Navy Lifer' Harper's Custom Front Suspension Bits Bill
* GM's ACDelco/Dana Spicer Front Suspension Pieces Dal
* ZQ8 BumpStops $30
* Springs-to-Axle Bushings Delete !
* Summit Battery Trunk Relocation Kit $50
* RightRearmost SpareTire Relocation $??
* Springs by B-body Performance $225
* Shock Dampers, by Bilstein or NAPA Gas Magnum or Monroe Severe Service <$300 for 4
* Rear Lower Control Arms, by BMR $160 or True Tech $250
* Front SwayBar, by B-body Performance $205 or H.O. $250 or BMR $150 or NPD $125
* Rear SwayBar, by B-body Performance $205 or H.O. $180
* Tires $50 - $????


Rear Differential

* 3.42 or 3.73 Ring & Pinion & ABS Ring & Master Install Kit <$300
NOTE: Buy and install a good posi, while you're at it. Avoiding a 2nd labor session nearly pays for the posi, neither of which is [email protected]$$.
NOTE: Cars originally equipped with 2.56 will ALSO require the purchase and installation of a Series 3 Carrier, which pushes the parts cost over $300.
NOTE: Choosing 4.10 or 4.56 will ALSO require the purchase and installation of a new driveshaft with a higher critical speed, which, itself, is NOT CHEAP.
* Differential Girdle Reinforcement Cover $175
* New HD AxleShafts $150
* The CORRECT GM Rear End Gasket $10


Cooling System

* Meziere H2Opump $200
* GoodYear SuperHighMiler EPDM Rubber Hoses $90 - used OEM 9C1-1T1 Silicone Hoses are cheaper, and will outlast the rest of the car, IF found in good condition
* F/Y-Body LT1 18 PSI Coolant Reservoir Cap $10
* RMI-25 $20 for 5 Doses!
* >51% H2O : <49% Ethylene Glycol <$25 - 65% H2O freezes @ 0°F, but cools better than 50/50
* Redline WaterWetter $10
* 160°F Thermostat by HyperTech $15 - $20
* 'Cooler' AirDamn $100 - or, make one yourself for a lot less ... every few months
* ThrottleBody Coolant Bypass !
* Normand Landry's FreaseBleeder $15 or Coolant PetCock $5
* V03 Electrical Cooling Fan Conversion $??? V08 Mech Fan Delete improves MpG / throttle response, releases at least 10HP & 20LbFt, and enables use of superior SSRI3-type intakes for more potential gains


Transmission

* ?KD1 Tranny Cooler Upgrades? $???
* TransGo Shift Kit $100
* TransGo Vacuum Modulator Kit $80
* Torque Converter Cooler Cover $60
* CIA DriveShaft SafetyLoop $70
* Manual TC Clutch LockUp $10 - NOT for [email protected]$, Induhviduals, the absent-minded, or [email protected]$$ Torque Converters
NOTE: For maximum value, don't forget to rebuild your tranny, and buy and install a good lockup torque converter, while you're at it.


Ignition

* Magnecor SparkWires $100
* Stock '96 Coil + Speartech's '96 LT1 Coil Kit or read this thread or this thread $25 + $??
* '96 LT4 Corvette Starter by NipponDenso $200


PowerTrain Control Module

* PCM for Less by Bryan Herter $50 - $100 OBD1 ... $175 - $275 OBD2


Fuel Delivery

* Walbro High Pressure 255 Litre/Hour Fuel Pump $110
* Ford MotorSport/SVO Fuel Injectors $225


Upper ValveTrain

* Combination MotorSports CM614/CM613 ValveSpring Kit $100 even ironheads require NO machining!
* Stamped 1.6 Rockers $5 each
* PushRods???


Exhaust - Installation Not Included

* AIRpump Exhaust Manifolds' Plugs $??
* F-Body LT1 6Speed EGR Valve & Solenoid $60
* H-Pipe Exhaust CrossOver $50 - X-Pipes work better, but cost more to buy and install
* Turbo Mufflers from Summit $20 Each or Thrush $30 or Dynomax $40 or, 2.25" Straight Pipe $20
* 2.25" or larger TailPipes - your choice of exit- and tip-style $25 - $50
* Check this out ... $215


Intake

* Unplug AIRpump & Clean MAF Sensor ! - but the CARB EO sticker is at least $7
* L'Eggs PantyHose Prefilter $10 I'm not kidding!
* Auxiliary PCV Breather / Throttle Body De-Oiler $10
* PCV Condenser $30
* Drill Holes in your AirBox !
* PoorMan's Cold Air SS Intake Insualtion $10
* SoccerMom AirFilter $25
* 1stBase ByPass <$75 or SSRI3/RAISS DIY KnockOff <$100 or The SSRI3 $300 or The RAISS $225
* MAF Sensor FlowScreen Delete ! - after you've done all the other Intake Mods 1st


Before you ask, many Frequently Asked Questions and misconceptions have already been addressed by the info in these links ...
The Original ImpalaSS HomePage
The Original IGBA/B-Body.net Archive ... mostly
NAISSO
The HERD
9c1.com
ImpalaSS Magazine Articles
Lazy acceleration? Bad MpG? Is your hood light out? Delete your A.I.R. Pump!

[ 06-02-2007, 01:33 AM: Message edited by: Cheavy, for the last time]
Oldie ... still goodie? This is my thanks to you all.

Oh ... please change the name of the thread to ...
Remember ... [email protected]$$ Perf. Mods & Maint. UpGrades
 

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MODS for the Impala SS baby!lol

I am posting this thread directly onto the sticky so that you know that I have read it...I have finally gotten my car basically back to a great stock 1996 SS besides a torch red paint job, K&N intake, a 2005 tranny, and a stock engine rebuild....I did take the screen out of my MAF sensor but this is it....I would like you guys to feed me like a baby mod by mod until I say thats enough....once I get the first thing you tell me done I will come on tell you exactly how it is riding and if I like or dislike and move to the next...I am going for the most bang for my budget first and move to the higher priced items later... So I guess I am looking to spend about $300 on my first set of low dollar mods.....GO!lol
 
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