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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
can someone take a picture or give really good detailed info on where the coolant temp sensor is? i need to find mine and replace it but before doing so i need to find out if its a 1 pin or 2 pin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
not that sensor that one controls the fans i need the other sensor that controls the gauge
 

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The one that goes to the gauge cluster is in the passenger side head between cylinders 6 and 8. However if you are looking to replace it because your gauge cluster is reading COLD all the time, then its probably not the sender. The gauge in the cluster is know to go bad. I've had it go bad in at least 2 of my cars. I first thought it was the sender but after replacing it, the gauge still did not work. However when I switched to the Camaro Z28 gauge cluster the temperature read properly. - Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
my cars radiator bust so it was overheating for a really long time cuz it had no water nor antifreeze so it was reading correctly until it like completely shut off like 20 mins or so i figured the sender/sensor got extremely hot for too long
 

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This pic is for an Fbody, but you can apply it to the Bbody if you look at it as if it's a pic of the RH cylinder head from below the starter, and in place of #1 spark plug, it would be the #8 spark plug. It's a one-wire sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This pic is for an Fbody, but you can apply it to the Bbody if you look at it as if it's a pic of the RH cylinder head from below the starter, and in place of #1 spark plug, it would be the #8 spark plug. It's a one-wire sensor.
thanks a lot bro im going to take a look at mine tomorrow. i looked up the part number and i head u can use the 2 pin as 1 pin connector. im trying to save $ and use my ebay bucks lol.
 

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my cars radiator bust so it was overheating for a really long time cuz it had no water nor antifreeze so it was reading correctly until it like completely shut off like 20 mins or so i figured the sender/sensor got extremely hot for too long
Your intake radiator side tank is probably cracked (the driver side). Check the upper ribs at the plastic tank on the outer side (the side opposite to the radiator hose).
 

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maybe if you didnt triple post tis and used some basic gramer n enlish n stuff like puctuation so u dont run on then u might get some good answers.

Sorry, but OMFG!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
maybe if you didnt triple post tis and used some basic gramer n enlish n stuff like puctuation so u dont run on then u might get some good answers.

Sorry, but OMFG!
dude stfu and kill yourself. You're annoying as f***
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Your intake radiator side tank is probably cracked (the driver side). Check the upper ribs at the plastic tank on the outer side (the side opposite to the radiator hose).
nah my fan came loose and cut a whole into the radiator fins so it eventually bust and all coolant/water came straight out.

i have already swapped the radiator. Now im just trying to get my gauge to work because i can overheat and wont notice until i see smoke
 

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nah my fan came loose and cut a whole into the radiator fins so it eventually bust and all coolant/water came straight out.

i have already swapped the radiator. Now im just trying to get my gauge to work because i can overheat and wont notice until i see smoke

if you put a new radiator in, you need to bleed the system, then it won't overheat, unless you have other problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
if you put a new radiator in, you need to bleed the system, then it won't overheat, unless you have other problems.
I know I need to do a proper flush and bleed but I still need to get my temp gauge working
 

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Also the location of the gauge temperature sender is different in the 94-96 B-Body than it is in the 93-97 F-body. The F-body is in the drivers side head between cylinders 1 and 3 but as I said above the location on our cars is in the passenger side head between cylinders 6 and 8. Also as I said above it is probably not the sender that is the problem, rather its the gauge in the dash that is at fault. In past car I owned I replaced the sender in the cylinder head and it did not fix the issue. When I replaced the stock cluster with the Z28 cluster(also with a properly working stock cluster) it read the temperature normally, or at least as close as the gauge will allow. Could also be an issue with the wiring or the sender, but most of the time when I've seen the gauge read dead cold unless it starts to overheat then it starts creeping up, it has been the physical gauge itself. - Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
well im going to temporarily swap sensors from another 9c1 or something swapping the cluster isnt an option as i have the digital that reads out my mileage. so its either the sender or wires? the gauge moves when you turn it on so im sure its getting power
 

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dude stfu and kill yourself. You're annoying as f***
No dude, you are the annoying one. My point is that if you took the time to post your "urgent" problem in a thoughtful way and in the correct section (once), then you might get some more insightful help. And in case you didn't know it, there are rules about multi posting as you have done here, so "dude" why don't you STFU and stop assing up this Forum.

BTW, in all honesty, good luck with your car. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
so i found the sensor and i found this funny. i went to detach the clip well connector and the sensor broke right off lol. now to the guy the swore it wasnt my sensor, you still think it wasnt the sensor that was messed up and causing my gauge to not work? :D
 

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I didn't say it was not the sender, all I said was:

pcordes1979 said:
Could also be an issue with the wiring or the sender, but most of the time when I've seen the gauge read dead cold unless it starts to overheat then it starts creeping up, it has been the physical gauge itself. - Peter
TBH I like being wrong sometimes, helps me learn things. I also like giving other possible solutions based on my own experiences. - Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I didn't say it was not the sender, all I said was:



TBH I like being wrong sometimes, helps me learn things. I also like giving other possible solutions based on my own experiences. - Peter
PETER you were WRONGGGGGGGG lol jk yeah but you were. we all learn something new on the forum but i finally changed it today and its back to normal. only paid like 5 for the sensor after coupon. its a 1 pin sensor.

p.s. i would have cried if peter was right :D
 

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It turns out that somebody else on the forum is having the same problem, but after he replaced the sender he still didn't have a temp reading, but when he shorted the connector to ground the gauge deflected all the way to H.

Personally on my car I ditched the cylinder head sender and went with the dual output sender that goes into the water pump so that both the PCM and the gauge show the same temperature. The info is found in this forum topic http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=250546 . - Peter
 
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