[Guest]

I've got a clunk in the left front when there's an abrupt weight shift since I did the springs... The springs are seated correctly and everything seems to be tight. We didn't break down the ball joints, we went the LCA bushing route... It happens if I hit the brakes hard (at any speeds), or even pulling into my driveway at slow speeds... Nothing seems to be loose though... And yes, I reused the upper and lower spring isolators (rubber bootie for the end of the springs)... And it doesn't happen all the time, just occaisionally...

Any ideas what it could be? What should I look for?

 

[Guest]

Bill, I've got the same damn clunk on the RM sedan after I did the springs last fall. Left side too. The only time I hear it is at slow speeds, or going from forward to reverse (and vice-versa) first time I hit the brakes. After the first brake application - then nothing. I've looked all over it and seen nothing amiss. Weird.

Mark

 

[Guest]

Ya know... Now that you mention it, I think it only does it once, and then the rest of the ride, it's fine on mine too.... Hmmm... What the hell could it be????

 

[Guest]

I'm curious too... I've got the same clunk on the same side after swapping springs too... I did tighten up the swaybar endlink and it went away for about 2 weeks then it came back! I've got new balljoints so I dont think it's that.... Someone... HELP!

 

[Guest]

After my new suspension was installed, I occasionally hear that sound, but I think mine comes from the rear. I just assume that the new springs are "settling in." And if for some reason a spring comes loose, shoots out of the car, and flips it over

, I didn't install them so it's not my fault!!

Seriously, though, I don't think it's anything major to worry about.

 

[Guest]

I have the same "clunk" coming from the left front. It usually happens as soon as I let off the brake when I'm sitting at a stop. Visually everything looks fine. Hopefully someone will chime in and shed some light on this, it seems that more than a few poeple have this same issue.

 

[Guest]

Yep, me also...
Changed springs, left side, clunk

Not all the time, only on occasion.
Could so many have done something wrong...not likely

 

[Guest]

OK... so now we have a bunch o' guys with the same problem after a spring swap... Does anybody know what it could be????

 

[Guest]

Recheck your balljoint torques, as well as lube the steering stops.

That said.....my car will OCCASIONALLY do it as well

 

[Guest]

Hmm, I did my front suspension with PST stuff and I don't think I have the clunk. On the other hand, my driver's side spring is incorrectly mounted, causing higher ride height. I still think I'd rather do the ball joint method based on the fact that the CA bushings were a HUGE PITA to align withOUT the spring in there.

 

[Guest]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Kevin Moore:
Hmm, I did my front suspension with PST stuff and I don't think I have the clunk. On the other hand, my driver's side spring is incorrectly mounted, causing higher ride height. I still think I'd rather do the ball joint method based on the fact that the CA bushings were a HUGE PITA to align withOUT the spring in there.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Be prepared to put in new ball joints then. Every time I've done something that required the ball joint to be separated I've had to destroy on in the process to get it undone. The control arm methods is much easier. Just takes patience and technique to get the arms realigned. I've done it on 4 different B-Bodies (multiple times on a couple) and have pretty much got it down to a science. Just takes patience, a couple of jacks, and BFH.

 

[Guest]

Update here :

While installing the HAL shocks today, I rechecked my upper and lower balljoint torques (55 ft-lbs upper, 75 ft-lbs lower).

The uppers were tight on both sides. Left lower was fine, but right lower (which is where it sounded like the noise was coming from) was LOOSE by about 1/2 turn or so ! Re-torqued it to spec, and threw a new cotter pin in there.

The clunk is ALMOST entirely gone.....still very faint in one spot, but MUCH better than before!

So, retorque the balljoints.....

 

[Guest]

Ed I hesitate to mention this because I am sure someone of your skill checked this, but for general information:
be sure to check that the ball stud is tight in the steering knuckle. A loose ball stud nut will allow the knuckle hole to wear which loosens the nut more and it is all downhill from there.
PS: I learned this the hard way.

 

[Guest]

It "seems" tight, but I'm definitely keeping an eye on it. Since I have heavily modified knuckles (TCE brakes) this would be an issue if it does destroy the knuckle.

And yes, this is something I checked....

If it comes loose again (with cotter pin in there), then I know it's time to start finding another knuckle

 

[Guest]

Most of your guys clunks are probably not related to the ball joints. It is such a stupid fix that you won't believe it. Get you car in to get alligned at a reputable shop. When I did my eibachs last year, shortly after the install and allignment, the shims fell out of the passenger side and created a clunk that sounded just like what you are describing. I bet the clunks go away after a good allignment.

 

[Guest]

The shims are there and tight. Because I personally made SURE they were tight with my own wrench

I've had the alignment shim clunk before....this one is different. The alignment shim clunk, you can feel the car "rise up" when you apply the brakes and the weight shifts on the upper A-arm.

 

[Guest]

I have another possiblity for the clunk here. I was talking to a mechanic today and explained the situation. He asked if when I tightened the LCA bolts, was the arm hanging, or was the suspension at normal ride height? I told him the car was in the air and the arms were hanging. He said that if we tighten the LCA bolts when the arms are unloaded, this could cause the problem. Because the bushings are being held tight by the torque of the bolts, but at normal ride height, the inside and outside of the bushing may "pop" into place and cause the clunk we are experiencing...

The fix? Put the car up on ramps so you can get under it at it's normal ride height. Loosen the LCA bolts. Cycle the suspension a bit to get the bushings to settle. Then retighten. Pretty easy way to rule it out!!! I'm gonna do that this weekend!!!!

HTH!

 

[Guest]

WTF, I have the same problem, I have had the Intrax springs on my car but put some cut stockers in, but they were too low so I had to go back with the Intrax. When I put the lower back in I noticed that the lower control arm bushings weren't in the best of shape. I was going to take it all back apart and put it back together but haven't yet. That sounds like that could be the prob toomanytoyz. I will check that tomorrow and get back with you guys.

Oh yea toomanytoyz how old are you? I just seen your updated sig and your car is looking good. The pic with you standing there leads me to believe your a younger guy. I have seen those Cadies and I like them pretty good. The guy with the white one and the cottington wheels is on fire. I want to see some one with a black one fixed up with all the chrome pealed off and a set of wheels. Oh yea I didn't reply when you posted the V8 thing you put on the side but that is on time. Looking good and keep it up bro.
Kevin

 

[Guest]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by super10:
Oh yea toomanytoyz how old are you? I just seen your updated sig and your car is looking good. The pic with you standing there leads me to believe your a younger guy. I have seen those Cadies and I like them pretty good. Oh yea I didn't reply when you posted the V8 thing you put on the side but that is on time. Looking good and keep it up bro.
Kevin<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks for the kind words... And I'm 25. So much for an old man's car!!!!

 

[Guest]

Well to all you guys with the "Clunk" noise, I have found the prob. I tried what Toomanytoyz siad, what ever his name is, and drove the car down the road. At first it still did it but after a few miles it is all but gone. I think that the problem is the lower control arm bushings. The right side of the control arm looked good but the left is not in the best of shape, The metal pin that goes through the bushing is about the same wideness as the bushing it's self and if that out side rubber gets worn then you get the noise if the lower is not tightened at ride heighth. It only does it when the lower has to compress the spring moveing that bushing. Well that's the prob from my shop any ways.
Kevin