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Discussion Starter #1
My 94 5.7 Caprice had a non-functioning temperature gauge since I bought it. On Christmas day, my waterpump gave up the ghost at some point during a 45 minute drive home.

I replaced the pump and thermostat with new units. Since then I have been unable to bleed the cooling system.

After repeated attempts over 3 days using multiple techniques suggested on this forum, still no joy.

I began to wonder if perhaps I had blown a head gasket. I broke out my cheapo compression gauge. I checked cylinder 1 first. Perfect. Cylinder 3 showed 0 compression. Retested 3x, all 0. Retested cylinder 1 to be sure, tested good. Disgusted, I through the gauge on the bench and quit for the night.

The next morning, I tore into the motor, pulling the heads. I took the heads to a local machine shop to be checked. At first glance, he told me that they looked beautiful and asked me if I was sure the gauge was working properly. Long story short (ok, shorter), it wasn't. Heads advanced head gasket weren't the issue.

Wait nearly 2 weeks for all the parts to come in and reassemble.

SAME ISSUE! Flushed heater core (it was plugged), flushed entire cooling system including pulling the knock sensors. Refilled and spent hours trying to bleed.

No luck. Flushed the whole works again and installed a coolant filter, replaced overflow cap, drilled a 3/32 hole in the thermostat. Still won't bleed!

To recap, heater core inlet hose is cold. All other hoses hot. Air from the bleeder never fully goes away (I am elevating the front end). No heat in cabin. Car won't hold temperature. It goes straight past operating temperature to overheating.

PLEASE HELP!
 

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Your water pump probably isnt pumping.
Did you transfer the coupler from old pump to new?
Take front cover off water pump and check impeller,
If it spins freely, something is wrong with it.

Nab
 

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perhaps the coupler / WP js not rotating. I would get a bucket remove the ECT eng temp sensor to drain out the coolant after the rad drain .. then remove the cover see if its secure then start engine see if its rotating ..

when I do this WP job as I fill the coolant front end is up and I have plastic pressure tank cap off.. then with top radiator hose OFF @ radiator I add coolant into the hose .. then when its almost filled 75% I connect to the radiator..

when I do this , the heater is flushed every time ....remove hoses at the block not fire wall..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Water pump coupling is definitely connected. Heater core, radiator, and block were all: manually flushed (core from the pump, replaced t and restrictor while I was there), put all back together, chemically flushed, then manually flushed again. This has been done twice.

I have held off pulling the cover off the pump because I don't see that the gasket is available anywhere.
 

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I have held off pulling the cover off the pump because I don't see that the gasket is available anywhere.
The WP front cover uses a large O ring, not gasket. It is re-usable unless it breaks when you pull the cover. I did get one a dealership parts counter
 

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Thank you all for the help. After 100+ hours and 800$, my new DURALAST water pump impeller is not attached. Not a happy boy. Lesson learned.
 

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AutoZone strikes again? Could convert to an electric pump....
 

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Thank you all for the help. After 100+ hours and 800$, my new DURALAST water pump impeller is not attached. Not a happy boy. Lesson learned.
so what I did not mention I remove that cover on WP to be sure its properly fabricated in the impeller hidden area behind the cover.. debris etc..

should have asked us before you did all that work...

most likely a returned part by another customer ..
 

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As Balls wrote, the inspection cover O-rings are still available, as I got two last year.

You should definitely pull the cover and ensure that the impeller is turning. Ten years ago on my 9C1, the internal splines had SHEARED off on one side of the coupler, therefore the pump impeller was not turning, and it was the root cause of my overheating issue
 
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