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Hey guys, I've been smelling coolant for a couple weeks now and just tonight leaving work I remote started my car, and walking up to it I noticed a puddle under the passenger side. Walked around and got down on the ground to check it out and coolant was actually pouring down the frame onto the ground. I traced it back to the port coming out of the firewall below and to the left of the heater core barbs. Does this mean my heatercore is bad? If it is that really blows because its less than 2 years old...

Also, I thought if it was the heatercore leaking it would leak into the car, but the passenger inside is dry.
 

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Blah, had a feeling but hoping it wasn't that, like I said its less than 2 years old. :mad: It was an Advance or Autozone core so it figures. Is there a better option for a replacement? I'm still confused on how it comes out of that drain instead of in the car, where do they normally leak from?
 

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There is a tube that collects the AC condensate (water) and drains it outside. The coolant is simply taking the same path (it's designed to do that ... if you are lucky). Be glad ... once the coolant gets in your carpet, you will smell it for 50 years.

Pull your hoses off the core and loop them back temporarily till you fix it ... don't let it get worse.

AC Delco fits perfectly. Seems solid.
 

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If your heater core is copper/brass, you can leak check it for holes, and solder it with some plumber's solder, rosin flux, and a propane torch. Just check it again before your reinstall it to make sure you got the leak, and did not create a new one. I did this to mine, and it has not leaked since.

This is old school, and we did it to radiators when they were made from copper/brass.
 

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Best way to stop this from happening is to use a coolant that has an additives pack designed to protect brass/copper and high lead/low lead solder. Most coolant do little to protect these metals. Look for a coolant that contains molybdate.

If you like to run straight water, expect to do this again in short order.
 

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Best way to stop this from happening is to use a coolant that has an additives pack designed to protect brass/copper and high lead/low lead solder. Most coolant do little to protect these metals. Look for a coolant that contains molybdate.



If you like to run straight water, expect to do this again in short order.

Any coolant you recommend in particular? I have a new BeCool aluminum radiator. I put in a new heater core, all new hoses, even a new overflow reservoir, new engine...

Point is, I can go in any direction with no compatibility issues. I bought a few gallons of BeCool coolant, because they double the warranty on the radiator if you use it.

Any advice appreciated, thanks.
 

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Double warranty is a good thing. Let me check out their additive pack and see what it actually is. I'd expect a company that deals almost exclusively with old muscle cars and trucks to have a very comprehensive pack. Get back to you in a bit.
 

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Double warranty is a good thing. Let me check out their additive pack and see what it actually is. I'd expect a company that deals almost exclusively with old muscle cars and trucks to have a very comprehensive pack. Get back to you in a bit.

I found this from your earlier thread, I think in response to the same question. If your description above applies to BeCool, sorry about the duplicate question.

In any case, I'll check out the Rotella. I had a fishing boat with a GM 871, and Rotella was the only oil I would use. Not just me, but most of the fleet.

Thanks again
 

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Ok, it's a heavy duty rated extended life propylene glycol antifreeze with appropriate cavitation, and corrosion inhibitors to protect all metals. It's expensive as all getup, but it's golden.

Rotella ELC is one of the best coolants I've ever used, but if you already have the Becool, run it and enjoy the double warranty.
 

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Thanks very much for the advice.
 
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