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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any body else have this problem? I filled my tank up 3/4 and drove for about two days, when all of a sudden my check engine light came on. I got a little pissed because this car is supposed to be pristine. But then I remembered something I read about gas caps being loose can do this. So I pulled over and checked, it was tight. I figured it cant hurt so I loosened the cap and A-LOT of pressure came out. Re-tightened, got back in the car and the light went out. Go figure.
 

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The gas tank can cavitate when running low on gas. A low fuel light will come on as well. Have your gas cap inspected at an inspection station to see if it needs to replaced. Pull the code for the CEL and see what set it off. Even 15 year old pristine cars can have a check engine light come on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No the tank was 3/4 full. I know that its 15 and I am going to have problems, but I was hoping it would be later rather than sooner. If its not one thing its another with this car, took half a month to get it registered. Hawaii DMV, yea that bad.

But the light went out so I am happy.
 

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without knowing wtf the code was...only guessing. since it went out, great.

might want to pick up a OBD2 code reader. harbor freight has/had them for about $40. makes it way easier to track down what problem you might have if/when CEL comes on...
 

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might want to pick up a OBD2 code reader. harbor freight has/had them for about $40. makes it way easier to track down what problem you might have if/when CEL comes on...
He has a '95, so an OBDII reader is not going to work. You have to have a dedicated OBDI scanner or laptop and cable to read codes for '94 - '95.

Also, I do not believe a bad gas cap will throw a code on an OBDI car. That being said, sounds like either there is some sort of issue with the evaporative emissions control system.
 

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No the tank was 3/4 full. I know that its 15 and I am going to have problems, but I was hoping it would be later rather than sooner. If its not one thing its another with this car, took half a month to get it registered. Hawaii DMV, yea that bad.

But the light went out so I am happy.
It will be back... trust me. Like has been said, get a scanner and see what it is. I'm looking for one myself, the laptop cable and the free software seems like the best deal.

FYI.. Don't was your time trying to get a "free" scan. I've called every part store (AutoZone, Pep Boys, Napa, etc...) and they don't do OBD1. At least not around here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I am trying to buy an Autoxray scanner. I dont have a laptop for the wire kit so Ill just do the scanner for now. When I find out what the code is Ill post it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
EvilCaprice, you were right. It came back on but I did a hard right turn and it went away. Still haven't gotten a scanner yet but I will. I was out bid on that AutoXray.

I have been reading a lot about these scanners, it seems that all they do is the jumper trick but in a pretty package. Couldn't I just use a paper clip since it is OBD1? Seems like only obd2 does all the bells and whistles.
 

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I have been reading a lot about these scanners, it seems that all they do is the jumper trick but in a pretty package. Couldn't I just use a paper clip since it is OBD1? Seems like only obd2 does all the bells and whistles.
The 94-95 cars are OBD1.5, and doing the paper clip method will only net you a solid check engine light, along with engine electrical solenoid tests and both fans running upon key-on.

You get what you pay for in this case, a $39 dollar scanner will most likely be a paper-clip scanner, which is worthless for 94-95's.
 

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The 94-95 cars are OBD1.5, and doing the paper clip method will only net you a solid check engine light, along with engine electrical solenoid tests and both fans running upon key-on.

You get what you pay for in this case, a $39 dollar scanner will most likely be a paper-clip scanner, which is worthless for 94-95's.

Exactly. It a pain for anyone with a 94-95 to be able to scan there cars. Unless they have an extra $250 to blow. My mechanic won't even do it for less than $65.
 

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