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Sooo. One day impala wouldnt start. So I decide to tighten battery cables down and add some battery grease. Boom started up. But now my CHECK GAGE LIGHT STAYS ON.Since then I havent really messed with it. But I got a service engine light later down the road. Bought a code reader hooked it up. Doesnt attempted to read. All it does is click in the engine compartment sounds like it's coming from starter. Each time it clicks, it flashes the CHECK GAGE LIGHT. Take code reader out..STOPS CLICKING. NEW BATTERY NEW ALTERNATOR. BUT BATTERY IS SO LOW VOLT WISE AROUND 9. Could it be bad battery cables or bad connection?? Hopefully I explained this well enough to get some help or ideas on what the problem could be. PLEASE HELP. SINCERELY FEED UP IMPALA OWNER
 

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9v from a 12v battery: dead battery. Charge the battery completely and load test it.

 

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The one time I got check gage, the gauges looked fine. But on close looking, i saw that the volt gage did not jump up once it started. So it was the alternator and it fixed it. Once you charge your battery, observe the volts gage when it starts. Could have gotten a bad alt even though it's new or missed connecting a wire back. Never looked at the check gage logic to see what else trips it.
 

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Never looked at the check gage logic to see what else trips it.
Low oil pressure, high coolant temperature, and low voltage.

The alternator and battery circuit is about the same as for any of the internal regulator/idiot light ones.
Check all battery grounds, battery to alternator, and battery to underhood fuse box wires. The 1994 alternator is fused off the #8 fuse.

The clicking may not be the starter but other electronics under the dash having a fit as the system goes over and under minimum voltage.

Get the battery charged ASAP and see if the car starts. No use chasing the alternator untill the battery and car work together. If you can not spend time with the car disconnect the battery. Discharged batteries left alone lead to bad batteries.
 

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Low oil pressure, high coolant temperature, and low voltage.

The alternator and battery circuit is about the same as for any of the internal regulator/idiot light ones.
Check all battery grounds, battery to alternator, and battery to underhood fuse box wires. The 1994 alternator is fused off the #8 fuse.

The clicking may not be the starter but other electronics under the dash having a fit as the system goes over and under minimum voltage.

Get the battery charged ASAP and see if the car starts. No use chasing the alternator untill the battery and car work together. If you can not spend time with the car disconnect the battery. Discharged batteries left alone lead to bad batteries.
Battery is fully charged. Check gage still on alternator is fine as well. I really believe it's a battery cable or I'm hoping it is. Gonna replace one from starter and battery later today and see. Battery seems to get super low once I turn on ac or the heat
 

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With ac. Also the wires accidentally got cut that run to the oil pan sensor the sensor showing if oil is high or low. Plan on fixing that on a later date. But it has been that for awhile. Dont think it has anything to do with the problems I mentioned in the first post. Thanks for your input. Really trying to get the kinks out of this impala Julio
 

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The FSM also states low fuel will turn on the check gauge light. I expect it is a misprint as the same chip connects to the Low Fuel light. I have not let my fuel get that low. I would put a volt meter on the battery. On any day that I had the A/C, and headlights on or in my case rear defroster and headlights on I would expect the needle to dip a bit. As the gauge cluster's volt meters seem to vary from car to car I can not say you have a problem.

Any good shop could do a volt and amp check in about 15 minutes or less. I have the gauges but my local battery shop does a check for free.

A shop with a good meter can test the big cables by comparing the voltage at both ends. During cranking for the starter cable and under full electrical load for the alternator and battery cables. Under full electrical load bad cables will have lower voltages from end to end.
 

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Where are you located? It might be best if you can find someone local who's good with these cars.
 

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To be clear the check gauge light is controlled by a chip on the cluster. It is there to draw your attention to the gauges. A scanner may not be the best tool/approach to solving this issue as a scanner does not connect to any of the sensors the gauges use.

Things like the low oil, low coolant, and the check engine(MIL) light are controlled by the PCM.

If your battery and alternator check out as working you might have a problem with the cluster. A shade tree mechanic load test is turn on the A/C, set the heater fan to high, turn on the headlights, and rear defroster if you have it. The voltage as measured at the battery with a hand held volt meter should be higher than a voltage reading from before you started the car and turned things on. When you turn off all the electrical loads the voltage usually goes up a bit.

When the temperature is below freezing a voltage regulator will supply a higher voltage than a hot engine bay in the summer. This is why a clamp on amp meter is the better tool to check a alternator/battery problem. It shows if the alternator can handle the electrical loads and charge the battery.

It would help if we knew if this is a "garage queen" or daily driver. It can take a longer drive to recharge a battery that sits for weeks or months and the volt meter will read lower during this time. I would not leave a b body battery alone for more than a month. If you have aftermarket accessories like a remote starter or car alarm your battery needs extra care if you do not drive it daily.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
CHECK GAGE LIGHT STAYS ON. REPLACED BOTH BATTERY CABLES. BATTERY IS FULLY CHARGED, ALTERNATOR IS FINE, REPLACED FUEL PUMP AND LEVEL SENDING UNIT, REPLACED COOLANT TEMP SENSOR, LOW OIL LEVEL CONNECTOR WAS CUT IN HALF. REPLACED THAT AS WELL. WHAT COULD BE THE ISSUE FOR THIS LIGHT TO STAY ON CONSTANTLY?? HELPPPP!!!!!
 

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Not sure why you started a new thread to hide previous information.


Please explain if you have used a hand held voltmeter to test voltage?

What have you done that makes you think the "ALTERNATOR IS FINE"?

Low oil pressure, high coolant temperature, and low voltage.
The FSM also states low fuel will turn on the check gauge light. I expect it is a misprint
If your gas gauge was reading above 1/4, your oil gauge was OK, you were not overheating and the temperature gauge was not showing a over temperature. I do not know why you would change all those parts.

I would have first checked that the brown wire A10 of C! is getting the correct voltage ie above 10 volts

To me anyway the FSM is not clear what powers the check gauge chip. I would check all +(positive) inputs to the cluster.Ignition, battery voltmeter input ect. I would also check the several grounds (-) to the cluster.

The check gauge chip is unhappy figuring out why may be difficult and will require some multmeter work.

I believe this is the chip.
GaugeCheck.png
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I replace these things in the past. Not recently. The alternator tested out fine. I plan on replacing just to be sure since it has a lifetime warranty it wouldnt hurt.
 

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And no I haven't tested anything with voltage meter. Was trying to solve issues without taking out cluster. But looks like I might have too. Thanks for your helpom
 
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