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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was curious to know who is running the CC503 cam, and what other mods you did to support it other than the typical gears and such. More looking towards what valve train components you went with. Also, as stated in the Cam Shaft Selection guide thread, I noticed that it said that this cam could be run with stock heads. How many of you are running it with stock heads? Thanks!
 

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Stock 374s, 7/16 ARP studs, pushrod guides, hardened pushrods, Harland Sharp 1.6 rockers, K800 springs. You can get away without the upgraded studs, pushrods, guides if you went with self aligning rockers, but I wanted the high RPM stability.

It plays well with 4.10s and a 6 speed. All b-bodies need a 2800 stall and 3.42+ gears if you ask me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. I am planning on having it backed by a T56 and 4.10s.
 

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Sorry wasn't clear. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-200-7202/overview/make/chevrolet

Used these rocker arm studs. It will depend on which rocker you choose to run if you need 3/8" or 7/16".

I would also recommend using ARP cylinder head bolts if removing the heads. The stock cylinder head bolts are torque to yeild, meaning they only give an accurate torque rating once, as they stretch. You CAN reuse, but be very careful to put them back in the exact spot they came from. I think it is worth another bill for piece of mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't plan on removing the heads unless I get Z heads, but I doubt I will do that. Thanks a ton for the input man!
 

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I don't plan on removing the heads unless I get Z heads, but I doubt I will do that. Thanks a ton for the input man!
Guess I forgot one other detail (man I stink at this). If you have iron heads, the studs are press in and can back out if they are not machined for screw in studs. So the heads will need to come off for that. This is why I used aluminum heads, so no machining is needed, just remove old stud, install new ones with guides.

It can still be accomplished on stock heads, but you will need heads done if you step up the cam + rockers. More info... http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=259647&page=2
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah, I got schooled about that on LTx Tech. I will probably try to find some Z heads somewhere in a junkyard and freshen them up. Thanks for the HALP! :D
 

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I've been running this cam on LT1 alum heads with Comp Pro Magnum 1:6 rockers, COMP 987 springs, Comp Chromoly pushrods, Crane OEM replacement lifters, Comp steel retainers, ARM screw-in studs. This combo works great.

I agree on screw-in studs, even if iron heads.

The 503 is a good cam for a 350/355. In my 383 it is too small, so I am stepping up to an AI grind. If I had a 350 I would love this cam.
 

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I've been running this cam on LT1 alum heads with Comp Pro Magnum 1:6 rockers, COMP 987 springs, Comp Chromoly pushrods, Crane OEM replacement lifters, Comp steel retainers, ARM screw-in studs. This combo works great.

I agree on screw-in studs, even if iron heads.

The 503 is a good cam for a 350/355. In my 383 it is too small, so I am stepping up to an AI grind. If I had a 350 I would love this cam.
503 too small in a 383? Check the sig. You just need all the right components.
 

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503 too small in a 383? Check the sig.

You just need all the right components.
Agreed!

.....The 503 is a good cam for a 350/355. In my 383 it is too small....
You're better served tying cam specs to the engine's static compression ratio than you are tying cam specs to the engine's cubic inch displacement........

KW
 

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My '94 SS has been running the 07-305-8 under the iron heads since 2000. Heads were bowl ported, 2.02/1.60 installed, runners blended and matched, screwed studs, spring seats and guides cut, stock plenum ported and matched, etc. It's been very manageable on the street with only a wee bit of lope and panting under 850 RPM. The RPM range has been extended nicely and torque is apparent a lot higher in the range.

As advised above, screwed studs are all but a necessity with even a mild cam and decent springs since the stock studs CAN pull. Screwed studs CAN be installed in-situ if caution is exercised, but the intake must be removed in order to capture chips falling from the through-holes. At that point, with only another handful of bolts the heads are off, and real work can be done.

If you're stuck on not pulling the heads, the stock studs can also be pinned for a little more safety without pulling heads.
 

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How good is this cam with le2 heads????
Look at Post #11 above. He's running the equivalent of LE2 heads.
If the motor is built correctly, LE2 heads and a CC503 should make around 400 rwhp through an auto. If you have the right TC, gearing, suspension, and tires, 11 sec ET's should be a snap.
 
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