I assumed you were talking about the S10 converter, since that's the one that has been documented so many times.
Clear image exhaust
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Trailblazer I6 converter is a popular one in the truck world
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There are four models available for the 298mm converters that I know about; one stalling around 1200rpm for diesels, "1397 rpm" that they put behind LT1s, a ~1600rpm one, and the 2000rpm "S10" converter. I put the 1600rpm one in my Impala. With a stock motor and 3.08s, it's a little softer than stock at part throttle (enough to feel), but once you get RPMs up it pulls a bit harder. If you raise your rear gear ratio, the looser converters will feel tighter.
If you notice, 2600rpm is about the highest stall speed a 12" converter will be rated for. It'll feel pretty sloppy at part throttle (almost like a third gear start), so it's really a poor racer's tool. 2800rpm is about the lowest a 10" (or 9.5", same thing in my opinion) converter will be rated for; that'll be on the tightest end of the 10" spectrum.
Spending good money on a good torque converter is well worth it.
Don’t know the difference so I am no help here. TB stall is a cheap upgrade in the truck world.
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5,523 Posts
FWIW , I dont think a convertor is the place to save money.
One thing also,
Convertor to pump engagement is critical , more so at higher line pressures
The old rule of thumb is to push the convertor full back and then determine the appropriate presision washer to use, if needed ,to bring the clearance down .
Where you can run afoul is when the convertor register in the crank has an over generous chamfer and some convertors the snout is the same.
My Edge, the snout would come right out of the crank when it was fully bottomed in the pump.
I was assured this was because the pump drive slots were cut deeper in the Edge.
Careful measurements and calculations showed this to be complete ,,,,,, well , untrue.
End result, I had to split the difference between full pump engagement and adequate crank engagement.
Never caused issue but also never sat right with me.
One thing also,
Convertor to pump engagement is critical , more so at higher line pressures
The old rule of thumb is to push the convertor full back and then determine the appropriate presision washer to use, if needed ,to bring the clearance down .
Where you can run afoul is when the convertor register in the crank has an over generous chamfer and some convertors the snout is the same.
My Edge, the snout would come right out of the crank when it was fully bottomed in the pump.
I was assured this was because the pump drive slots were cut deeper in the Edge.
Careful measurements and calculations showed this to be complete ,,,,,, well , untrue.
End result, I had to split the difference between full pump engagement and adequate crank engagement.
Never caused issue but also never sat right with me.
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8,077 Posts
Certainly agree with converter is one of the worst things to "cheap out" on.
Starting with the labor is the same ,and not like swapping out an alternator .
Poorer performance ,gas mileage ,and likely more heat to fluid.
Probably more difficult for tuner to compansate for as well.
I love my 3000 stall 9.5" Vigilante. Worth every dime IMO.
Can't even tell a higher stall converter is installed until you mash the gas.
Starting with the labor is the same ,and not like swapping out an alternator .
Poorer performance ,gas mileage ,and likely more heat to fluid.
Probably more difficult for tuner to compansate for as well.
I love my 3000 stall 9.5" Vigilante. Worth every dime IMO.
Can't even tell a higher stall converter is installed until you mash the gas.
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3,112 Posts
Words to live by.
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190 Posts
Hi guys just wanted to clarify Dan was quoting me $1000 for blemished quad 1 long tubes. Sorry I did not mention that I wasnt too concerned but I should have clarified those do not go for that price. I looked at spintech cat back exhaust and boy they're pricey just for starting out basic. I’ll stick with Clear Image Automotive, Dan has been a tremendous help to me figuring out whats best and thats his Gen 2 Tri-y headers. I can not wait to order them eventually and hook them up.
My 100% stock 96 Impala SS cruised at 2000 RPM at 74MPH.
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105 Posts
Hmm. My Caprice with 3.42s cruises 75 @ 2500. Both the 700R4 and 6L90 have about the same top gear ratio.
I never thought splitting the difference was a bad thing for some people. 3.73's are great but when you get used to driving late models as daily drivers doing like 1800 RPM at 75 the 3.73's might not be too comfortable, especially when running short tires like most 25.7" stuff we run.
