I will try this again. Somehow the other post is blank and I cannot edit it.
I had a leaking radiator and took the opportunity to replace all of the cooling system, except the heater core and water pump. The pump was pretty new and I decided to roll the dice on the heater core. It may come back to bite me. Anyways, here are part numbers for a stock 1996 Impala SS. You will need to verify part numbers for a 9C1 or Caprice.
*Radiator- Aluminum - Liland Global 1517AA, Cold Case CHI579A, Be Cool 66065. Plastic- GM 52470705, AC Delco 20831, Spectra CU1517. I used the Liland and it fits and works great. You will need a 10 mm silicone cap and clamp if you use the Liland radiator because it has the '94 nipple on it.
*Radiator Hose, Upper- GM 10260864 (rubber), GM 10260863 (SEO), AC Delco 24314L, Gates 22116.
*Radiator Hose, Lower- GM 10237349 (rubber), GM 10197619 (SEO), AC Delco 26030X, Gates 20893.
*Recovery Tank- GM 10273298 (old), 12528777 (new).
*Recovery Tank Cap- GM 25713160, AC Delco RC87, Stant 10239.
*Heater Hose Assemblies: If you buy both of these assemblies, you will have 100% of the heater hoses covered.
*Valve Asm-Heater Water Flow Control (RA lists it as 'Heater Valve')- GM 10258504, AC Delco 15-5508. This is the front hose set with the failure-prone Tee and Restrictor Valve.
*Hose Asm-Heater Inlet and Outlet (RA does not carry this)- GM 10256543. This is the rear hose set with clamp and insulation.
*Knock Sensor- Pull the knock sensors to flush the crud out of your block. Trust me, it is full. Order (2) Standard Motor KS2.
*Thermostat- GM 12555290 (180 degrees). Mine is programmed for 160, so I used a Motorad 307-160.
*Thermostat Housing- GM 10108667.
*Heater Core- GM 52469251.
*Tools- Long reach pliers are a life saver, especially on the heater hoses. Mine came from Harbor Freight, part numbers 38595 & 37909. Always use a 20% off coupon when shopping at HF. Check the wrench size that you need for the knock sensors, I believe it is 22 mm. Get a wrench and a socket. You will need heater hose clamps if you don't want to use the ones that come with the assemblies and also some radiator hose clamps. Some pipe dope for the knock sensors. I ran radiator flush in it for a week, then flushed and backflushed the system until clear water came out. Check both fans for noise while you have them out. Put it all together, add coolant and distilled water, and burp the air out. Avoid getting water on the precious optispark. One forum member had a good idea to bleed air out of the radiator nipple before you plug it. Lastly, use a multimeter to check the cooling system for electrolysis. A procedure is here: http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechPages/pdf/Testing for Electrolysis.pdf HTH.
I had a leaking radiator and took the opportunity to replace all of the cooling system, except the heater core and water pump. The pump was pretty new and I decided to roll the dice on the heater core. It may come back to bite me. Anyways, here are part numbers for a stock 1996 Impala SS. You will need to verify part numbers for a 9C1 or Caprice.
*Radiator- Aluminum - Liland Global 1517AA, Cold Case CHI579A, Be Cool 66065. Plastic- GM 52470705, AC Delco 20831, Spectra CU1517. I used the Liland and it fits and works great. You will need a 10 mm silicone cap and clamp if you use the Liland radiator because it has the '94 nipple on it.
*Radiator Hose, Upper- GM 10260864 (rubber), GM 10260863 (SEO), AC Delco 24314L, Gates 22116.
*Radiator Hose, Lower- GM 10237349 (rubber), GM 10197619 (SEO), AC Delco 26030X, Gates 20893.
*Recovery Tank- GM 10273298 (old), 12528777 (new).
*Recovery Tank Cap- GM 25713160, AC Delco RC87, Stant 10239.
*Heater Hose Assemblies: If you buy both of these assemblies, you will have 100% of the heater hoses covered.
*Valve Asm-Heater Water Flow Control (RA lists it as 'Heater Valve')- GM 10258504, AC Delco 15-5508. This is the front hose set with the failure-prone Tee and Restrictor Valve.
*Hose Asm-Heater Inlet and Outlet (RA does not carry this)- GM 10256543. This is the rear hose set with clamp and insulation.
*Knock Sensor- Pull the knock sensors to flush the crud out of your block. Trust me, it is full. Order (2) Standard Motor KS2.
*Thermostat- GM 12555290 (180 degrees). Mine is programmed for 160, so I used a Motorad 307-160.
*Thermostat Housing- GM 10108667.
*Heater Core- GM 52469251.
*Tools- Long reach pliers are a life saver, especially on the heater hoses. Mine came from Harbor Freight, part numbers 38595 & 37909. Always use a 20% off coupon when shopping at HF. Check the wrench size that you need for the knock sensors, I believe it is 22 mm. Get a wrench and a socket. You will need heater hose clamps if you don't want to use the ones that come with the assemblies and also some radiator hose clamps. Some pipe dope for the knock sensors. I ran radiator flush in it for a week, then flushed and backflushed the system until clear water came out. Check both fans for noise while you have them out. Put it all together, add coolant and distilled water, and burp the air out. Avoid getting water on the precious optispark. One forum member had a good idea to bleed air out of the radiator nipple before you plug it. Lastly, use a multimeter to check the cooling system for electrolysis. A procedure is here: http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechPages/pdf/Testing for Electrolysis.pdf HTH.