I wish I had went 3.42's in mine just for a little bit of a drop on the highway, especially now that I went with an 80E but still felt this way with the 60e. . Yea, it's only a tiny bit difference, but the acceleration difference is equally as slight. 3.42's are still a huge jump over 3.08 and will get you MOST those benefits. To each his own I guess, for my car I think it makes more than enough power to not need 3.73's, probably would have been better with 3.23s honestly anywhere other than on a prepped track on a slick where I can actually benefit from the steeper gear and the 3.73's would put me in a better RPM range crossing the traps.
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3,112 Posts
3.73 in 4th Gear with 25.7" tires = 65.8MpH @ 2250RpM
3.42 in 4th Gear with 25.7" tires = 71.8MpH @ 2250RpM
3.73 in 4th Gear with 28.9" tires = 74.1MpH @ 2250RpM
3.42 in 4th Gear with 28.9" tires = 80.8MpH @ 2250RpM
To paraphrase my Questionnaire:
If it's your daily driver, or your only car
If you drive hundreds of mostly flat highway miles a week
If you don't race competitively
If you don't want to upgrade the driveshaft or the torque converter or the valvetrain
then you'll likely prefer 3.42 and will not NEED 3.73.
Had a wagon, very close to OE except for 3.42, for about 2 years. BEST MOD EVER.
Having driven several 2.56 2.93 & 3.08 B-cars, 3.42 should've been OE, in spite of CAFE MpG tests.
Had a 9C1-LT1, very close to OE except for 3.73, for about 2 years.
The more highway miles I drove, the more I preferred 3.42.
Luckily I didn't need to upgrade the driveshaft.
3.42 in 4th Gear with 25.7" tires = 71.8MpH @ 2250RpM
3.73 in 4th Gear with 28.9" tires = 74.1MpH @ 2250RpM
3.42 in 4th Gear with 28.9" tires = 80.8MpH @ 2250RpM
To paraphrase my Questionnaire:
If it's your daily driver, or your only car
If you drive hundreds of mostly flat highway miles a week
If you don't race competitively
If you don't want to upgrade the driveshaft or the torque converter or the valvetrain
then you'll likely prefer 3.42 and will not NEED 3.73.
Had a wagon, very close to OE except for 3.42, for about 2 years. BEST MOD EVER.
Having driven several 2.56 2.93 & 3.08 B-cars, 3.42 should've been OE, in spite of CAFE MpG tests.
Had a 9C1-LT1, very close to OE except for 3.73, for about 2 years.
The more highway miles I drove, the more I preferred 3.42.
Luckily I didn't need to upgrade the driveshaft.
Having run 3:08, 3:42 and 3:73 when I did have a 60E....hands down 3:42 was a WAY better all-around gear.
ON TC I put in a 9.5" Vig 2600 stall. Absolutely hated it and saw a minimal improvement at track with it. Pulled it within a month and put in a 2200 stall standard size TC. That with the 3:42 made for one sweet cruiser with a little more pick-up than 3:08 and stock stall.
Everyone has their preference, that was mine with the 60E.....now the best is the T56 with 4:10's. 6th at 80mph I am 19xx RPM running the stock 27" tire.
ON TC I put in a 9.5" Vig 2600 stall. Absolutely hated it and saw a minimal improvement at track with it. Pulled it within a month and put in a 2200 stall standard size TC. That with the 3:42 made for one sweet cruiser with a little more pick-up than 3:08 and stock stall.
Everyone has their preference, that was mine with the 60E.....now the best is the T56 with 4:10's. 6th at 80mph I am 19xx RPM running the stock 27" tire.
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5,523 Posts
Personal preference , different calibrations , don't know ,,,,
My Vig 2600 findings with 3.73 then 4.10 were the exact opposite. That said ,I sent hours and hours tinkering with lock- unlock points , removed release with rapid throttle close. Disabled the unlock with brake application, among other things.
" to each their own "
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3,575 Posts
Daily driver, not much (if any) highway use, car will never be raced, set of 3.73s waiting to go in. Possible driveshaft issues are not a concern because the company I work for builds them.
Do I need them? Nope. Just wanted them. Will I regret it? I highly doubt it but only time will tell. Perfect world they would make a 3.55 gear for this damn rear end. Had them in my 69 Camaro and 85 F250. Love that gear ratio and that was with 3 speeds.
Do I need them? Nope. Just wanted them. Will I regret it? I highly doubt it but only time will tell. Perfect world they would make a 3.55 gear for this damn rear end. Had them in my 69 Camaro and 85 F250. Love that gear ratio and that was with 3 speeds.
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